Following the unveiling of the Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” watch which we have covered here, A. Lange & Söhne presents its latest addition to the Zeitwerk family in conjunction with the line’s 10th anniversary: the Zeitwerk Date. Accompanying the Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” and the Zeitwerk Date are a handful of other novelties consisting of current models with aesthetic changes.
With the presentation of the Zeitwerk in 2009, A. Lange & Söhne started a new era in timekeeping. The prominent face and innovative concept of the first mechanical wristwatch with constant-force escapement and precisely jumping digital displays that indicate the hour and minute with jumping numerals have since been commended with multiple awards.
Ten years later, Lange’s mechanical digital watch welcomes a newly designed movement that incorporates an additional function: the ring-shaped date display. The Zeitwerk Date comes in a 44.2-millimetre whitegold case with a grey dial and a red date.
The circumferential date ring consists of glass with printed numerals from 1 to 31. The current date is displayed in red. To achieve this effect, a small colour segment beneath the date ring performs one step exactly at midnight. So in the course of a month, it moves around the dial by one full revolution. With this arrangement, the date is always clearly legible at all times and also recognisable intuitively. The date display can be adjusted with the corrector at 8 o’clock; the switching impulse is generated when it is released.
For the developers at Lange, the Zeitwerk Date presented itself as both a challenge and an opportunity. The large numeral discs and the prominent dial with the time bridge make it impossible to integrate a conventional date, let alone an outsize date. That is why a totally new design approach was needed. The precisely jumping ring date was the solution.
The technical innovations in the Zeitwerk Date also include an additional button at 4 o’clock – it is used to separately advance the hour indication. In earlier versions of the Zeitwerk, it can take fairly long to adjust the time via the crown – minute by minute. The integration of the hour button was associated with considerable design modifications. To enable the correction independently of the switching cycles of the movement, a clutch uncouples the hour ring from the jumping numerals mechanism each time the button is pressed. The switching impulse is generated when the button is released.
The new manually wound Calibre L043.8 stands out with its atypical movement architecture. What remains is the patented constant-force escapement that handles two tasks. As a remontoir device, it powers the balance with a uniform amount of force for the entire running duration. Additionally, it delivers the one-per-minute impulse for switching the three-disc jumping numerals display. The characteristic Lange hallmarks of the Zeitwerk Date include the lavish finissage of the 516-part movement. A number of its components, for example the engraved ratchet wheel and the filigreed remontoir bridge, can be viewed through the sapphire-crystal caseback.
Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in White Gold with Pink Gold Dial
The original Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon was launched in 2016. Immensely sophisticated, the watch features a unique combination of a flyback chronograph, a perpetual calendar with moon phases, a tourbillon with stop seconds, and a peripheral power reserve indicator. The first 100-watch edition in platinum with a black dial is now followed by a second edition of 100 watches in white gold and with a pink-gold dial. The result is a delightful contrast between the warm hued dial and the stealthy cool white gold case.
Langematik Perpetual in Honey Gold
First introduced in 2001, the Langematik Perpetual was the world’s first self-winding wristwatch that combined an outsize-date display and a perpetual calendar. Its self-winding L922.1 SAX-0-MAT movement features the zero-reset mechanism which was patented in 2000. This year, the Langematik Perpetual will be available in honey gold, limited to 100 pieces. Used exclusively by Lange, honey gold is strictly reserved for selected models and is known to be more resistant than other gold alloys. Also unique to the model is the embossed circle upon which the honey gold Roman numeral hour markers sit.
Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in White Gold and Black Dial
Ever since it was launched in 2016, Lange’s first new-era model with jumping seconds has stood out with its regulator dial, which draws attention to the smallest of the three units of time: the seconds. The display in the lower zone where the hour and minute indications intersect was rather novel itself: ten hours before the unwound state of the mainspring is reached, it switches from white to red, reminding the wearer that the watch needs to be rewound soon. More than just about looks, the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds boasts a special combination of a constant-force escapement for the seconds, jumping seconds, and zero-reset function. For SIHH 2019, the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds receives a makeover and is now available in white gold with a black dial. It is also minimally but effectively inundated with red accents on the dial.
Movement Lange manufacture Calibre L043.8, manually wound, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand; jumping minutes; constant-force escapement
Movement parts 516
No. of jewels 70
Screwed gold chatons 2
Escapement Lever escapement
Oscillation system Shock-resistant cam-poised balance; superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house with patent-pending attachment (balance spring clamp), frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring
Power reserve 72 hours when fully wound
Functions Time indicated in hours and minutes with jumping numerals, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds; ring date; power-reserve indicator
Operating elements Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; button at 4 o’clock for correcting the hour; corrector at 8 o’clock for correcting the date display
Case dimensions Diameter: 44.2 millimetres; height: 12.3 millimetres
Movement dimensions Diameter: 37 millimetres; height: 8,9 millimetres
Glass and caseback Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9)
Case White gold
Dial Solid silver, grey
Date display Red
Time bridge Rhodiumed German silver
Hands Rhodiumed gold
Strap Hand-stitched alligator leather, dark brown
Buckle White-gold prong buckle