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Baselworld 2015: Louis Moinet Memoris

by Nick Gould on March 21, 2015

The chronograph is a complication that usually a secondary part of the watch.  The main vocal point is always the telling of the time.  For Baselworld 2015, Louis Moinet has literally made the chronograph the vocal point of the watch, with the time still appearing but in a much smaller window.  Introducing the Louis Moinet Memoris.

Each aspect of the chronograph’s action can be admired in its entirety, as soon as the mono pusher is pressed. The column wheel orchestrates the graceful ballet of the mechanism of steel and gears, passing information to the hands. The chronograph reigns in splendid isolation on the dial, leaving the beholder in no doubt that it is neither a skeleton nor an additional component: the all-new movement has been designed for the chronograph alone, and places it centre stage.

LM-54.50.80_FRONT_WHD

The Louis Moinet Memoris. The chronograph takes centre stage

The new caliber on Memoris is the LM54 created in collaboration with Concepto. With a rhythm of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), it has 302 components and provides a 48-hour power reserve. Over sixty parts have been designed and manufactured to allow the chronograph to be presented atop a dedicated movement plate, separating it from the automatic movement beneath.

LM-54.50.80_CASEBACK_WHD

The LM54 automatic movement

The watch still tells the time, the hours and minutes are located at the 6 o’clock position with blued hands.

The case size is 46 mm and will be available in pink gold or white gold, in three limited editions of just 60 pieces each.

Technical Specifications

Features and functions

Monopusher chronograph with column wheel

Chronograph mechanism visible on dial

Hours and Minutes (at 6 o’clock)

Seconds (at 9 o’clock)

60-second chronograph (central hand)

30-minute chronograph counter (at 3 o’clock)

 

Dial and hands

Chronograph hand, “Monogram” design

Hour & Minute “Gouttes de Rosée”® dew-drop hands, blue-tinted with luminous coating

Rounded lacquered dial, diamond cut bead

 

Movement and finish

Automatic click movement with chronograph function on dial; hours and minutes off-centre at 6 o’clock.

302-component LM54 caliber, designed and manufactured by Louis Moinet

Winding: Automatic, bi-directional

Oscillations: 28,800 vibrations per hour

Frequency: 4Hz

Balance wheel: Glucydur, chronometer quality

5 position settings

Lines: 13 ¼

Power reserve: 48 hours

Jewels: 34

Diameter: 30.40 mm

Height: 8.90 mm

Decoration: Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished facets, diamond-cut chamfers and circular gears with 5N colour finish and straight-line steel.

 

“Energie Plus” system

Pawl winding mechanism

Pawl winding system: comprises a baseplate and two jewelled pawls

‘Crab claw’ spring mechanism

Gearing: automatic wolf-teeth gear

Ball bearing: 7 Myrox balls (ceramic), diameter: 0.397 mm

Oscillating weight: Dual material, with concentric “Clous de Paris” and “Fleur-de-lis” pattern

 

Case and strap

Case: Original Louis Moinet®, composed of 52 pieces, design with two-part bezel and 6 screws, assembled at a 17° angle

Monopusher: “Clous de Paris” pattern

Material: 18K gold

Diameter: 46 mm

Thickness: 15.75 mm

Water resistance: 50 meters

Case back: Fitted with 7 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet symbols

Lugs: Screwed settings (1 black zircon jewel and 3 screws per lug)

Crystals: Two convex sapphire crystals with non-reflective coating on both faces

Crown protection: Patent pending

Distance between lugs: 24 mm

Strap: Hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather with alligator lining

Buckle: 18K gold folding clasp with “Fleur-de-lis” motif, two-strand, black DLC-treated steel

 

Presentation box

Louis Moinet book

 

Limited editions

LM-54.50.80                   60 watches                    5N 18K rose gold

LM-54.70.80                   60 watches                  PD150 18K white gold – rhodium-plated mainplate

LM-54.71.80                   60 watches                  PD150 18K white gold – blued mainplate

 

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