Also debuting in JeweLuxe this year is the young duo of Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. The watch presented is a jumping second of their own development with Dominique Renaud, and is presented at the show.
Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat grew up together at the watchmaking school of Geneva. Their careers took them to Glashütte where they worked at A. Lange & Söhne assembling watches from the chronographs to perpetual calendars. Gaël spent 3 years in Lange, and Florian 2, and both shared an apartment in Glashütte. They then set up their own workshop at Renes and worked on servcing and restoring vintage watches in 2017.
In 2017, Dominique Renaud asked them to help decorate his DR-01 project. This was a ground breaking movement which covered in technical detail here. They were also commissioned to build one non-functional watch. What was interesting, and impressive is that their thirst for knowledge and savoir faire was so high that they did not ask for monetary compensation, but to trade for being mentored by Dominique. Thus they worked with Dominique to develop the in-house dead-beat caliber 171 which they are showing at JeweLuxe.
The Petermann Bédat watch – Seconde Morte
The movement was co-developed with Dominique Renaud, the 30mm caliber is regulated by a large “Breguet-style” balance wheel, and an impressive designed dead-beat ancre. The movement is constructed from untreated German Silver, a nod to their time in Lange, and admiration for the watches.
Gaël told me that they have only two working watches at the moment, and one of which was finished just the day before leaving for this trip to Singapore.
The watch is encased in a round case, and is priced at CHF 60,000 before taxes, regardless of case material. They offer bronze, steel, and gold. The case is 39mm in diamter and 10.7mm thick. On the wrist it feels comfortable.
Entirely decorated by hand, the plate & bridges display different kind of finishing on both sides: inward beveling, black-mirror polish on steel parts, Côtes de Genève, Sunray & Circular graining. The dial is multilayered sand-blasted.
We are making plans to visit Petermann Bédat at their atelier next month in Renes, and will bring you a full report of the facilities and a full hands-on review of the watch.