H. Moser pays tribute to its best of breed perpetual calendar with a new model in the classic rounded case of the Heritage collection. Introducing the H. Moser Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel. The new watch has a grand feu enamel dial in a midnight blue with a dégradé effect re-interpreting the brand’s famous fumé dials.
Press Release information with commentary in italics
The Moser Perpetual Calendar is perhaps one of the best perpetual calendars in the market. Created by Andreas Strehler in 2006, it sets new levels of elegance with an ease of use that belies the complexity of the movement within.
We have covered the Perpetual Calendar several times, but perhaps our most complete discussion of the class leading movement is found in our Comprehensive Review of the Moser Perpetual Calendar. We also covered the first release of the perpetual in the Heritage collection in 2016 as the Moser Heritage Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition. The 2016 had a white grand feu enamel dial, with an extremely elaborate case measuring some 46mm in 5N red gold. The case features blue “cloisonné” enameling, guilloché, engraving and gem setting techniques on both its front and back cover. It was limited to 10 pieces. The new model has a simpler case, though still featuring enamel “cloisonné” on the case sides, the case is smaller at a more wearable 42mm, and does not feature guilloché, engraving or gem setting on the absent hunter case front and back covers.
The new watch is driven by the caliber HMC 800, which is a derivative of the HMC 341 which has been fitted since launch. The HMC 800 is a result of progressively updating the original Strehler designed HMC 341 movement. Many parts have been modified to improve reliability and ease of assembly. Out of the 326 parts in the HMC 341, over 80 have been modified. Mostly tweaks like the tension of springs, tolerances, etc. But the modification is extensive enough that parts for the former does not fit the latter, hence requiring a new caliber number. The modifications have also led to a reduction of the assembly time for the HMC 800 from the 90 hours needed to assemble the HMC 341 to just 30 hours.
The movement retains the class leading ultra clean perpetual calendar display on the dial. All the essential elements are present and accounted for. The day (huge date display with Flash Calendar), the month and power reserve together with the hour, minutes and seconds are shown. The leap year information, not essential for daily use is only seen from the back, as it is only used for setting the calendar. For details on the Flash Calendar, the ease of forwards and backwards adjustment of the calendar, as well as technical features of the movement, please refer to our detailed discussion on the Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar. The discussion is on the HM 341, but all the features remain the same. A comparative review of the best perpetual calendars, of which the Moser is one, may also be of interest for more information.
From the high resolution photographs we received, the watch looks magnificently beautiful. And considering the sub CHF 100k pricing point, we think it is intelligently priced, though for a limited edition of only 20 pieces, we have no doubt all will be spoken for in double quick time. We have asked the Moser team for a handling and photography session when the watch arrives in Singapore. And will report back when we do with our fuller hands-on review.
H. Moser Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel
Retail price is SGD 165,000 with GST / CHF 99,000.
In creating the Heritage line, H. Moser & Cie. took inspiration from the watches that evoke the brand’s history from 1828 to the present day, and specifically those dating from the early 20th century. The distinctive classicism of the Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel is evident not only in its rounded case, but also in the notched crown and Grand Feu enamel dial, brought to life by the Roman numerals and the swallow-tail hands.
Every aspect of this exceptional piece has been created to exude elegance and refinement, with details such as the fine lugs and a railroad minute track enhancing its traditional character. And, because tradition at H. Moser & Cie. never means dull or fusty, behind the classic façade of this watch lies an emphatically irreverent aesthetic, as revealed by the Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel’s deep blue dial, which brings the entire design to life.
Visible behind the sapphire case-back, the HMC 800 movement is the driving force behind the Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel. A masterpiece of simplicity and ingenuity, this hand-wound manufacture calibre, which uses the indices to indicate the months, can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day. Thanks to the “Flash Calendar” system, the date changes instantaneously at midnight, taking into account months with 30 or 31 days and the leap years. Decorated with the famous Moser double stripes, the calibre HMC 800 features a double barrel for a guaranteed power reserve of 7 days.
The Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel is an Haute Horlogerie piece that draws from a broader palette. It is a traditional yet timeless model, which blurs boundaries and is impossible to sum up in a single word. It is available in a limited edition of 20 pieces.
H. Moser & Cie.’s own and unique take on Haute Horlogerie.
H. Moser Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel Specifications
Reference 8800-0203, 18-carat white gold model, Midnight Blue fumé enamel dial, blue alligator leather strap, limited edition of 20 pieces
18K white gold
Blue enamel inserts on the case sides, engraving
Diameter: 42.0 mm
Height: 12,6 mm / 10,8 mm without sapphire crystal
See-through sapphire crystal case back
Crown adorned with an “M”
Midnight Blue fumé Grand Feu enamel
HMC 800 hand-wound calibre
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes
Height: 6.3 mm
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
Power reserve: minimum 7 days
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann® hairspring
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold
Movement and components hand-finished and decorated
Hours and minutes
Perpetual calendar with date and month
Big date display
Month indicator via central hand
Power reserve indicator
Leap year cycle indicator on movement side
Hand-stitched midnight blue alligator leather
18K white gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo