Six underrated watches that we think deserves more attention

When it comes to watches, there are definitely a few popular options that are on the top of every collector’s mind. So much so that for some particular pieces, it is virtually unattainable at any authorised dealer, or that there is an incredibly long wait-list for one to even acquire the coveted timepiece(s).

While these timepieces certainly have its strong merits, we felt that it was a little disappointing that most of the attention is focused on a selected few watches. We reckon that beyond these timepieces, there are many other watches out there that are equally deserving of some attention.

In this week’s article, we hope to shine some light on some underappreciated pieces, across different price ranges. These are arguably very fine watches, and perhaps offering a rather credible alternative to some of its more popular compatriots. Otherwise, a few of them are deemed as great watches in their own right, especially when it comes to value proposition and quality.

So, what are some of the watches that we reckon deserve more attention? Let us find out!

Citizen Kuroshio ’64

We begin the article with a rather compelling and handsome watch: Citizen Kuroshio ’64.

In the world of modestly-priced watches, there are no shortage of options from the usual suspects, such as Orient or Seiko. We reckon Citizen also offers a compelling option, especially with the steady rise in prices of Seiko watches over the last few years.

Based on the Parawater, the 41mm Kuroshio ’64 pays tribute to one of the brand’s earliest water resistant watches. There are many cues from the vintage iteration, such as the arrowhead hour markers, dauphine hands, and domed sapphire crystal. The watch is simple, but well-executed with minute details such as a textured dial, and a sleek-looking case that features both matte and polished surfaces.

The Kuroshio ’64 is priced at S$583.15, and we reckon it offers a great alternative for a new collector who is looking to purchase his or her first mechanical timepiece.

Hanhart 417 ES

Next, we have a lesser known brand in the horological world. Cue the good-looking and charming Hanhart 417 ES.

Based on the legendary chronograph that was used by the German Armed Forces in the 1950s, the 417 ES offers collectors a faithful reproduction with reliable and modern mechanics. The 42mm timepiece features all the original touches, such as the fluted bezel and classic typography on the dial.

The watch is notably powered by the humble and robust Sellita SW 510 M movement. This is a manual-winding movement, with an autonomy of around 58 hours. Overall, at a price point of €1,840 including VAT (approximately S$2,763), we are hard pressed to find such a solid and good-looking piece that offers as much value as this.

NOMOS Glashütte Zürich Weltzeit

NOMOS is a brand that has garnered quite a sizeable following in recent years, but there are still some hidden gems from the Glashütte-based watch manufacturer. The NOMOS Glashütte Zürich Weltzeit is one such timepiece.

The Zürich Weltzeit offers an interesting interpretation to the world time complication. Featuring a minimalist design, the timepiece is equally as simple to operate as well. Notably, the time zone can be adjusted simply by the push of an actuator at the 2 o’clock position on the case.

For NOMOS watches, another key highlight would be the movement. In this case, it would be the in-house DUW 5201 movement. This movement has an autonomy of 42 hours, and it features some nice touches such as the Glashütte ribbing, NOMOS perlage, Glashütte sunburst, and flame-blued screws.

The 40mm timepiece is priced at S$7,820, which is rather reasonable for an in-house developed world timer. This is definitely very underrated, and for what it is worth, is probably one of the best offerings within the space of worldtimers.

Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860

When it comes to Chopard, its jewellery creations might perhaps be the first thing that comes to mind. But for watch aficionados, it is more than that.

The L.U.C collection is perhaps one of the best kept secrets in the industry, and it is often overlooked when high-end and well-made timepieces are concerned. But that does not mean that it does not deserve any form of recognition. The XPS 1860, is a damn fine timepiece despite its restrained outlook. The magic lies in the overall quality of work done to the watch, as well as the in-house Calibre 96.03 which boasts a 22k gold micro-rotor and the Hallmark of Geneva.

Unlike its other competitors, the 40mm XPS 1860 is priced rather modestly. It retails at US$9,020 (approximately S$12,233) for the stainless steel model, which is rather reasonable for something of this caliber. This is indeed a worthy brand and timepiece that is worth a double take.

Piaget Altiplano

Piaget, as a brand itself, is similarly not as widely-known within the circle of watch collecting. However, we reckon they do deserve much more attention than they are currently receiving.

The Altiplano is a great example. Touted as one of the thinnest watches in the world, the Altiplano is a testament to Piaget’s commitment to horological excellence. For this particular 38mm timepiece, this is achieved through extremely precision engineering, where every component is produced to be as thin as possible. In addition, for the watch to achieve its 3.65mm thinness, Piaget had to also incorporate the dial and movement onto the same plane altogether.

Priced at S$38,200, the Altiplano is a great timepiece that showcases the prowess of the manufacturer. We love the concept behind the Altiplano, and the entire execution. This is definitely a dress watch that will elevate one’s collection onto the next level.

Breguet Tradition 7067

When it comes to Breguet, classy dress watches with beautiful engine-turned guilloché dials are certainly images that would come to mind. However, we think Breguet is much more than that.

The Tradition collection is a timepiece that hopes to change collector’s perception of the brand, with its contemporary take. Featuring an openworked design, the movement – a key element of any Breguet watches – is revealed in full glory. But beyond that, the Tradition also retains the Breguet DNA that makes its watches special – and in this case, the guilloché dial, Breguet-style hands, coin-edged fluting on the band of the case, and the Breguet hairspring. Talk about having the best of both worlds.

One of our favourite pieces from the collection is perhaps the 7067, which also incidentally features the dual time-zone display. It is a fine timepiece, with great finishing throughout. The Tradition 7067, in precious metal, is priced at S$56,200 onwards, and we reckon this is a sublime watch that showcases Breguet as one of the tour de force in the watchmaking scene.

Concluding Thoughts

While we think we have featured some rather deserving timepieces, we reckon this is just the tip of the iceberg. After all, there are so many options available in the market, and surely there are also other timepieces that are equally as compelling as those that we have highlighted in today’s article.

We believe there are some really underrated watches in today’s article. The Piaget and L.U.C, for instance, are very impressive in terms of their execution and quality. In addition, the former also manages to showcase its technical prowess, through the creation of one of the thinnest mechanical timepieces ever. These are traits that surely make some of these timepieces so incredible and special.

So, what are your thoughts on our selection today? What do you reckon are some of the other watches that deserve a spot on this list as well? Let us know in the comments section below!