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Review: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Star of Infinity

by Peter Chong on October 6, 2015

Roger Dubuis remains quite an enigma in the world of haute horlogerie. Her products range from the incredulous to the truly spectacular. We have featured some of them here, here and here. And to build on the extravagance of many of their creations, we bring you the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Star of Infinity.

 

Roger Dubuis: Controversial Brand? or Agent Provocateur?

 

The brand was born out of the hands of the respected genius of Mr. Roger Dubuis. And have had a rather turbulent history seeing its ownership wrestled from Mr. Dubuis, and falling into the hands of the colourful and unstoppable Carlos Dias. It was then taken over by Richemont Luxury, and Georges Kern was immediately put in charge as caretaker CEO in October 2010. Richemont then appointed the current CEO, Jean-Marc Pontroué in 2011, and as observers, we must say that we are liking the progress. The catchphrase of being provocative, bold and over the top applies in spades.

 

Roger Dubuis Star of Infinity

Roger Dubuis Star of Infinity

 

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Star of Infinity

 

The spectacular, and horologically interesting double tourbillon evolved once again. I photographed the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon for Revolution Magazine and showed the off-take photographs here. To that already incredible base, Roger Dubuis now adds some brilliants.

The star shaped bridge, is made more obvious by encrusting it with magnificent diamonds (34 diamonds on the star), and the other bridges are made rhodium black to allow the star to shine even brighter. The way the diamonds are worked into the design is very artful and aesthetically pleasing. A total of 312 diamonds weing a total of 15 carats are added.

We are rather impressed with how Roger Dubuis inserted the brilliants. This is the new way of inserting diamonds into a watch, increasing its value, rather than the more traditional way of merely encrusting the case, bezel with baguette diamonds or creating a pave dial. Magnificent. This effect is definitely observable, even on the photographs.

 

The Roger Dubuis Star of Infinity. The jewel setting is very fine, and a huge number of carats lavished on a double tourbillon makes this a very extravagant, over the top bold watch. Catch phrases which Roger Dubuis use to describe herself.

The Roger Dubuis Star of Infinity. The jewel setting is very fine, and a huge number of carats lavished on a double tourbillon makes this a very extravagant, over the top bold watch. Catch phrases which Roger Dubuis use to describe herself.

A wallpaper sized image (1920pixels x 1200pixels) is available by clicking here. In so doing you agree to a zero cost license to use on the conditions that the use is limited only to non-profit, non-commercial personal purposes, and that you agree not to modify the image in any way.

 

The movement is the the RD01SQ, which is based on Roger Dubuis’s flagship Excalibur Double Tourbillon, and features a hand wound skeletonized movement with double tourbillons. The tourbillons both make 1 revolution every minute, and do so in the same direction. The stylized cage, showing the signature RD shape is magnificently black polished, and is mesmerising to the observer as it spins.

 

The double tourbillons. Mesmerising. And nicely finished.

The double tourbillons. Mesmerising. And nicely finished.

 

As with all Roger Dubuis offerings the Excalibur Star of Infinity is finished to Poinçon de Genève levels, and is accorded the seal.

The Excalibur case measures some 45mm in diameter and features the signature notched bezel and triple lugs. The watch sits quite comfortably on the wrist.

 

On the wrist, the watch commands a great presence with its diamonds, but equally important is that it sits well on the wrist, and is comfortable.

On the wrist, the watch commands a great presence with its diamonds, but equally important is that it sits well on the wrist, and is comfortable.

 

Further thoughts

 

Diamond encrusted watches are a dime a dozen…well, actually usually a million bucks a pop. The taste for high bling watches have subsided quite a bit. After the Russians’s fascination, and recently with the increasing affluence and sophistication of the Chinese collector, they are becoming rather passé. But we think this Roger Dubuis Excalibur Star of Infinity breaks that mould of the generic diamond watch. It injects some artful thinking into the design. Adorn the signature star on the bridge with diamonds, darken the other bridges to allow the star to shine. And make up the bezel and case sides with more diamonds. And add the extravagance on an already highly specified and technical skeletonized Double Tourbillon movement.

And the catch phrases bold, over the top, provocative comes into focus once again. Even though this veteran author normally is not attracted to bejewelled watches, we must say he is at least intrigued. So Roger Dubuis: Agent Provocateur succeded! Touché!!.

Pricing is at an equally bold and provocative, over top S$1.09 million, it is available as a limited edition of 28 pieces.

 

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Star of Infinity Specifications

 

Case, 45 mm, white gold, fully paved with baguette cut diamonds, 15.50mm thick;

Dial, openworked, flange and star set with baguette cut diamonds.

Total carat weight, 14.93 carats total.

Movement, caliber RD015SQ, hand wound, double tourbillon (both rotating once per minute). 16¾ lignes in diameter, 28 jewels, 50 hour power reserve.

 

 

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