Armchair Picks: Robin’s 3 of the best new watches from WWG24

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The past week might have just gone by like a whirlwind, but it had certainly left a deep impression on the horological scene with some incredible watches.

As usual, the team will take a step back to consider all the novelties over the course of the week and decide on our top 3 favourite timepieces from the exhibition. There were some excellent watches, although there were some manufacturers that had fallen short as well. Nonetheless, it was still not an easy task to distill the barrage of novelties to just a selection of three timepieces.

However, after some serious deliberation, I have come to a conclusion. Now, without any further ado, here are my top 3 picks from Watches & Wonders 2024.

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

The first watch on my list is the sublime IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This is the kind of timepiece that I am personally yearning to see, and not some rehashing of existing timepieces with another material or dial colour.

There is no dispute that IWC is known for its perpetual calendar complication. After all, it is known for some of the most complicated watches that feature the perpetual calendar, such as Il Destriero Scafusia. The Eternal Calendar took a step further, with a secular perpetual calendar that is accurate for at least 400 years. In addition, it also features an impressive moon phase display with an accuracy of 45 million years. Talk about technological ingenuity.

The 44mm watch is also quite a looker. I like how IWC had use glasses for the dial and subdials, which creates a rather nice visual effect (and a rather unique take). Overall, the watch has both the looks and substance, and this is – in my opinion – easily one of the best novelties in this year’s Watches & Wonders.

Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir

Cartier had produced many stunning pieces over the years, and the Tortue Monopoussoir is certainly one of the best watches from the marque’s repertoire.

The Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir is such a well-designed timepiece. The dial features a bi-compax layout, as well as a monopusher crown, which gives the timepiece a rather clean and elegant aesthetic. We also like how Cartier had managed to incorporate a circular dial face, with a barrel-shaped case. In addition, the movement – Calibre 1928MC – is quite a looker as well.

Overall, the new Tortue Monopoussoir is an excellent timepiece – and one that is fit enough to pay homage to the original iteration that was launched in 1928. There is an adage that goes along the line of “if it ain’t broken, don’t fix it”, and you can certainly say that Cartier had heeded the mantra well with the new Tortue Monopoussoir.

Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde

Last but not least, I have the Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde.

Parmigiani is a brand that I have always loved. I like how the brand has constantly created beautiful watches and movements, and how it is often under the radar (perhaps, not a good thing from a marketing and brand’s perspective). The new Toric Petite Seconde continues to live up to the brand’s ethos, with a stunning (yet simple) design and an equally magnificent movement to boot. I also like how the brand has incorporated its signature coin-edge bezel, as well as a new textured dial that features the grené main treatment. Simple, subtle, and yet so stunning. This is typical of Parmigiani’s works.

The 40.6mm timepiece comes with a relatively hefty price tag – CHF 45,000 (or, approximately S$67,000). While it is made of precious metal, many may argue that it is quite a princely sum for a time-only watch. My brain certainly agrees, but then, my heart says otherwise. And I definitely find it hard to argue against that.

Honourable Mentions

There are also a few watches that I reckon are worth a mention.

The new Franck Muller Long Island Evolution (picture courtesy of Franck Muller) may not be to everyone’s taste, but I like the concept and how contemporary the whole timepiece looks. The Master Jumper, in particular, is a fascinating watch – and it is something that is very different from what the brand is offering. I definitely appreciate Franck Muller for taking this bold step, with a watch that is admittedly quite nicely executed. I am looking forward to seeing this watch in person, for sure.

The new NOMOS Tangente 38 Date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte (picture above courtesy of NOMOS Watch Club) is another winner in my opinion. NOMOS had created 31 colourways for this limited-edition timepiece, which I think is extremely well-thought and conceptualised beautifully. A very cool idea for a limited-edition timepiece indeed.

Concluding Thoughts

There were certainly two tales in this year’s Watches & Wonders. Some brands have made a strong statement, while others have not impressed as much. What are your thoughts? Do let us know, and do share with us your top 3 picks from Watches & Wonders 2024 as well.


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