Well, we have just recently concluded this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). For our loyal readers or followers, you will surely know the drill by now. The editorial team from Deployant, as usual, will be sharing our favorite novelties from this year’s exhibition.
There are definitely several hits and misses in this year’s SIHH. For me, I am glad to say that there are fortunately more of the former than the latter. Somehow, many watchmakers seemed to have read my mind and had created pieces that I thought resonates pretty well with me. So, what were some of the timepieces that had caught my eye and stole my heart this time round? Let’s find out!
IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII “Le Petit Prince” Edition
To be honest, I think the new Mark XVIII looks great. I love how they have omitted the “altimeter style” date indicator to give the watch a much cleaner appearance. I also love the subtle changes that were done to the dial (such as the positioning of the triangle at the 12 o’clock position) to make the entire watch much more aesthetically pleasing. But for me, the “Le Petit Prince” edition had an edge over the normal variant of the Mark XVIII. I am a sucker for both blue dial watches and the Little Prince, and this watch is simply making me weak at the knees.
Well, at SGD$6,250, I can probably fulfill my dream. But unfortunately, it seems like my bank account does not share the same sentiments as me after all…
H.Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition
I have always been fascinated with H.Moser & Cie’s watches, especially with their minimalist and simple approach to telling time and indicating the various calendar functions.
When I first saw the new H.Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition, I was immediately blown away. The white “Grand Feu” enamel dial is simply bewitching, and I simply adore the classic looks of the dial and the date indicator. The pairing of the lugs and straps, in my opinion, works brilliantly as well.
The watch, as you might have noticed, is pretty much inspired by the vintage pocket watches that H.Moser & Cie. had produced in the past. The watch case, for instance, features two covers (on both the front and back) with cloisonné enamel, guilloché, engraving and setting techniques. Although I appreciate the intricacies, I would have preferred not having the cover. I thought that dial was too pretty, and that it was a pity since it was hidden behind the elaborated front cover. What do you guys reckon?
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Automatic
Among the “Holy Trinity” brands, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas is perhaps the most underrated and overlooked sports watch between the trios. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak seemed to have been a hit with many younger and wealthy collectors, while the Nautilus is definitely an endearing icon in the world of horology. But Vacheron Constantin is definitely not going to sit back and watch their opponents steal their share of the limelight.
In the recently concluded SIHH 2016, Vacheron Constantin had just introduced the recently revamped the Overseas collection, and the result is staggering. In total, five new models were created, in which three of them are fitted with newly-produced movements. But the one that caught my eyes was the simple, yet elegant, Overseas Automatic (Reference 4500V/110A-B128). The watch, in my opinion, is very iconic and timeless in terms of its aesthetics. It is, notably, fitted with the new Caliber 5100. The twin-barrel movement features a power reserve of approximately 60 hours, and it is adorned with an alluring 22K gold oscillating weight. On top of that, it is an extremely versatile timepiece as well with the interchangeable strap options.
Among the different variants, I really adore the stainless steel version that is paired with the striking electric blue dial. I think it would look remarkable with either the blue rubber or leather strap. Don’t you think that this killer combination is simply seductive and sexy?
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Calendar
I have always liked the Reverso, especially the Ultra-Thin models with just the time-only function. However, once in a while, Jaeger-LeCoultre would create some rather interesting pieces like the Tribute Gyrotourbillon which certainly makes one wet one’s pants. And it appears that the new Reverso Tribute Calendar have something that is pretty magical in it as well.
The Reverso, in my opinion, is one of the most well-proportioned and designed timepiece in the world of horology. It amazes me how the watch looks so stunning and mesmerizing, despite being a Plain Jane with a rather uncommon rectangular watch case. In this year’s SIHH, I feel that Jaeger-LeCoultre have outdone themselves with the new Reverso Tribute Calendar. I love how the watchmaker had adopted the traditional looks, and how they have seamlessly incorporated the triple calendar function into the dial without making it look too cluttered. The design team had also thoughtfully cased this in a pink gold case, in which I think accentuates the gracefulness of this timepiece.
I have one small qualm, and that would be the dial on the reverse side. I feel that it would have been nicer if Jaeger-LeCoultre had omitted that, and showcase its beautiful movement instead. The watch would have definitely been less practical, but I would have much preferred it that way.
Greubel Forsey Signature 1
I conclude my Top 5 Selection with arguably the main highlight of this year’s SIHH: the Greubel Forsey Signature 1.
Greubel Forsey, as many will agree, is possibly one of the top watchmakers in the world of horology. The finishing, design, and execution are perhaps unparalleled in the industry (save for a few other top independent watchmakers like Kari Voutilainen and Philippe Dufour). Also, with its very high price-tag and exclusivity, it is no wonder why many people have placed Greubel Forsey watches as one of their top grail watches in their horological wishlist.
The Signature 1, interestingly, aims to make the brand more accessible to the collectors. This is supposedly the “entry-level” Greubel Forsey timepiece, although it is still priced at a rather expensive CHF150,000. While the manual-winding watch looks deceptively simple, it took the watchmaker nearly six years to come up with such an alluring timepiece. It features an in-house produced balance wheel system, a stunning all-gold dial, and the usual impeccable level of finishing that can be expected in a Greubel Forsey timepiece.
With the Signature 1, we think that Greubel Forsey is without a doubt thriving in the right direction. And of course, since this is the first piece in the new “Signature” series, we will certainly be keeping our eyes peeled for any future releases in this exciting and magnificent collection.
With that, I end my Top 5 Selections for this year’s SIHH. Of course, there were many other stellar pieces from the other watchmakers. I like how Montblanc continues to strive and produce very value-for-money pieces like the Heritage Chronometrie Twincounter Date for the luxury category, as well as A. Lange & Söhne for their new Richard Lange Jumping Seconds and the Saxonia Thin. Alas, I am only allowed to select 5 pieces, out of the many impeccable novelties that we have seen this year…
I hope that you have enjoyed my selections for this year’s SIHH, and do keep a look out in the subsequent days for my fellow writers’ Top 5 Selections as well. Till then, ciao!