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Review: H.Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition

by  on February 12, 2016
Overview
Brand

H.Moser & Cie.

Complication / Type of Watch

Perpetual Calendar, with Power Reserve Indicator. Manual winding, and featuring a hunter case on both the front and back.

Recommended Retail Price

250,000 CHF

Positives

Great attention to detail. Wonderful aesthetics, coupled with amazing finishing techniques. And a stunning enamel dial to die for. Magnificent Métiers d'Art style work.

Negatives

It is a little too bulky with covers for both front and back.

Some may also find it a bit flashy for daily use.

Price is also quite high.

Rating
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Concept & Originality
Movement
Overall Finishing
Price Performance / Value
Future Outlook
Bottom Line

A very nice watch, in terms of aesthetics and finishing.

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When H.Moser & Cie. launched the Perpetual 1 in 2005, it took the entire horological community by surprise. Never had the industry seen a Perpetual Calendar that is so revolutionary and simplified, with such clarity and legibility. It was not difficult to see why they were awarded the “Complication Category” in Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2006 subsequently. To commemorate the 10th Anniversary of the creation of this masterpiece, H.Moser & Cie, had decided to produce a limited edition version of the perpetual calendar. But this one is different from the usual Perpetual 1 or the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar. Instead of toying around with a different dial or a case material, H.Moser & Cie. had decided to dip into its historical archives to find inspiration, which leads us to the enchanting Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition.

 

The H.Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition.

The H.Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition. In the background is a pocket watch from H.Moser & Cie.’s archives which the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is based on.

 

For some readers, you might not know about the history of H.Moser & Cie. The company was formed and founded in 1828 at St. Petersburg, and relocated to Le Locle subsequently. However, during the “Quartz Crisis”, H.Moser & Cie. was badly affected. In 1979, they were bought by the Dixi Mechanique Group. But remain dormant until it was revived again in 2005. And a legend was born.

 

The H.Moser & Cie. pocket watch that the new Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is based on.

The H.Moser & Cie. pocket watch that the new Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is based on.

 

Now, let us get back to this magnificent timepiece. This watch, as seen from the picture above, features a rather ornamental and elaborate case. It is inspired by the pocket watches that H.Moser & Cie. had produced. The 46mm 5N red gold case features blue “cloisonné” enameling, guilloché, engraving and gem setting techniques on both its front and back cover. The attention to detail is superb, and the case is a work of art.

 

And when the front cover is open, you will be greeted by the beautiful enamel dial on this timepiece.

And when the front cover is open, you will be greeted by the beautiful enamel dial on this timepiece.

 

And if you think the case is amazing, then you should wait till you pop open the front cover. When you press the button coaxial to the crown of the watch, the front cover will unlock, flip open and reveal the gorgeous white enamel dial. The enamel dial is simply stunning. Alluring. It is very pure aesthetic and executed perfectly. The vintage case design and the wire lugs adds to the attractiveness and instantly seduces.

Despite being a perpetual calendar, the dial is simple. Clear, and legible. Regular perpetual calendars often have their dials cluttered with the sheer amount of information it attempts to display, sometimes defeating the purpose. The dial becomes so full of hands, apertures and whatnot that legibility is questionable. But not the Moser. At first glance, one might be forgiven if one thinks it only has a date and a power reserve indicator. But on closer examination, a small hand, almost hidden under the hour and minute hands show the month. The large date shows the correct date all the time, including leap years. The leap year indicator itself is found at the back on the movement, as it is only used for setting the year, it is relegated to a location which is convenient, but yet does not add clutter to the dial. The result: the dial of a perpetual calendar which is the paragon of clarity and legibility. Brilliant!

The watch is powered by their HMC 341 movement. It features a twin barrel system, which allows the timepiece to have an impressive power reserve of approximately 7 days. Other notable highlights include the perpetual calendar complication, the “flash calendar” function, as well as a power reserve indicator at the 9 o’clock position of the timepiece. The movement, we reckon, is finished rather beautifully. For this particular watch, the movement is even made from 18k solid gold, and it is additionally set with two diamond end-stones.

 

A closer look at the flawless enamel dial.

A closer look at the flawless enamel dial. Only 10 pieces of the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition will be produced.

 

While the H.Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is probably one of the finest timepieces that we have seen in this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).

 

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