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Review: Tutima Patria Admiral Blue SS

graceful elegance - german style
by Peter Chong on July 18, 2019
Overview
Brand

Tutima Patria Admiral Blue Stainless Steel

Complication / Type of Watch

Time only three handed watch
Cold enamel dial

Recommended Retail Price

€ 4,900 incl German VAT

Though the buzz this 2019 from Baselworld from Tutima seems to be the new Flieger line, we were quite excited with the extension of the Patria line with a new stainless steel model in a stately Admiral Blue cold enamel dial. Here is our hands on, in-depth review.

The new stainless steel Patria is released in the Admiral blue cold enamel, which we review here, and also in a grey version.

Tutima Patria Admiral Blue 6610-01

The Patria collection is Tutima’s idea of a discreet, elegant, gentleman’s watch. And the sleek, lines of the case and dial design achieves this with good result.

The case, dial and hands

The Patria Admiral Blue case is a classical round shape, measuring 43mm in diameter, with a thickness of 11.2mm. The round case is fitted with a sleep, curvaceous crown guard, rising from the case side to form two horn like structures to protect the onion shaped crown from careless knocking.

The dial is rather magnificent. The base dial is a magnificent blue hue, quite dark, but at certain angles to the light, can appear to be lighter, but somewhat sober. The beauty of the dial lies in the layer by layer application enamel, each successively polished before the next is applied to form a deep luster which seem to emanate from within.

The design calls for beautifully faceted and polished applied indices in stainless steel and a pair of in-house made stainless steel hands in a beautiful mirror polish. The shape of the hands are somewhat reminiscent of those found in the house made hands of Moritz Grossmann.

The dial also carries the Tutima logo and nomenclature in transfer print enamel, as well as the same white print for the seconds indices on the subsidiary seconds hand sub-dial.

The movement: Caliber 617

The movement is rather interesting. Not only is finished in a subtle rose gold hue, by gold plating, but the Caliber 617 is a derivative of the Caliber 800 which propelled the Tutima name into the strastophere with their Homage Minute Repeater being the first German made minute repeater ever. The Caliber 800 was stripped off its extraneous complication, and what remained had a redesigned and reworked traditional three quarter plate, but with the base train, including the escapement the same.

The caliber 671 can be seen as a stripped down caliber 800, which was designed, developed and made in-house by Master Watchmaker Rolf Lang. [yes, Rolf is the father of Marco Lang, formerly of Lang & Heyne.

The elaborately designed and beautiful click from the caliber 800 is retained on the flying barrel. Its sensuous form, and mirror finish lending an air of class to the movement side. Also kept is the beautiful gold chatons secured by mirror polished screw heads, the Glashütte ribbing, and the skeletonized balance cock. The anglage applied to the edges of the plate and cock is immaculately executed.

The balance is a screw balance with weighted screws and 4 regulating screws in slotted, threaded holes, and is an index-free oscillating system with Breguet hairspring.

The balance beats at 21,600 bph with a power reserve of 65 hours. The view from the sapphire case back is one which reeks of elegance with a stately but discreet air.

The Competitive Landscape

At a rather reasonable price of only € 4,900 incl German VAT, the Patria Admiral Blue will gain many admirers. At this price level, it competes with the best in the industry, with names like Jaeger-LeCoultre as well as smaller independents the likes of the Seiko Pressage series.

A direct comparison is perhaps the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date which retails for US$5700, a bit more than the Tutima.

The JLC adds a date, but lacks the cold enamel worked dial which is the Tutimas calling card.

Another competitor might be the Seiko Presage Enamel also in an enamel dial.

The Seiko Presage Automatic with Shippo dial. The Shippo dial is in an translucent enamel over guilloche pattern. This model is the SPB075 and retails for US$ 1,400.

The Japanese are able to deliver the enamel dialed watches at a considerably lower price point, an example is the Multi-Hand Automatic, priced €1,300. Design wise, the Tutima is more classical, and stately.

Concluding Thoughts

The Tutima Patria Admiral Blue is an excellent and successful attempt by Tutima to enter the graceful elegance of the gentleman’s realm. It is subtle, understated, and yet carries an air of class and serenity so often associated with the upper crust of the German gentry.

A happy medium of a superbly designed and built watch with a modest price. What more can we ask for?

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