Let’s be frank: 2020 hasn’t been a great year for most of us. It hasn’t been great for the watchmaking industry either, what with event cancellations and declining sales performances. And yet, the industry perseveres. There appears to be no shortage of spectacular timepieces released in spite of the challenges the year has brought us. As is tradition here at Deployant, we’ve come together in this time of festivity to share with you our horological Christmas wishlist, featuring watches that we love from the current year. The watches that are on my list here are ones that strike a chord with me and ones that I would love to find on my wrist.
Santa, if you’re reading this, you know where I live.
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 with Blue Enamel
The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 is anything but novel, but this year it comes with a luscious blue enamel – and what a world of difference some colour pigments make. There’s nothing wrong with white enamel but this timepiece with a blue enamel dial is a match made in heaven. It is thoroughly bewitching. What really seals the deal is the use of powdered silver to print the Breguet numerals and minute track; this gives them a lovely, grainy texture. The fact that the watch is rendered in noble platinum and features a large-ish, off-set tourbillon just makes the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 extra special.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic
Another year, another Christmas Wishlist featuring H. Moser & Cie.. I wouldn’t exactly call myself a Moser enthusiast but for some odd reason, the brand’s timepieces always manages to sneak into my list. This year, the honour goes to the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic with it’s unique design. There’s so much to love: the fluid lines on the bracelet, the bullhead design, the brown fumé dial, the chronograph track, the hands, and of course, that movement. Powering the watch is none other than the paradigm-shifting HMC 902, made by Agenhor, but significantly modified for Moser. Sure, it’s not an in-house movement, but Moser was wise enough to select one of the absolute best chronograph movements in the current market to drive its equally special timepiece. And that is something I can respect.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold
To absolutely no one’s surprise, the final timepiece I have in my wishlist is an A. Lange & Söhne; I am a fan of the brand (along with so many others), after all. This year, Lange is celebrating its 175th birthday, and to mark this special occasion, the brand has introduced three celebratory timepieces in honey gold – one of these timepieces is the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold. The 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold is arguably the most beautiful watch released by Lange (or any manufacturer) this year. The aesthetics are impeccable, and the design oh-so balanced. It’s amazing how well honey gold complements a black dial. It’s even more amazing how removing the perpetual calendar displays from the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar resulted in a better looking timepiece. The dial has just enough going on that it is simultaneously interesting and not too cluttered.
And of course, if you turn the watch over to its back, you will find a ridiculously well-finished movement. Beyond the usual Lange fare of hand-engraved balance cocks, gold chatons, and flame-blued screws, in this special edition watch, the German silver plates and bridges are given a gorgeous, frosted finish.
Put everything together and you have a watch that is perfection, if perfection ever was possible.
Review of the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold is coming soon!
Three watches from three brands named after three men whose contributions make mechanical watchmaking what it is today. I can’t say that these are very original picks as I’m sure many others share my adoration for these particular watches. What I can say, though, is that I’m glad they exist, because they truly are works of art revealing the full glory of haute horology. Now if Santa pulls through, I’ll be the lucky owner of all three magnificent watches on Christmas day. And if not, well, I guess not even Father Christmas gets a free pass from travel restrictions and mandatory quarantine.
With that, Merry Christmas everybody.