Jaquet Droz adds the tourbillon to its skeleton Skelet-One line. Press Release details with commentary in italics within.
Commentary
The Grande Seconde collection is one of the 8 codes within the Jaquet Droz universe. And within that code, the Skelet-One is one of our favourites, as it embodies not only the spirit of the code components, it is also a good looking watch in our view. We have done the following reviews on the Skelet-One line:
The base model of the Grande Seconde Skelet-One
But all have been variations of the same theme, based on the same movement – the Jaquet Droz JD2663 SQ, made exclusively for Jaquet Droz by sister company – Blancpain. This new release is now a new movement with a tourbillon escapement, no doubt still based on the same JD2663 SQ, now with a new caliber number of JD2665 SQ. The movement is still manufactured exclusively for Jaquet Droz by Blancpain.
Though the origins of the caliber is clear, the movement is a rather substantial re-design. The new Skelet-One Tourbillon now features the subsidiary seconds hand on the sub-dial at 12 o’clock. and the hour-minute sub-dial at 6 o’clock, a vertically flipped arrangement to the base model. This is not a trivial redesign, as the crown remains in the same position, so it is not the simple matter of a rotation of the movement within the case. But Blancpain already has the movement just for this job – the Caliber 25 is perhaps a shoo-in. But it too need substantial work to skeletonize and to codify the aesthetics to match Jaquet Droz’s image.
The aesthetic of the Grande Second Skelet-One Tourbillon is a potent one. The skeletonized dial shows the entire movement, including the lattice like superstructure holding the wheel train. This structure is similar to the non-tourbillon caliber, but is finished in matte black which gives it a striking contrast to the red gold case, and the almost see-through dial.
The overall aesthetic of the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon retains the cool elegance of the base models. The tourbillon itself is unobtrusive and does not call to itself to be the star, but is nicely discreet…it is still there when you look for it, behind the seconds sub–dial.
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon
Price not available at publishing time. We will update when available.
The new Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon by Jaquet Droz paves the way for a new artistic horizon, breaking away from traditional designs and towards open-worked mechanics. With this sculptural, modern and powerful edition of the Tourbillon Skeleton, the iconic model is designed for connoisseurs.
The Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon displays its watchmaking precision, pushing the founding principal of the skeleton movement to the extreme: a minimum amount of material for the maximum amount of rigidity and light. The skeleton structure is brand new and focuses on straight lines, angles, modernity and perfect symmetry. This very contemporary skeletonization is as technical as its highly precise tourbillon movement can be, furthering the technical and aesthetic consistency of the piece. Its bridges, finished in black, confer a powerful matte appearance.
The tourbillon cage follows the geometry of the skeleton movement, with a triple cross shape which, once a minute, aligns perfectly with its bridges. The hands, including the seconds hand that is attached to the tourbillon cage, have been redesigned to be more slender and majestic. They sweep over the two “multi-tier” dials, of which the first is crafted from sapphire and displays the seconds, minutes and hours ring, and is adorned with gold indexes.
This delicate, transparent choreography is underpinned by a second dial in Swiss smoky quartz that is almost invisible but no less essential, and which plays with light and empty spaces that contrast with the figure eight shape – the aesthetic signature of the Grande Seconde collection – and in turn enhances the hour display. Jaquet Droz takes the first steps in creating different illusions for its “multi-tier” designs by playing with the degree of transparency on the dials and reflector, from slightly smoky to completely transparent.
To support the body of the watch, the bottom plate has been completely reworked with three objectives in mind: to distribute the circulating forces around the movement, thus ensuring it is sturdy and allowing as much light to pass through as possible. It is housed in a red gold 41 mm case with the largest opening possible, offering a complete view of the movement. This new addition also reveals an aesthetic that Jaquet Droz has worked on down to the smallest detail, with special attention given to the finishes of the bridges and screws. The red gold 18K skeletonized oscillating weight, visible from the back yet invisible from the dial, provides the Skelet-One Tourbillon with a 7-day power reserve.
