New & Reviewed: H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade

H. Moser releases an addition to the Streamliner Tourbillon line with a novelty with a natural jade dial.

New & Reviewed: H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade

The H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Jade Ref. 6804-0406 will retail at SGD 185,000. Inclusive of 9% GST. Limited Edition of 100 pieces.

First introduced in 2020, the Streamliner Collection has been a very successful collection for Moser. The launch model was the Streamliner Chrongraph (the launch model is sold out, but other variants are being offered), using the Agengraphe movement. Later models were introduced with Center Seconds (later in 2020, now sold out),the Perpetual Calendar (2021) and the Tourbillon in 2022. The most recent addition to the lineup is the Small Seconds (2023 with a new, slimmer case).

The case, dial and hands

As discussed in the previous paragraph, and as the name suggests, the novelty takes the form of the Streamliner Tourbillon case (40mm), which is slightly larger than last year’s Small Seconds (39mm). The Streamliner Tourbillon is not a new watch per say. Moser has released this same watch, but with a Vantablack dial previously as the Ref. 6804-0400. This novelty is essentially the same watch, including the 5N Red Gold case and bracelet, same movement, but with a natural jade dial instead of the fancy Vantablack dial. The Streanliner Tourbillon Vantablack red gold also exist with gemset bezel with coloured stones on the bezel. A variant in white gold is also available in their signature fumé dial. As far as we know, these versions are not limited editions.

As we discussed in our first hands-on comprehensive review of the Streamliner Chronograph, the shape of the watch is remarkable. The case shape defies simple description, as it morphs from a round to a square with sloped shoulders, hinting at an octagon, though not quite. The lines are fluid, the curves geomatic resulting in a harmonious, complex shape. The visuals is made even more attractive by the balance of contrasts and textures. And the bracelet flows naturally and seamlessly from there.

The dial layout is very classical and minimalistic. The dial does not even bear the brand name, and consists only of the hour markers for 12, 3 and 9. These are appliqués, executed in red gold. The hour and minute hands are also in red gold and carry Globolight inserts, a material which we have seen in the Streamliner series as early as the first  Chronograph and the Center Seconds. Instead of painted-on SuperLuminova, it uses a three-dimensional ceramic material which is infused with Super-LumiNova. It is claimed to be brighter with a longer lasting afterglow than painted lume. See the lume photograph on our Streamliner Perpetual Calendar review. As with the other models, no lume is applied to the markers nor the seconds hand.

But the speciality of this novelty is the jade dial. The jade is sourced from 100% natural stone and was mined from the ground in Wyoming, USA. It is untreated to retain the character of the original stone, and carries the pattern inherent in the material.

The selected jade is precision cut using CNC in a liquid environment. Each slice is just 1 to 1.2mm thick, and is glued to metal plates which is CNC milled to obtain the shape required for the dial. The final finishing to the slice of jade is hand polishing to ensure any chips or scratches are eliminated and to bring out the natural brilliance.

This slice of jade is translucent, and allows some light to pass through. This quality of jade is highly treasured, but as a dial, it is mounted on a brass layer to protect its integrity. A thin layer of varnish is applied on the back of the jade to prevent the brass plate from being visible.

The movement: HMC 804

The movement is the same HMC 804, in-house designed and manufactured in Schaffhausen movement first seen in the original Streamliner Tourbillon. The movement is visible from the case back, and casts a spectacular sight. The cutout in the dial reveals a very well finished flying tourbillon.

The huge rotor is emblazoned with the Moser name plate and rotates on its arbour of ball bearings. The main plates are in maillechort and beautifully decorated with the iconic Moser double côtes instead of the Poinçoin de Genève typical of haute horlogerie movements. The movement also showcases gold chatons held by flame blued screws holding one jewel. The tourbillon is visible from the dial side, and is quite splendid in its design, layout and finishing.

Movement finishing is judged to be excellent. All traditional haute horlogerie elements are address well.

Competitlve landscape

While the success of the Streamliner collection is not a surprise; the design is quite spectacular and very handsome. It is well built, and nicely appointed. The landscape in which it appears is the very heavily contested genre of the luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet. Pricing wise, it is also moderate for a special tourbillon in a full gold case with full gold bracelet. At CHF 109k retail, it is the same price as its Vantablack variant.

Thus, the usual suspects in this space presents itself. Of course, not all brands offer a tourbillon with their luxury sports watches. Audemars Piguet has perhaps the largest selection in their Royal Oak Tourbillon series, including a model which features a smaller case designed for the ladies. But Patek Philippe’s Nautilus does not have a variant with a tourbillon. Chopard’s Alpine Eagle collection does feature a model with tourbillon, but only in Lucent steel. Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas collection also incorporates several models with the tourbillon, though VC’s offerings are not flying. We have reviewed several, including a model in pink gold. Even Laurent Ferrier and Girard Perregaux has some skin in the game with their Grand Sport Tourbillon and the Laureato Tourbillon respectively.

But throw in the jade dial, and the competitive landscape shrinks. The Arnold & Son Double Tourbillon with their jade dial might be a consideration, but it does not have an integrated bracelet. It also carries a price tag of CHF 226,200, more than double the asking price of the Moser. Perhaps this is fair play as it is a much more complicated movement comprising of two completely independent tourbillon movements sharing a main plate.

We cannot think of another tourbillon luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet which sports a jade dial. Only the Jacquet Droz Grande Seconds Off-Centered comes to mind as a watch featuring a natural jade dial, but it is neither a tourbillon nor is equipped with an integrated bracelet.

Concluding thoughts

This is a very beautiful watch. With several exceptional elements. First is the very aesthetically pleasing design of the Streamliner case and bracelet executed in red gold. Second is the very beautiful and excellently finished caliber HMC 804 automatic movement. And finally, the appeal of a special dial material in the form of the natural Wyoming jade.

Though CHF 109k is by no means small change, it is par for the course for a gold watch with gold bracelet.