Today, we feature the new Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Ladies, which was released in Watches & Wonders 2021. The model we review is the full pavé diamonds in a platinum case. Proof that the ladies also deserve a high complication mechanical watch.
Review: Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Ladies in platinum and with diamonds
The Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Ladies is available as two models. The review sample is in platinum with diamonds Ref. 131981-9001 has a retail price on request. An ethical rose gold model, Ref. 131981-5001, with a Mother of Pearl dial and diamonds has a retail of CHF 125,000 before taxes. Each edition is limited to 25 pieces.
The ethical rose gold model was nominated for GPHG 2021 under the Ladies Complications Category.
The case, dial and hands
At first look, one cannot but be dazzled by the diamonds totally encapsulating the watch It just dominates the face of the watch. The case measures 35mm in diameter, and just 7.47mm thick and crafted in platinum and fully diamond set on the flanks, lugs, interhorn spaces, crown and bezel. The blue satin strap is equipped with a platinum buckle and also diamond-studded to match the case.
The flying tourbillon takes centre-stage through an aperture at 6 o’clock, punctuating the otherwise full diamond pavéd dial. The hour and minute hands are double faceted Dauphine style hands in a rhodium plating. A small seconds hand is attached to the tourbillon carriage.
The dial is completely paved with 282 diamonds in a radiating pattern, centered on the toubilllon pivot. There are no hour markers on the dial, and other than the L.U.Chopard printed on the underside of the sapphire dial, is in a style often referred by the Swiss as “mysterious”.
The overall impact of viewing the watch for the first time is absolutely stunning. The tourbillon, is superbly built, with its three arm carriage featuring a high polish and anglage. The flying design means that there is no upper bridge to block the view, and the animation of the beating balance being carried by the spinning carriage is spectacular. Especially set on the canvas of the diamonds.
But let us take a moment from being besotted by the diamonds and look at the movement. The movement is the L.U.C 96.24-L, a caliber originally introduced by Chopard in 2019 as their first automatic movement to feature a flying tourbillon. We reviewed the Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin featuring this movement in 2019. The movement carries two stacked barrels for an extended power reserve of 65 hours. The tourbillon can also be hacked. The caliber is only 3.33mm thick, identical to Chopard’s L.U.C 96.01-L, the manufacture’s first time only movement under the L.U.C branding created 25 years ago.
The finishing is excellent, with all the haute horlogerie aspects taken care with superb aplomb. Quite interesting is the 22k gold micro-rotor is also encrusted with diamonds for that added touch of luxury.
The movement is certified as “Chronometer” and Poinçon de Genève.
To us, this is proof enough that the ladies can get their diamond encrusted watches as well as a superior high complication piece. The Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Ladies Tourbillon is a superb example of this very specialised genre. The complicated watch is squeezed into a rather small 35mm case, perhaps suitable for the petite ladies. We can only speculate, as we can perhaps only speak on behalf of the masculine side of humanity, if that. But we can certainly say, that we are bedazzled by the pavé diamonds on the dial, and encrusting the the flanks, lugs, interhorn spaces, crown and bezel as well as the automatic winding rotor. And also equally fascinated by the magnificent tourbillon peeking out from the otherwise “mysterious” style dial. Stupendous!
And we must also applaud Chopard for making jewellery great again! Tongue firmly in cheek, of course. Though the excellence of the workmanship and attention to detail on this Flying T Twin is nothing to poke fun at, as indeed it is exceptional.
The Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin was photographed in the Chopard Singapore offices. Hasselblad H3D-39 with HC 4/120 Macro. Profoto strobes.
Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Ladies Technical specification
Diamond-set platinum case
Total diameter 35.00 mm
Thickness 7.47 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
Ethical 18-carat white gold crown set with a diamond 5.00 mm
Diamond-set bezel and case middle
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Mechanical with automatic winding L.U.C 96.24-L
Winding via a platinum micro-rotor entirely set with diamonds
Number of components 189
Total diameter 27.40 mm
Thickness 3.30 mm
Number of jewels 25
Frequency 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve 65 hours
Flying tourbillon performing one rotation per minute
Two barrels – Twin technology
Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motifs
Variable-inertia balance wheel
Balance-spring with flat terminal curve
Poinçon de Genève
Dial and hands:
18-carat white gold dial entirely set with diamonds
Rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes hands
White triangle-shaped small seconds hand affixed to the flying tourbillon carriage
Functions and displays:
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds appearing at 6 o’clock on the flying tourbillon carriage
Strap and buckle:
Strap in blue brushed fabric or blue alligator leather
Diamond-set platinum pin buckle