Tudor introduces some latest additions to its line-up, including new variants to its wildly popular Black Bay collection, in this year’s Watches and Wonders 2023.
Press Release information with commentary in italics.
The key highlights from Tudor’s novelties are undoubtedly its Black Bay series. 2023 saw Tudor introduce a smaller (37mm) version of the Black Bay Diver’s watch, a facelifted Black Bay “Burgundy”, as well as a new dial variant for the Black Bay GMT – amongst other watches.
New: Tudor Black Bay 54
The prices for the new Black Bay 54 begin at S$5,030.
While the Black Bay line references a range of TUDOR’s early dive watches, the all-new Black Bay 54 is the most true-to-form example of TUDOR’s first dive watch, the reference 7922. The 37mm case retains the classic proportions of yesteryear, yet boasts the technical prowess of TUDOR’s time-only Manufacture Calibre MT5400 and a 200m depth rating. True to form, the unidirectional bezel is devoid of any graduated hash marks, echoing the days of the early ’50 when SCUBA diving was in its infancy and TUDOR produced a watch for those daring enough to engage with the burgeoning sport. The new aesthetic details, however, don’t stop at the case dimensions and bezel. The seconds hand recalls the look of the original with a lollipop design. Ergonomics have evolved as well, with a redesigned crown and bezel, both featuring historical proportions.
Deployant’s Commentary: The new 37mm timepiece is a welcoming addition to the Black Bay family, for the fact that it features a more palatable case dimension that is definitely suited to collectors with a smaller wrist circumference. Despite its smaller dimensions, the Black Bay 54 still retains a strong wrist presence, and it does not appear to be a lesser watch as compared to its brethren.
We also appreciate the cleaner look, although the changes that were made are rather subtle. The most obvious one is perhaps the removal of graduated hash marks on the bezel insert – which is also a nod to the earlier Tudor watches of the 1950s. It certainly makes the watch look much less cluttered, which drives the adage that “less is more”.
Overall, we love the new Black Bay 54. It wears well on smaller wrists, and it still retains its handsome good looks – with a few improvements made as well. This certainly gives the Black Bay 58 a run for its money, and we do think that the Black Bay 54 might just have a slight edge between the two.
New: Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy”
The prices for the new Black Bay begin at S$5,780.
The original Black Bay first launched in 2012 with a burgundy bezel and it was given the Manufacture Calibre treatment in 2015. Now it returns in a third evolution foreshadowing the aesthetic and technical future of the line. Named Black Bay, this emblematic design in the TUDOR collection is another example of TUDOR’s expert command of one of the industry’s most demanding standards in terms of chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields. Tested by the Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS, the Black Bay brings together cutting-edge watchmaking technology with design elements inspired by TUDOR’s nearly seven-decade heritage of making robust professional diving watches.
Deployant’s Commentary: The Black Bay is arguably the watch that brought Tudor back into the game with the big boys, when it made its debut slightly more than a decade ago.
The most notable difference for collectors is that the Black Bay is now available with a five-link stainless steel bracelet, akin to the “jubilee” bracelet that is often associated with watches made by its sister-brand Rolex. This is a nice touch to the Black Bay, although it may not be exactly everyone’s cup of tea. We do see the appeal of this combination, and it certainly allows us to view the Black Bay in a different light.
The new Black Bay is also fitted with a more robust movement, in the form of the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U. This movement is tested by METAS (also known as the Federal Institute of Metrology), which further reinforces Tudor’s capabilities in producing a robust and solid tool watch. This is another great piece from Tudor, and a worthy piece to carry on the Black Bay lineage.
New: Tudor Black Bay GMT
The prices for the new Black Bay GMT begin at S$5,580.
The TUDOR Black Bay GMT is made of the right stuff. First off, it sports an incredibly useful multiple time-zone complication – also known as a GMT function – that establishes local time without losing sight of the time in two other time zones. Recognisable by its rotatable bezel, which borrows its deep blue and burgundy colour scheme from other models in the Black Bay line, but in a matte version, the Black Bay GMT is also a nod to the early days of this high-flying aesthetic.
Now TUDOR has added the option of an all-new opaline dial that perfectly complements the iconic colour scheme of the Black Bay GMT. Opaline isn’t quite white, instead there’s a slight silvery hint to the dial. Through a galvanic process, a matte white-grey finish is applied to the dial, and the marker surrounds are darkened to create a noticeable contrast. Beyond being reminiscent of the mid-century boom in commercial aviation, the charming opaline dial is highly legible.
Deployant’s Commentary: The new opaline dial adds a nice dimension to the Black Bay GMT, aside from the typical black dials. This is also slightly uncommon, which makes it a great option for someone who wants the functionality of a GMT watch, but with an additional hint of character and style with a slightly less common colour combination.
For more information on other novelties from Tudor, please check out Tudor’s website here.
Technical Specifications: Tudor Black Bay 54
Case: 37mm stainless steel case with polished and satin finish
Bezel: 60-minute unidirectional bezel in stainless steel with aluminium insert
Winding Crown: Stainless steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
Dial: Black, domed
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproofness: Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
Bracelet: Three-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, or rubber strap, both with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp
Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5400 (COSC); Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Precision: Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds hands at the centre; Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Oscillator: Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw; Non-magnetic silicon balance spring Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Total Diameter (Movement): 30.3mm
Thickness (Movement): 5mm
Jewels: 27 jewels
Power Reserve: Approximately 70 hours
Technical Specifications: Tudor Black Bay
Case: 41mm stainless steel case with polished and satin finish
Bezel: 60-minute unidirectional bezel in stainless steel with aluminium insert
Winding Crown: Stainless steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
Dial: Black, domed
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproofness: Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
Bracelet: Three-link or five-link stainless steel bracelets with polished and satin finish, or rubber strap, all with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp
Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U; Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Precision: Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute); Master Chronometer Certification from METAS
Functions: Centre hour, minute and seconds hands; Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Oscillator: Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw; Non-magnetic silicon balance spring Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Total Diameter (Movement): 31.8mm
Thickness (Movement): 6.5mm
Jewels: 25 jewels
Power Reserve: Certified 70 hours by METAS
Technical Specifications: Tudor Black Bay
Case: 41mm stainless steel case with polished and satin finish
Bezel: 48-notch bidirectional rotating bezel in stainless steel with 24-hours graduated matt burgundy/blue anodised aluminium disc
Winding Crown: Screw-down crown, with the TUDOR rose in relief, with circular satin-brushed steel winding crown tube
Dial: Domed opaline dial with a galvanic finish
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproofness: Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
Bracelet: Three-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, black fabric strap with burgundy accents
Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5652 (COSC); Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system; Integrated construction
Precision: Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Functions: Hours, 24 hours, minutes and seconds hands at the centre; Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock without non-correction range synchronised on the jumping hours hand setting; Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Oscillator: Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw; Non-magnetic silicon balance spring Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Total Diameter (Movement): 31.8mm
Thickness (Movement): 7.52mm
Jewels: 28 jewels
Power Reserve: Approximately 70 hours
