To celebrate the 20th anniversary of Parmigiani Fleurier, the brand has made the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Chronor Anniversaire, a fully integrated chronograph with no added modules.
UPDATE: Full review now online here.
The Tonda Chronor Anniversaire with gold movement is available with either a white gold or rose gold case, each of which will be produced in a limited run of 25 pieces to mark this anniversary.
The dials feature ”grand feu“ enamel in two shades to match the choice of case. The first is white, one of Parmigiani Fleurier’s specialities, with the flawless, luminous texture that only enamel can bestow. The second is a deep blue which changes with the angle, turning a dark purple in some lights. This colour, called ”Bleu Roi“ (royal blue) is a new addition to Parmigiani Fleurier’s very rich palette of colours, and has been specially developed for the Tonda Chronor Anniversaire.
The watch features a split seconds chronograph. Its principle rests on an additional hand known as the ”split second hand“ which sits on top of the central chronograph seconds hand, or ”trotteuse“, and is permanently linked to it (when started, stopped and reset). However, once the central seconds hand is running, if the additional push-piece for the split second on the crown is activated, the hand comes out of the shadows: it stops, while the central seconds hand continues to run. After reading this split time, pressing the push-piece on the crown again will bring the split second hand back in line with the central seconds hand, to continue running alongside it. This manoeuvre can be repeated as many times as is necessary.
The split second hand is driven by the movement’s second column wheel, using a mechanism which indexes it to the chronograph’s central seconds hand and releases it for the split timing measurements. This complication requires a second kinematic chain, in addition to that of the chronograph, which presents a major challenge for adjustment.
In addition to the chronograph the watch features a big date. The large date appears at 12 o’clock, behind a double counter with gold appliques. The big date is also integrated into the movement to keep it as slim as possible.
The PF361 manually wound movement includes a chronograph, a split second function and a large date, all on the same main plate and is made from 18ct rose gold. The oscillation frequency is 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour). The higher the hertz, the more accurate the chronograph Its decoration, no less technical, required more than 50 hours of work for each unit. Each movement has bridges which are cut concentrically from the balance, with the latter framed as the epicentre of the fresco. These bridges are openworked to reveal the mechanism which beats at its surface, and the two symmetrical column wheels parallel to the crown’s staff. This assembly is enhanced by the sandblasted satin finish, while the internal angles on the bridges play with the light, accentuated by the gold’s reflections.
Finally, as a grand exclusivity for this Anniversary model, Michel Parmigiani’s signature is featured on the barrel’s drum and surrounded by a myriad of lug shapes, representative of Parmigiani Fleurier’s watch profile. This signature and the elements surrounding it were not engraved but on the contrary brought out, meaning that the whole surface surrounding them was lowered with a laser, allowing the emblems to stand emphasized. This constellation of symbols is unveiled gradually behind the openworked gold movement, as the barrel spins gently on its axis.
Our editor has seen the watch in person at SIHH and was very impressed by it. There will be a hands on review of the watch soon.
All versions will retail for $222,300 Singapore Dollars.
For more information please visit Parmigiani Fleurier
MOVEMENT PF361 – 18 ct rose gold
Power-reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 5 Hz – 36’000 A/h
Dimensions: 13 ½’’’ – Ø 30.6 mm
Thickness: 8.5 mm
drawn hand-bevelled main plates
FUNCTIONS Hours, Minutes
Small second at 6 o’clock
Chrono 1/10 sec – large second – 12h et 30 min counters
Split second rattrapante function
CASE Shape: 3-part round case
Dimensions: 42.10 mm
Thickness: 14.6 mm
Material: 18 ct rose gold
Water-resistance: 30 m
Glass: Anti-reflective sapphire
Crown: Ø 7.2 mm
Back engraving: Individual number
”EDITION LIMITEE XX/25“ ”1996-2016“
DIAL Colour: Blue or white
Index: White gold applied 18 ct
Finishing: ”Grand feu“ enamel coating
Hands: Delta-shaped with luminescent coating
BRACELET Material: Alligator
Colour: Black or Etruscan
BUCKLE Type: Ardillon