The perpetual calendar and chronograph combination is a classic in the world of horology. There is something special about a watch when it contains these two complications. Chopard for Baselworld 2016 has produced their first in-house perpetual calendar and chronograph. Introducing the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chrono.
The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chrono stands out with its 45mm diameter case made from 18ct “Fairmined” gold. The Ruthenium-toned sunburst satin-brushed and hand-guilloché gold dial makes the dial stand out. Further details of the dial include applied rhodiumed Roman numeral hour markers and the minute track with red accents. All of the hands for the perpetual calendar and the chronograph have been rhodiumed plated as well.
For the perpetual calendar the big date is read from the two windows at the 12 o’clock position, the day is in the inner circle at 9 o’clock along with the day/night indicator , the month and leap year indicator is located in the inner circle at the 3 o’clock position. The running seconds is located at the 6 o’clock position along the orbital moon phase. The 30 minute counter for the chronograph is located on the outer circle at the 3 o’clock position and the 12 hour counter on the outer circle at the 9 o’clock position. The chronograph seconds hand is red tipped to make it stand out. The flyback chronograph can record events for up to 12 hours. It is quite uncommon to find a perpetual calendar with a chronograph that can time for more than 60 minutes.
Powering the watch is the manually wound L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L. It has a power reserve of 60 hours The watches have been certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) have met the requirements for the Poinçon de Genève, aka the Geneva Seal. The Geneva Seal now encompasses the whole watch being tested. Formerly attributed to the movement only, the Geneva Seal currently puts the watch as a whole to the test.
The orbital moon phase requires a correction once every 122 years. The Calibre 03.10-L is built around a column wheel that controls all chronograph operations including the flyback function. The zero-reset system for the counters and the central sweep seconds hand is handled by progressive-contact hammers guaranteeing optimal precision. It ensures smooth yet firm activation of the timing-related components via a vertical coupling clutch. This was the exceptional base mechanism chosen to house the perpetual calendar of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono. Decoration applied to the back of the movement is Côtes de Genève.
Chopard is in fact the first luxury watch and jewellery company to have committed itself to supporting mining communities in order to help them achieve Fairmined certification. It contributes to training, to social well-being and to environmental protection. Fairmined certification ensures that gold is extracted in a responsible way by artisanal and small-scale mining organisations, that both miners and the environment are treated correctly and that purchasers pay a premium, in addition to the fixed gold price, to be reinvested in community projects.
Overall the new Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chrono packs a technical punch with its in-house perpetual calendar and chronograph, in addition to its top drawer finishing and certification by the COSC and the watch meeting the criteria for the Geneva Seal. At 45mm it may be on the larger side for some collectors.
The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Calendar Chrono will be offered in two precious metal cases. One in “Fairmined” 18ct white gold and the other in “Fairmined” 18ct rose gold. Both will be limited editions of 20 pieces each.
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18ct “Fairmined” gold
Total diameter 45 mm
Thickness 15.06 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
18ct gold crown with L.U.C logo 8.50 mm
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Exhibition back with glareproofed sapphire crystal
Hand-wound movement L.U.C 03.10-L
Total diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 8.32 mm
Number of jewels 42
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve 60 hours
Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
Chronometer-certified by the COSC
Poinçon de Genève
Dial and hands:
Ruthenium-toned sunburst satin-brushed and hand-guilloché gold dial, with beams radiating from the date – Snailed silver-toned inner bezel ring – red and black transfers
Rhodiumed Roman numerals and hour-markers
Rhodiumed Dauphine-type hands for the hours, minutes, small seconds, day and month counters
Baton-type rhodiumed red-tipped sweep-seconds hand
Functions and displays:
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Large date at 12 o’clock
Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
Off-set day/night display at 10 o’clock and offset leap-year indication at 2 o’clock
Orbital moon display at 6 o’clock
Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Time-setting with stop-seconds function
Strap and buckle:
Hand-sewn double-sided alligator leather strap dyed with plant-based pigments (CITES certified)
Pin buckle in “Fairmined” 18 ct gold
Ref. 161973-1001 – in “Fairmined” 18ct white gold 20-piece limited edition
Ref. 161973-5001 – in “Fairmined” 18ct rose gold 20-piece limited edition