Jaquet Droz Grande Second World Timer
4 versions, retail prices with GST
red gold with black enamel dial, S$43,000
red gold with an ivory enamel dial, S$43,000
SS with a silver opaline dial, S$26,000
SS with a black onyx dial, S$28,000
Jaquet Droz Grande Second Dual Time
The Jaquet Droz Grande Second Dual time is the result of refinements and evolution of the iconic Grande Seconde range. Travel is of particular significance for the heritage of the brand, as the founder Pierre Jaquet Droz himself was a great traveler in his day.
Four versions are available, two in Stainless Steel and two in Red Gold. The SS version is offered in either a silver dial as featured in this article, and a black onyx dial. And the red gold versions are in grand feu enamel of either ivory or black.
The case, dial and hands
The case used in the Grande Second Dual Time is the classical Jaquet Droz case in a diameter of 43mm. This is a very elegant case, even if it is rather large at 43mm. The lines are aesthetically very pleasing and the shape of the case, bezel, and lugs form a harmonious whole. The entire ensemble carries an high end ambience typical of Jaquet Droz.
In our review sample, the dial is a silvery opaline with a very fine grain structure. The hour sub-dial is sunken and carries the markers as Roman numerals with a minute railway track. The markers are applied by transfer printing.
The grand seconds hand is mounted on huge sub-dial which is also sunken from the main dial and drops to the seconds hand railway track marked in increments of 10 seconds. A second smaller step drips to the date marker ring, with numerals for the odd dates, and dots for the even. 31 is marked by a red inverted triangle. And in the center of this grand seconds sub-dial is an opening which is round and shows the rotating map of the world providing the world time.
This disc is slightly domed and polished. And carries a projection map of the continents as seen flat from the North Pole in an azimuthal projection. The method of manufacturing the sub-dial is interesting. The disc is given a black coat by a galvanic treatment. And the continents, which are depicted in a mirror finish are applied on the disc by a decal. The decals carry the hue in a form of powdered red gold or silver color which gives the texture slightly in relief to the continents.
The movement: Jaquet Droz caliber 2663H24
The Jaquet Droz caliber 2663H24 is a self-winding mechanical caliber with silicon balance spring and pallet lugs. The movement is sourced from Jaquet Droz sister company Blancpain. Visible from the back sapphire glass, the movement shows a large rotor with nicelywhich is pierced and appropriately anglaged. The rotor drives a double barrel system with flat bridges with a sunburst style fausse côtes design.
Movement finishing is at a high level. Jaquet Droz movements are co-developed with Blancpain. Both teams work very closely together and the movements are made specifically only for Jaquet Droz. The movements and timepieces are assembled in the Jaquet Droz Ateliers of Haute Horlogerie.
The landscape of dual timezone watches are heavily peppered with many candidates. At S$26,000 for the version in SS with the silver opaline dial, it is not inexpensive, but not out of the norm compared to the other high end dual time watches. We single out the three most similar to the Jaquet Droz – in terms of similarity in prices, and only focus on those which start out with an artistic intent and left out those which have a technical bent.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time which comes in a stainless steel version goes at S$21,900. The JLC is equipped with a very advanced escapement system and features a seconde morte mechanism while providing dual timezones simultaneously. Legibility is good and clear, and the world map engraved on the dial is aesthetically appealing as well.
The Lange Saxonia Dual Time is another candidate. Though only available in pink gold at € 27,100 (about S$41,000)- which is in a similar ball park as the red gold JD version. The Saxonia design is more sober with perhaps a less artistic take as it does not have a graphical display of the world map on the dial, but a very practical double hour hand approach.
And the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time is another candidate. In stainless steel, the VC is S$41,000, and might be seen as on the expensive side. But it is one of the flag bearers of the genre of luxury sports watches, and seen in that field amongst the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the pricing concerns are somewhat equalized.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Dual Time at S$46,600 in Stainless Steel is perhaps another consideration. But the stainless steel Pateks are getting notoriously difficult to buy, so we leave it out of serious consideration.
As we reflect over the Jaquet Droz Grande Second Dual Time and consider its handsome good looks. We ponder over its classy disposition, the artisanal quality of the design, the excellence in the execution and build quality coupled with the nice movement. And draw a conclusion that this is indeed a very practical watch for the traveler, providing a useful complication which is discreet but yet with some measure of pizzazz.
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time Specifications
Dial: Silver opaline dial. Reference time disc with anthracite treatment and silver coloured world map.
Case: Stainless steel case. 43mm diameter 13.3mm height. Water resistance 30m.
Functions: Local hours and minutes indicators at 12 o’clock. Reference time disc and pointer-type date display at 6 o’clock. Reference time disc with anthracite treatment and silver coloured world map.
Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement. Power reserve of 65 hours. 42 jewels. 28,800 bph.