Lovely design, beautiful moonphase. Modern movement with adequate finishing and power reserve. Among the best enamel dial watches that are available in the market today. Competitive pricing, especially for the enamel dial rose gold variant.
43mm x 13mm, might be too wide and thick for classic watch conservatives; although for some this might be a plus.
JD still faces the stigma of a tough resale market; a business side problem.
Jaquet Droz released their latest model with a moonphase at Baselworld with the Grande Seconde collection. The Grande Seconde collection is inspired by the Pocket Watch created by Pierre Jaquet-Droz in 1784. The Grande Seconde Moon is available in two variants, one in stainless steel with a silver dial, and another in rose gold with an Ivory Enamel dial.
The Case and Dial
Both variants are sized at 43 mm in diameter and 13.23 mm in height. For the rose gold variant, it uses a double level ivory Grand Feu enamel dial with an 18-karat red gold applied date ring. It is fit with a matching blue moon disc, that is adorned with star and moon appliques. The moon disc is in 18-karat red gold and the appliques in 22-karat gold. Given the large sized seconds, the moonphase display is larger than most other moonphase watches, apart from the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon. Jaquet Droz opts for the ‘realistic’ moon depiction, with a crater surface finishing on the moon applique.
The watch greets its wearer with an immaculate dial finish, beautiful in color tone and reflective quality. A double layer, lower plane slope to the moonphase display reflects the high level of craft and skill required of the dial maker.
On the silver opaline dial variant, the color theme reflects a more cool color, with a sky blue on silver combination. The subdials are marked by railroad track minutes, and present more levels from the stamped recesses as compared to the enamel dial. Both watches use lancet-shaped hands, similar in style to the Saxonia, but in different colors. The steel variant uses heated blue steel hands while the rose gold variant uses matching gold hands.
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon bears the signature unique juxtaposition and overlapping subdials, with a counterintuitive large seconds counter. A simple twist creates a fun layout on an otherwise understated classic style.
The Grande Seconde Moon uses the in-house Jaquet Droz 2660QL3, a self-winding mechanical movement with silicon balance spring and pallet horns. Fit with double barrels, the movement carries 68 hours of power reserve. Apart from the unique off-center display, the movement runs an astronomical moon phase complication and beats at 28,800 v.p.h.
The movement aesthetics is congruent with the dial side design. While the stainless steel variant shows a more utilitarian, engine-like quality, the rose gold variant has a matching 18-karat red gold rotor. The plates and bridges are well-decorated with polished beveled edges and a matching Côtes de Genève pattern that converge towards the balance wheel. The overall finishing quality is competitive with regards to price, and comparatively lies between Jaeger-leCoultre and Vacheron Constantin.
Jaquet Droz as usual delivers another quality product and shows its prowess as one of the leading Grand Feu enamel dial brands in the market today. While the 43 mm size is a staple for the collection, some may prefer a smaller sized case for this otherwise classic style. Then again, the watch size may be a necessity considering the Grande Seconde dial design, and the already “almost touching” seconds and minutes hands. Nonetheless, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon is an interesting piece to watch and is a strong contender in the moonphase category.
Specifications and price
Red gold enamel dial ~ S$ 46,000
Stainless steel silver dial ~ S$ 25,000
|REFERENCE||J007533200 (Red gold variant)|
|MOVEMENT||Jaquet Droz 2660QL3, self-winding mechanical movement, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, double barrel, flat bridges, 18-karat red gold oscillating weight|
|INDICATIONS||Off-centered hours and minutes, large off-centered second Pointer-type date display at 6 o’clock Astronomical moon phase at 6 o’clock|
|POWER RESERVE||68 hours|
|CASE||18-carat red gold Diameter Ø 43 mm Height 13.23 mm Individual serial number engraved on the case-back|
|WATER RESISTANCE||3 bar (30 meters)|
|DIAL||Double level ivory Grand Feu enamel dial with 18-karat red gold applied ring Blue moon disc, star and moon appliques in 18-karat red gold and 22-karat gold respectively|
|HANDS||Hours, minutes, seconds and date in 18-karat red gold Date with red varnished tip|
|STRAP||Rolled-edge hand-made brown alligator|
|BUCKLE||18-carat red gold ardillon|
|COMPLICATIONS||Phase de lune|