2016 marks the 20th anniversary of the first annual calendar produced by Patek Philippe in 1996, and it was the first annual calendar wristwatch ever. To celebrate Patek Philippe has created 2 new dial variations which will be available in two different precious metal cases.
At Deployant we love Breguet numerals. There is just something about them that makes a dial pop and makes the timepiece very attractive. That combined with the slightly sunk in dotted minute track and gold leaf hands makes this annual calendar stand out. For this configuration of annual calendar, the day and the month are visible through two apertures located at top half of the dial under the printing of Patek Philippe. At the 6 o’clock position is the 24hr indicator which doubles as the day/night indicator. Located in the top half of the 24hr indicator is the moonphase and at the bottom is the aperture which shows the date.
Both versions will be 38.5mm in diameter.
Pictured below is the 18K rose gold with silvery white opaline dial.
The other version available is 18K white gold with a dark gray sunburst dial.
Visible through the sapphire caseback of both watches is the caliber 324 S QA LU 24H. Rhodiumed bridges with Geneva striping, round-chamfered edges and gold-filled engravings, a large rotor in 18K yellow gold with an engraved Calatrava cross, Geneva circular graining, perlage in the center, beveled flanks with Geneva snailing (colimaçons), and gleaming red bearing jewels. Rate accuracy is assured by Patek Philippe’s proprietary Gyromax® balance with the patented Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar®, a revolutionary derivative of silicon. As specified by the Patek Philippe Seal, rate deviations must range within -3 and +2 seconds per day.
Both watches have deployant buckles in their respective metals with the signature Patek Philippe Calatrava Cross.
We think the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396 with Breguet numeral dials give both watches a subtle wow factor since those numerals make a Patek Philippe just that fraction more special.
The watches will retail for CHF 42,300
For more information please visit Patek Philippe
Technical Specifications
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396
Movement Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H
Self-winding mechanical movement, Annual Calendar, 24-hour subdial, moon phases, sweep seconds
Diameter: 33.3 mm (basic caliber 26 mm, Annual Calendar module 33.3 mm)
Height: 5.78 mm (basic caliber 3.3 mm, Annual Calendar 2.48 mm)
Number of parts: 347
Number of jewels: 34
Power reserve: Min. 35 hours, max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
Functions: Two-position crown:
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the time
Displays: With hands:
• Legal time in hours, minutes, seconds
• 24 hours
In apertures:
• Day, month, date
• Moon phases
Correction push pieces: Date at 4 o’clock
Day at 10 o’clock
Month at 2 o’clock
Moon phase at 8 o’clock
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Features Ref. 5396R (18K rose gold 5N)
Case: 18K rose gold 5N, sapphire-crystal display back, water-resistant crown
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter: 38.5 mm
Length (lug to lug): 46.8 mm
Width (3 to 9 o’clock incl. crown): 40.45 mm
Thickness (crystal to display back): 11.2 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm
Dial: Brass silvery white opaline
Applied Breguet numerals in 18K rose gold 5N
Minute markers 18K rose gold 5N
Hours and minutes: Dauphine hands in 18K rose gold 5N, polished
Seconds: Pfinodal rose-gold-plated 5N
24 hours: Leaf-shaped hands in 18K rose gold 5N
Strap: Alligator with large square scales, shiny chocolate brown, hand-stitched, Calatrava fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold 5N
Features Ref. 5396G (18K white gold)
Case: 18K white gold, sapphire-crystal display back, water-resistant crown
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter: 38.5 mm
Length (lug to lug): 46.8 mm
Width (3 to 9 o’clock incl. crown): 40.45 mm
Thickness (crystal to display back): 11.2 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm
Dial: Brass, galvanic gray sunburst
Applied Breguet numerals in 18K white gold
Minute markers in 18K white gold
Hours and minutes: Dauphine hands in 18K white gold, polished
Seconds: Pfinodal white-gold plated
24 hours: Leaf-shaped hand in white gold
Strap: Alligator with large square scales, matt black, hand-stitched, Calatrava fold-over clasp in 18K white gold