We just received this Press Release from Audemars Piguet and are quite excited to share this news with you. AP is re-inventing their past and created this new chronograph which they call the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph. Details here.
Press Release with some commentary
Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph
Audemars Piguet’s newly crafted selfwinding chronograph brings the aesthetics of the past into the present. Like a remastered recording from the 1940s, the [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph reinterprets one of AP’s rare chronograph wristwatches with the Manufacture’s latest technology and a dial design increasing legibility for the present day.
AP’s vintage chronograph wristwatches are among the rarest in the world with only 307 units made between the 1930s through the 1950s. Here is an example we found from the Phillips Catalog of 2015.
This first remastering project brings forward the Manufacture’s creativity during the tumultuous and transitional World War II era. This limited edition of 500 pieces evokes the highly distinct design attributes of the original chronograph wristwatch from 1943, with its two-tone steel and pink gold case enhanced with a champagne dial.
The case, dial and hands
By uniting mid-20th century design with contemporary horological technology, [Re]master01 speaks directly to the blend of heritage and forward thinking which continues to infuse AP’s timepieces.
Faithful to the original design language of pre-model 1533 from 1943, [Re]master01 features a round case and lugs in stainless steel, enhanced by a bezel, oliveshaped pushers and chamfered crown in 18-carat pink gold. The teardrops lugs highlight the two-tone case’s harmonious curve, while the very thin bezel provides unobstructed view on the dial’s detailed work. The case has been meticulously polished by hand.
The case’s two-tone polished aesthetics is complemented by a satin-brushed gold-toned dial enriched with black transferred hour-markers, pink gold hour, minute and seconds hands, blue chronograph hands and a blue transferred tachymetric scale. Although the dial design has retained the original timepiece’s classic features and Art Deco-inspired numerals, the watch’s enlarged 40 mm diameter ensures better legibility fit for a contemporary use.
Similarly to the 1943 wristwatch, [Re]master01 features the signature “Audemars Piguet & Co Genève” on the dial. From around 1885 to the mid1970s, AP had a workshop in Geneva to be closer to end clients and facilitate distribution within Europe and beyond. When APstarted to sign its watches in the early 20th century, the city of Geneva was frequently mentioned on the dial.
The chronograph counters have also been rearranged for improved readability. Yet, [Re]master01 has subtly kept the original watch’s 4/5 indication above the 15 minutes mark inside the 30-minutes counter at 9 o’clock to allow the wearer to record up to 45 minutes. This indication was requested by the firm’s third-generation family-founder Jacques-Louis Audemars (1910 – 2003) to satisfy his taste for soccer and indicate his favourite sport’s half time.
The light brown hand-stitched calfskin strap adds an elegant touch and the watch also comes with an additional dark brown alligator strap.
Bringing the past into the present, [Re]master01 is equipped with the Manufacture’s newest generation of selfwinding chronograph mechanism: an integrated chronograph with column wheel and flyback function.
Contrary to the original wristwatch of 1943, [Re]master01 features a glare proof sapphire crystal case back which reveals the beauty of the chronograph mechanism and the dedicated 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight matching the bezel. The oscillating weight is satin-brushed and decorated with Clous de Paris — a traditional decoration technique used since the 1950s at AP.
Every Audemars Piguet watch was unique until 1951. The Manufacture’s vintage chronograph wristwatches are among the rarest in the world today. This ultimate sports function started to equip Audemars Piguet’s wristwatches in the 1930s at a time when the measure of performance had become an integrant part of society. During World War II (1939–1945), when premodel 1533 was crafted, chronograph wristwatches accounted for just under one-tenth of the company’s total watch production.
Only three stainless steel and gold chronograph wristwatches with the present case design were sold in 1943. The watch’s 36 mm diameter was quite large for the era when most chronograph wristwatches used to measure between 31 and 34 mm.
The [Re]master 01 looks remarkably refreshing for a design which is more than 80 years old, and frankly we have fallen in love with just seeing the images of this watch. We also find this return to the basics and re-mastering their early achievements to be quite remarkable for Audemars Piguet. We are also very happy to see AP revisiting the past, and digging into their archives for inspiration, and not over-depend on the Royal Oak collection. We are looking forward to seeing and photographing this watch in the metal.
[Re]master01 Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 40 mm Technical Specifications
FUNCTIONS Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes and small seconds.
CASE Stainless steel case and lugs, 18-carat pink gold bezel, crown and pushpieces, glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 20 m.
DIAL Yellow gold-toned dial, blue tachymetric scale, pink gold hour, minute and seconds hands, blue chronograph hands.
STRAP Hand-stitched light brown calfskin strap with stainless steel pin buckle. Additional brown alligator strap.
MOVEMENT SPECIFICATION Selfwinding Manufacture calibre 4409 Diameter 32mm * Thickness 6.82mm * Number of parts 349 * Number of jewels 40 * Minimal power reserve guaranteed 70 hours * Frequency of balance wheel 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)