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Review: TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph

A new hairspring
by Chester Lau on May 4, 2019
Reviews

TAG Heuer introduces the new Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon, an all black tourbillon chronograph with sporty yellow accents. TAG Heuer scientists have developed a carbon composite hairspring. Assembled atom by atom, from elemental carbon, it governs the oscillations of the balance wheel. This advanced component exhibits outstanding shock-resistance, is anti-magnetic, and offers optimum temperature performance.

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph

The 45 mm watch uses a fine-brushed titanium black PVD coated body case and carbon lugs and bezel. The watch is water resistant to 100 m and is fit with sapphire crystal on the front and back.

The movement used is the Calibre 02T, an automatic winding movement with 65 hours power reserve. Created and assembled exclusively at TAG Heuer, its technical construct ensures optimum precision.

The carbon composite hairspring is paired with an aluminum balance wheel including white gold inserts. The geometry and perfectly concentric oscillations are rooted in improved performance. Aesthetically, its minute revolutions mark the centrepiece of the dial.

In addition to being the first watch to be regulated by this carbon composite hairspring, the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon also presents two other complications, which are some of the most prestigious in traditional watchmaking: a tourbillon which cancels out differences in rate, and a COSC-certified chronograph, which meets the official standards for chronometers.

The nanoscopic (million times smaller than a millimetre) hexagonal pattern of the hairspring’s carbon composite material is mirrored in the design of the dial, creating a 3D theme with an even greater automotive inflection.

The multi-layered dial presents sand-blasted and finely brushed hexagons on the movement plate, which can be seen through the openworked dial. The motif can also be found on the black PVD-treated oscillating weight, revealed through a sapphire case back.

The watch is priced at $ 25,500 and is an additional $8500 compared to the all titanium variant, and an additional $4000 compared to the all black titanium and carbon version. This brings an average of 20-40% price premium for the new carbon hairspring and or carbon lugs and bezel.

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