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Review: Mean and Green – The Patek Philippe Aquanaut “Jumbo” Ref. 5168G in Khaki Green

by Frank Chuo on May 23, 2019

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut “Jumbo” Ref. 5168G in Khaki Green

A little bit of background on the Aquanaut: When first launched in 1997, the original Aquanaut Ref. 5060A created quite a stir. The watch – matched with a tropical rubber strap – was a sportier, more casual reiteration of the classic Nautilus. It even shared the Nautilus’ rounded octagonal case design. The Ref. 5060A would soon evolve into the more refined Aquanaut Ref. 5167; the reference is still in production and is perhaps the Aquanaut that most are familiar with today. Fast forward to 2017 and the Aquanaut celebrates its 20th birthday. For the occasion, Patek Philippe presented a brilliant blue-dialed Aquanaut in a “Jumbo” format: the Ref. 5168G. The watch was 2.2 mm larger in diameter compared to the Ref. 5167 and, naturally, had its critics and proponents. This year, another Ref. 5168G is born, making it only the second variant of this relatively new reference. Enter, the Aquanaut “Jumbo” Ref. 5168G in khaki green.

The Case, Dial, and Hands

The case of this latest Ref. 5168G is completely identical to 2017’s seminal Ref. 5168G: 18K white gold, a sporty 42.2 mm in diameter, and a slender 8.25 mm in height. There are no changes to case finissage as well, as the same alternating satin and polished finish is still there.

In spite of being a sports watch, the Ref. 5168G has a slender case with an elegant profile.

What’s obviously changed, though, is the dial colour – from gradient blue to khaki green. The colour change grants the new Aquanaut an even more casual appearance. Of course, to match the dial, the watch is also paired with a khaki green rubber strap. The other elements on the dial – the hour and minute markers, the hands, the company marquee, and the date display – remain unaltered.

The hands and hour markers are coated in luminescent material for low- or no-light visibility.

The Movement

Driving the new Ref. 5168G in khaki green is the 213-part, 29-jewel Calibre 324 S C. This is the same movement used in the first Ref. 5168G. It has a power reserve of 35 – 45 hours and operates at a modern 4 Hz beat rate. The automatic movement incorporates some of Patek Philippe’s most notable innovations, including the Gyromax balance and the Spiromax balance spring.

The Calibre 324 S C

The view of the case back is gorgeous. Stamped with the Patek Philippe Seal, the brand ensures that the movement is finished to high standards. The 21K gold central rotor is decorated with circular waves and engraved with the Calatrava cross. The top surface of the bridges is finished with Geneva waves while their edges are chamfered and polished. The screw heads are polished to a sheen while the base plate is adorned with tight and even perlage.

The Competitive Landscape

The Aquanaut “Jumbo” Ref. 5168G in khaki green retails for USD35,000. While the watch does lead the pack in its genre, the competition from other brands shouldn’t be ignored.

The Ref. 5168G will slip under any sleeve with ease.

Last year’s Breguet Marine Ref. 5517 comes to mind as a worthy rival. Functionally, the Marine and the Aquanaut are indistinguishable. But from a design perspective, the Marine Ref. 5517 is far more ornate. The case is much more nuanced than the Aquanaut’s. In typical Breguet Marine fashion, the case features the brand’s iconic coin edge fluting and crown guard, as well as proprietary lugs. The dial is rendered in a stunning blue with engine turned motifs depicting the waves of the sea. The Calibre 777A that beats within is well-finished, with the top surface of the bridges striped to resemble a ship’s deck and the central rotor designed to look like a ship’s steering wheel. The watch in white gold is priced at under USD30,000. While not as collectible, the Breguet Marine Ref. 5517 at its price represents a solid alternative to the Aquanaut “Jumbo” Ref. 5168G.

The Breguet Marine Ref. 5517, much like the Aquanaut Ref. 5168G, is quite heavily lumed for visibility in the dark.

At exactly the USD35,000 mark though, one need not look further than the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding in gold. The watch is technically superior in a few ways, including anti-magnetic protection for up to 25,000 A/m, 15 bar water resistance, a 60-hour power reserve, and a strap quick-release system. It also comes with two straps at purchase: a rubber and an alligator leather strap, making it extremely versatile. The Calibre 5100 within does what the Calibre 324 S C does (central hours, minutes and seconds; date) and is finished to a similar level, as evidenced by its Hallmark of Geneva certification. The Overseas Self-Winding may indeed be the better way to go about spending USD35,000 – instead of the Aquanaut – if collectability is not a concern and if you like its design.

The Overseas Self-Winding also come in stainless steel and other dial colours.

Final Thoughts

The new Aquanaut “Jumbo” Ref. 5168G in khaki green, with its good looks, potential collectability, and relatively low entry price (in the grand scheme of things), is set for commercial success. Its larger case size and outgoing colour theme will attract younger (well-heeled) clientele, as well as veteran collectors who don’t mind Patek Philippe venturing into the contemporary.

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