GoS, the Swedish independent watch brand, unveils a new blue Guilloché option for the Norrsken collection in their signature case of Damascus steel, and a magnificent blue dial inspired by the Northern Lights.
Press release information with commentary in italics.
Commentary
We have previously covered the GoS watches – the Sarek Akka and the Skadi, and were impressed with the amount of handwork that the watches carry. Especially with their signature Damascus steel which are used in the case, crown, buckles and dials. This Swedish independent has been creating these spectacular watches in the vein of the ancient Scandinavian iconography.
The company, Gustafsson & Sjögren, shortened to GoS Watches, began as a partnership between the master bladesmith Johan Gustafsson and master watchmaker Patrik Sjögren. Since the summer of 2021, Patrik became the sole owner of GoS and the Damascus steel is now produced by another Swedish master bladesmith – Mr. Conny Persson.
One of the interesting aspects, and perhaps their unique selling proposition of the watches is the use of hand forged Damascus steel. The process it demands results in every piece containing different patterns. This character gives the resultant steel a kind of personality, and each piece is a unique work of art.
The Norrsken collection was released in March, but since then, a couple of improvements and changes have been made. The Guilloché dial is finished with an additional step that adds more lustre and also a deeper blue color. And the SuperLuminova now a matching daylight color and a strong and bright blue glow.
In this new watch, they have tried to capture the beauty of the Northern Lights, a spectacular light show famous the world over which appears over the skies of the far north. Scientifically, the lights are a result of collisons of gaseous particles in the Earth’s atmosphere with charged particles streaming in from the Sun.
Also as impressive is that many aspects of the watch’s production is directly linked to the ancient Scandinavian arts. For example the index ring, is hand blown from a Swedish crystal produced by a master craftsman. This ring sits above another ring, made by James Thompson of Black Badger to provide the lume.
From the photographs received, the colours of the dial is very bright, and creates an aura of a spectacle on the new watch. The dial is available either as a steel Damascus steel dial, a hand guilloché dial. The bezel is also available in two options – a polished steel or in Damascus steel.
The movement is the Swartz-Etienne based Calibre GoS03. GoS says it is modified, but not clear as to what these modifications are. But from the photographs, it is clear that the finishing is quite good. Aesthetically, the movement finish is in line with the visuals of the Damascus steel. Of particular note is the hand-cast rotor in Damascus steel, also given the brilliant blue treatment.
We were originally scheduled to handle and photograph this watch at Dubai Watch Week, which starts today. But due to travel restrictions in Singapore which will require us to quarantine on our return, we were unable to go. We will find another occasion to examine this new GoS Norrsken and report back once we have done that.
GoS Norrsken – Blue Guilloché
The name Norrsken is named after the the Swedish term for Northern Lights. If you have never seen Northern lights with your own eyes, it is hard to imagine that it can be of any other colour than green. However, Northern lights can also be deep blue under certain conditions.
This timepiece captures the appearance of swirling blue lights dancing across northern skies to emulate this natural phenomenon. The watch draws upon the expertise of various artisans and features a hand-cut guilloché dial and a micro-rotor movement. A handblown index ring, formed of Swedish crystal, allows an extraordinary degree of luminescence to pass through its clear surface, flooding the dial with vivid bright blue tones.
The Norrsken is available with a choice of case rings, dials and bezels. At the heart of the watch is the Calibre GoS03, featuring premium finishing and a customised micro-rotor hand-forged in Damascus steel. The microrotor for the blue Guilloche-option receives a Midnight Blue heat-tempered finishing, which previously has been available for GoS Damascus steel dials only.
The Norrsken is housed in a 41.5mm stainless steel case and encompasses an array of materials. It is available with a Damascus steel dial, a material synonymous with GoS, or a hand-guilloché dial. This latter option is produced in collaboration with the renowned guilloché specialist, Jochen Benzinger.
The index ring, encircling the dial, is produced by Swedish master craftsman, Mikael Kenlind of Vas Vitreum. This clear index ring is hand-sculpted and handblown in Swedish crystal, a rare form of glass seldom seen outside of the country. Twelve small fixation points hold the index ring in place, allowing a degree of flex and thereby mitigating the risk of damage should the watch be subject to impact.
James Thompson and his company, Black Badger, again based in Sweden, provide an insert ring cast from solid Badgerite. This solid lume material, developed in collaboration with Swiss firm, RC Tritec, the makers of Super-LumiNova, is positioned behind the glass index ring. The clear glass ring refracts light into the case, creating a mesmerising bright blue shimmer. A further application of lume is positioned below the index ring near the exposed dial area, enhancing the readability of the indexes. A special colour of lume and method of application were developed specifically for this watch. This means of illumination shuns any form of electronics or high-tech luminescence, concepts alien to GoS, a firm which is renowned for employing traditional handcraftsmanship.
Spear-shaped hour and minute hands convey the prevailing time, while the GoS triskele indicates the running seconds. Both the index ring and seconds display are recessed within the dial, which is filled with Super-LumiNova.
Like the dial, the case of the Norrsken is also available in two variants. One option features a highly polished stainless-steel case ring, while a second version is endowed with a Damascus steel case ring. Another option is to request Black Damascus treatment of the damascus steel case parts. The bezel and the caseback are facetted, accentuating the appearance of the fluted case ring.
The bezel is available in a choice of highly polished stainless steel or Damascus steel, both finished in the GoS workshop. Furthermore, all pin buckles are forged of Damascus steel, produced by GoS, and feature the brand’s triskele logo.
The caseback is fitted with a pane of sapphire crystal allowing the wearer to view the automatic movement within. The Calibre GoS03 is made by movement specialist Schwarz Etienne and customised by GoS. It encompasses premium finishing, including hand-polished bevels and specific modifications requested by GoS, including a dedicated escape wheel bridge.
GoS has equipped the movement with its own micro-rotor, hand-forged in Damascus steel. Its upper surface is suffused with shades of green and black, matching the appearance of the dial. The micro-rotor sits flush with the neighbouring bridges, mitigating the height of the movement and providing unrestricted views of numerous beautifully finished components. The ratchet wheel is adorned with the GoS triskele emblem. When the mainspring is fully wound, the watch will run autonomously for 86 hours.
The Norrsken is supplied on a sumptuous strap, handmade in Stockholm from high-gloss, polished Salmon leather. Salmon leather in black/blue is available as an option to the glossy black Salmon. Finally, the watch is presented in a handblown Swedish crystal presentation box, once again, handcrafted by Mikael Kenlind of Vas Vitreum.
GoS Norrsken – Blue Guilloché Specifications
Handmade in Sweden with a Swiss made movement
Functions
Hours, Minutes Seconds
Small second at 6h:00 in the shape of the GoS triskele
Movement
Manufacture movement by Schwarz Etienne with GoS-specific modifications and finishing
Automatic winding with a micro-rotor and handfinished damascus steel counterweight
GoS triskele engraved on click wheel
Handpolished bevels on all bridges
Separate bridge for escape wheel
21,600 vibrations/hour
86h power reserve
Stop-seconds mechanism
33 jewels – 199 parts
30.40mm x 5.25mm
Case
41.5mm x 12.1mm (8mm at edge)
Stainless steel with optional Black DamascusTM case ring and/or Black DamascusTM steel bezel.
Sapphire crystals front and caseback – Front crystal domed with double sided anti-reflective coating
Transparent crystal gaskets in new Swiss-developed material
5ATM water resistance (50m)
Crown with double gaskets and GoS internal impact protection.
Dial
Damascus steel: Handforged Swedish tool steel by GoS bladesmiths – machined and finished by Patrik Sjögren
Guilloche: Silver dial handturned by master Jochen Benzinger – machined and finished by Patrik Sjögren
Hour index recesses filled with midnight blue Badgerite, developed by James Thompson and Swiss SuperLuminova
Transparent index ring in Swedish Crystal – individually handmade by master glass artisan Mikael Kenlind
Solid ring of Badgerite applied round the Crystal index ring.
Hands
GoS viking spearhead – Rhodium plated
GoS triskele small seconds hand
Strap
Polished Salmon leather – black or blue/black – Made in Stockholm
Tapered 21mm to 20mm with rounded padding
Pin buckle in stainless damascus steel with GoS triskele logo
Presentation box
Individually handcrafted presentation box in Swedish crystal, handmade by glass artisan Mikael Kenlind
Availability
Limited to 50pcs and every watch is a unique piece and made on order.
Price range from US$19.500 to US$24.500 (excl applicable taxes) depending on selected options. Price for Norrsken with bespoke alternatives or case in precious metal on request.
