IWC introduces a series of new watches for Watches & Wonders 2024. It is now the year of the Portugieser
Press Release with commentary in italics.
New: IWC Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024
Commentary
This is Portugieser year at IWC. A whole slew of Portugieser models are released. We will cover our impressions on the live highlights article when we handle the watches later. But for now, looking through the Press Release and an earlier carnet hands-on we had back in Singapore, we pick two to comment. With some live photographs.
Portugieser Eternal Calendar
Time, the basis is what a watch is used to tell. This year, IWC has gone back to the fundamentals of telling time but this case, its the Eternal Calendar. Eternal Calendar is a new movement that has the moon phase accuracy of 45 million years, exceeding the current World Record held by Andreas Strehler. A newly-engineered 400 years gear ensures that the calendar automatically skips 3 leap years over four centuries as per the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap year rules. What a mind blowing piece of engineering thinking that this is all ran by just mainly gears and springs. IWC has taken the pleasure of sharing with us how the Gregorian Calendar is derived and how the Greeks, Romans, Egyptians and Chinese used Lunar Calendar to measure time. On top of that, they went back to the fundamentals of telling how watch is a distance measuring machine by inviting a particle physicist and professor at the University of Manchester Brian Cox. A detailed review and a hands-on commentary when we see and handle the watch later.
IWC Portugieser Automatic
All these are just part of the introduction of this year’s Watches and Wonders focus on the Portugieser series. And from this huge range, we pick the rather basic Portugieser Automatic. But there is much to love about this novelty.
IWC have a re-engineered the case design and finishing of the dials. IWC is also offering this model in numerous colour dial options as well as case materials. Our pick from the bunch is the Portugieser Automatic 40 in 18 ct White Gold ref. IW358402, with a box sapphire crystal to showcase the gorgeous Horizon Blue dial that has a striking sunburst effect that will appeal to both men and their fairer half. The aperture of the sapphire crystal is also increased to showcase one of the most gorgeous. Finishing is above its price class, and we look forward to spending more time with this watch later to do a more detailed review.
Other models released include a Tourbillon, a Perpetual Calendar (with a moon phase with display accuracy of 577 years. Though pale in comparison to the accuracy on the Eternal Calendar, is still far ahead of the median of 122 years), and a Chronograph.
Press Release details
THE IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGIESER ETERNAL CALENDAR WITH MOON PHASE ACCURACY OF 45 MILLION YEARS
Schaffhausen/Geneva, 9th April 2024: IWC Schaffhausen introduces the Portugieser Eternal Calendar at Watches and Wonders Geneva. Drawing on the extensive calendar expertise it has acquired since introducing the perpetual calendar almost four decades ago, IWC now pushes the boundaries once again with its first secular perpetual calendar. In addition to recognising the different lengths of the months and adding a leap day every four years, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar also takes into account the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap-year exception rules. A newly engineered 400-years gear ensures that the calendar automatically skips three leap years over four centuries – an event which will occur for the first time in the year 2100. Another key feature of this watch is the extremely precise moon phase display. Thanks to a newly developed reduction gear, the Double MoonTM phase display will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an intricately finished platinum case and a black alligator leather strap from Santoni. The extensive use of glass elements such as a glass dial and double box-glass sapphire crystals showcases the ingenious mechanism inside. The increased transparency also creates a unique sense of lightness, airiness and understated elegance.
Translating the irregular calendar into a mechanical followed by a leap year. By design, it will interpret the program for a wristwatch remains one of the most challenging engineering feats in fine watchmaking. The Gregorian calendar, which is used across most continents and cultures today, divides the year into twelve months with 28, 30 or 31 days. Years that are divisible by four count as leap years, meaning that a 29th day must be added at the end of February. However, an additional correction is needed to keep the calendar in sync with the actual solar year: only those centurial years that can be divided by 400 are leap years, all others are common years. This means that 2000 and 2400 are leap years, while 2100, 2200 and 2300, for example, are common years. A traditional perpetual calendar, however, is only programmed for a four-year cycle, in which three common years are always
Translating the irregular calendar into a mechanical followed by a leap year. By design, it will interpret the program for a wristwatch remains one of the most challenging engineering feats in fine watchmaking. The Gregorian calendar, which is used across most continents and cultures today, divides the year into twelve months with 28, 30 or 31 days. Years that are divisible by four count as leap years, meaning that a 29th day must be added at the end of February. However, an additional correction is needed to keep the calendar in sync with the actual solar year: only those centurial years that can be divided by 400 are leap years, all others are common years. This means that 2000 and 2400 are leap years, while 2100, 2200 and 2300, for example, are common years. A traditional perpetual calendar, however, is only programmed for a four-year cycle, in which three common years are always followed by a leap year. By design, it will interpret the program for a wristwatch remains one of the most challenging engineering feats in fine watchmaking. The Gregorian calendar, which is used across most continents and cultures today, divides the year into twelve months with 28, 30 or 31 days. Years that are divisible by four count as leap years, meaning that a 29th day must be added at the end of February. However, an additional correction is needed to keep the calendar in sync with the actual solar year: only those centurial years that can be divided by 400 are leap years, all others are common years. This means that 2000 and 2400 are leap years, while 2100, 2200 and 2300, for example, are common years. A traditional perpetual calendar, however, is only programmed for a four-year cycle, in which three common years are always year 2100 as a leap year and need a correction. The same will happen again in 2200 and 2300. As a result, a perpetual calendar will need three corrections over a period of 400 years. A secular perpetual calendar like the Portugieser Eternal Calendar (Ref. IW505701), on the other hand, is mechanically programmed to take these complex nuances into account. It will calculate the leap year correctly until at least the year 3999, as it has not yet been officially decided whether the year 4000 will be a leap year or not.
“Since Kurt Klaus developed his legendary perpetual calendar in the 1980s, IWC Schaffhausen has accumulated unique expertise in mechanical calendars that are ingeniously efficient in their design and easy to use. With the new Portugieser Eternal Calendar, we now new moon to new moon – one lunation – does not last venture further than ever before, touching the limits of eternity. Our first secular perpetual calendar automatically takes into account the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap-year exception rules by skipping the leap year three times over 400 years. True to the spirit of engineers who are always pushing the boundaries, we have also fitted this technical marvel with a moon phase display that will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years,” explains Chris Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen.
THE 400-YEARS GEAR SKIPS THREE LEAP YEARS IN FOUR CENTURIES
The Portugieser Eternal Calendar is based on the same modular and synchronised design as the existing perpetual calendar. All its displays can be advanced using the crown. However, while the perpetual calendar is programmed for a four-year cycle, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an additional mechanism. Every four years at the end of February, a new module informs the calendar about whether the leap year takes place or not. This so-called 400-years gear completes only one revolution every four centuries. It contains three indentations, which cause the calendar to skip three leap years over that period. This module is designed with impressive efficiency and technical elegance and consists of only eight parts, underscoring IWC Schaffhausen’s engineering approach to fine watchmaking.
MOON PHASE WITH A CALCULATED ACCURACY OF 45 MILLION YEARS
Since the introduction of the perpetual calendar almost four decades ago, IWC has also taken great strides to continuously improve the accuracy of its moon phase displays. While the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW3750) from 1985 featured a moon phase precision of 122 years, the first Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (Ref. IW5021) from 2003 impressed with a moon phase accuracy of 577.5 years. IWC’s engineers have now taken on the challenge to develop a new moon phase display with unprecedented precision.
The difficulty in displaying the moon phase on the dial of a watch lies in the fact that the moon does not follow a daily rhythm in its orbit around the Earth. A cycle from new moon to new moon – one lunation – does not last 30 days, but rather 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.88 seconds. The duration of one calendar month must therefore be reduced as close as possible to one lunar cycle. This is achieved by placing a reduction gear between the base movement and the moon phase disc. The key to high precision lies in the quantity of wheels used, their proportions and the number of teeth they have. IWC’s engineers have now used a special computer program to simulate more than 22 trillion different combinations. For the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, they came up with a new reduction gear train using three intermediate wheels. Mathematically, the display will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years. Another challenge consisted in integrating this new gear train into the confined space of the eternal calendar module.
The moon phase is displayed on the dial using the characteristic Double MoonTM indication, which shows the moon as seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres. The display consists of two super- imposed discs. A celestial disc with two small circular openings rotates above an immobile lower disc with two dots. This negative representation gives the impression that two small moons are waxing or waning. Here, the lower disc is made of titanium and decorated with a Guilloché pattern. The upper disc is made of glass.
INTRICATELY CRAFTED GLASS DIAL AND DOUBLE BOX-GLASS
The Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an intricately finished platinum case with polished and brushed surfaces. Another highlight is the glass dial, which is manufactured in a complex process. In the first step, the underside of the dial is frosted and lacquered in white. The subdials are machined and polished separately and subsequently fixed onto the dial. In the next step, the printing is applied, and the appliques are mounted by hand. The depth of the glass lends the print and appliques a floaty lightness. The numerals and the characteristic Portugieser minute scale are printed on a white lacquered flange sitting between the glass dial and the front glass. The box-glass sapphire crystals are machined and polished in an elaborate process. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from the Italian leather artisan Santoni with a platinum folding clasp.
IWC-MANUFACTURED 52640 CALIBRE WITH SEVEN DAY POWER RESERVE
At work inside the platinum case is the newly developed IWC-manufactured 52640 calibre. The high-end calibre features a highly efficient Pellaton winding system. Using movements of the rotor in both directions, it reliably builds up a power reserve of seven days (168 hours) in the two barrels. Parts of the winding system that are subject to extremely high stresses are manufactured using virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic. The movement has been elaborately finished with circular graining and Geneva stripes and can be admired through the box-shaped sapphire glass case back.
THE IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGIESER HAND-WOUND TOURBILLON WITH A GLOBE-SHAPED DAY AND NIGHT INDICATION
Schaffhausen/Geneva, 9th April 2024: IWC Schaffhausen introduces the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night at Watches and Wonders Geneva. It combines an 18-carat Armor Gold® case with an Obsidian lacquered dial and gold-plated hands and gold appliques. The flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock consists of 56 parts and weighs only 0.675 grams. Another highlight is the innovative day and night display, which shows the eternal cycle of day and night with the help of a small sphere rotating around its axis. The globe-shaped day and night indicator is visible both from the dial and the movement side. The hand-wound IWC-manufactured 81925 calibre with gold-plated components can be admired through the sapphire glass case back.
The Portugieser stands out not only because of its pure and timeless design. The collection is also a testament to IWC Schaffhausen’s comprehensive expertise in fine watchmaking. Over the years, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has presented many Portugieser watches with high complications, ranging from different versions of its perpetual calendar and tourbillons to the astronomical displays of the Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia – to this day the most complicated watch ever made by IWC Schaffhausen. With its unique engineering approach to fine watchmaking, IWC develops complications that are ingenious, highly robust and reliable, and technically elegant in their design.
Adding to its legacy of high complications, IWC presents the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night (Ref. IW545901) with a polished and brushed 18-carat Armor Gold® case, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. Thanks to its improved microstructure, Armor Gold® is significantly harder and more wear- resistant than conventional 5N gold. The Obsidian black and highly polished dial radiates a tremendous depth and creates a beautiful contrast. The watch is fitted with a finely crafted curved black alligator leather strap from Santoni, a renowned Italian manufacturer of luxury shoes and leather accessories. The flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock is one of the most sophisticated complications in watchmaking. Assembling and fine- tuning this delicate mechanism is a task reserved for the most experienced master watchmakers at IWC Schaffhausen. The tourbillon places the balance wheel and pallet lever inside a small cage that rotates around its axis once every minute. This constant rotation reduces the influence of gravity on the oscillating system of the watch, thereby increasing its accuracy. As the tourbillon cage is stopped and accelerated several times per second, its total weight must be as low as possible. Although the mechanism consists of 56 individual parts, it only weighs 0.675 grams in total. The pallet lever and escape wheel are made of silicon and treated with a special diamond coating. This Diamond Shell® technology reduces friction and improves the flow of energy in the movement, contributing to the high power reserve of 84 hours. Thanks to the integrated tourbillon stop, the mechanism can be brought to a complete stop and the watch set with down-to-the-second accuracy.
A UNIQUE WAY TO SHOW THE ENDLESS CYCLE OF DAY AND NIGHT
Another highlight can be found at 9 o’clock: the 24-hour indication in the shape of a small planet. The globe has a dark and a bright side and rotates around its axis once every 24 hours, offering a captivating visualisation of whether it is currently day or night. The idea for this special day and night concept came from former watchmaker trainee Loris Spitzer and is a testament to the success of IWC’s trainee program and the culture of curiosity and innovation that the company fosters. The day and night indication is integrated into the newly developed IWC- manufactured 81925 calibre. As the movement is hand- wound and has no oscillating mass, the small globe is visible from the front and back. The gold-plated base plate is partly skeletonised to offer an unimpeded view of the barrel and other components. The movement is elaborately finished with circular Geneva stripes and can be admired through the sapphire glass case back.
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN RE-LAUNCHES THE PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL CALENDAR 44 IN 18-CARAT ARMOR GOLD® AND 18-CARAT WHITE GOLD
Schaffhausen/Geneva, 9th April 2024: IWC Schaffhausen launches the completely re-engineered Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. Available in four versions, two come in 18-carat white gold with Horizon Blue and Dune dials, while two models are presented in 18-carat Armor Gold®, with either an Obsidian or a Silver Moon dial. Elaborately finished with 15 layers of transparent lacquer and polished to a high gloss, the dials emanate tremendous visual depth. The case construction has been fully reworked and refined with a more slender case ring, combined with the use of double box-glass sapphire crystals. All new models are powered by the IWC-manufactured 52616 calibre with a Pellaton winding system and a power reserve of 7 days.
Over the last two decades, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar has established itself as a key pillar of the collection. Originally developed by IWC Schaffhausen’s former Head Watchmaker Kurt Klaus in the 1980s, the perpetual calendar complication has been continuously improved and perfected over the years. The first Portugieser with a perpetual calendar was launched in 2003. The moon phase display was enhanced with a larger reduction gear by taking advantage of the more generous case dimensions, increasing its accuracy from 122 to 577.5 years. Another innovation was the patented Double MoonTM display, which shows the moon phase as seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres. IWC Schaffhausen has now completely reworked and refined this model and presents four new versions.
The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503703) features an 18-carat white gold case, a Horizon Blue dial, and rhodium-plated hands and appliques. It is fitted with a gradient light-blue calfskin strap from Santoni. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503704) has an 18-carat white gold case, a Dune coloured dial, and gold-plated hands, and gold appliques.
It is combined with a black alligator leather strap from Santoni. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503702) boasts a case made of 18-carat Armor Gold®, an Obsidian black dial, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. Thanks to an improved microstructure, Armor Gold® is considerably harder and more wear- resistant than conventional 5N gold. This model is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from Santoni. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503701) impresses with an 18-carat Armor Gold® case, a Silver Moon dial, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. This fourth timepiece is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap from Santoni.
COMPLETELY REWORKED CASE CONSTRUCTION WITH DOUBLE-BOX SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS AND NEW DIAL FINISH
The most notable design change is the completely redesigned and refined case construction. The slimmer case ring features a more slender side profile.
In combination with the box-glass sapphire crystals on the front and the back, this new construction makes the watches particularly light and elegant. The box- glass sapphire crystal, milled and polished in a highly complex process, allows for an even better view of the iconic Portugieser design cues, such as the characteristic minute scale. The dial graphics have also been carefully reworked and refined. A particular highlight is the elaborately crafted dials. The key to their extraordinary visual depths is the application of 15 layers of transparent lacquer, which is fine-ground and then polished to a high gloss finish. The subdials displaying the calendar information are milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer. Finally, the appliques are individually mounted on the dials by hand. Comprising up to 60 individual steps, the production process for the dials is incredibly complex and challenging to master.
All four watches feature IWC’s signature Double MoonTM display. Inspired by nautical instruments, it shows the moon as it can be seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Thanks to a precisely calculated reduction gear, the indication will only deviate from the moon’s actual orbit by one day after 577.5 years.
The watches are powered by the IWC-manufactured 52616 calibre movement, which is assembled from 385 individual parts. The escapement has been improved to offer better protection against magnetic fields. The automatic Pellaton winding system features components made of virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic, while the oscillating mass is made of solid gold. Converting the movements on the wearer’s arm into energy for the mainspring, it reliably builds up a power reserve of 7 days in two barrels.
THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR WAS A MILESTONE FOR IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN
The introduction of the perpetual calendar in 1985 marked the beginning of IWC Schaffhausen’s comprehensive expertise in mechanical calendar complications. Kurt Klaus created a complication that is remarkable in many respects. All its displays are perfectly synchronised with each other and can be easily advanced via the crown. The calendar comprises only 81 parts, all housed in a module that is 1.5 millimetres high. With its ingeniously simple design, the complication perfectly embodies IWC Schaffhausen’s engineering approach to fine watchmaking, characterised by functionality, efficiency, and ease of use. The calendar is mechanically programmed for a cycle of four years. In addition to recognising the different lengths of the months, it automatically inserts a leap day every four years at the end of February. The mechanical program only requires a minor adjustment in centuries divisible by 100 when the leap year is skipped, for example, in 2100 or 2200.
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC NOW WITH SLIMMER CASE, DOUBLE BOX-GLASS AND NEW COLOUR CODES
Schaffhausen/Geneva, 9th April 2024: IWC Schaffhausen introduces new Portugieser Automatic 42 and Portugieser Automatic 40 models at Watches and Wonders Geneva. The watches feature a completely re-engineered case construction with a slender side profile, making them particularly elegant and refined. Box-glass sapphire crystals offer an excellent view of the dials, which are elaborately finished with 15 layers of transparent lacquer. Larger aperture sapphire crystals on the back showcase the IWC-manufactured movements from the 52000 and 82000 calibre families, both featuring Pellaton winding systems with ceramic components. Selected models are presented in new design codes with the dial colours Horizon Blue, Obsidian, Dune and Silver Moon. These colours reflect the never-ending cycle of day and night and underscoring the timeless appeal of the Portugieser’s design.
The origins of the Portugieser date back to the late 1930s, when IWC Schaffhausen used a high-precision pocket watch movement to create a distinctively large wristwatch with chronometer precision. Although its simple case shape and purist, easy-to-read dial were created more than 80 years ago, it can hardly be linked to that specific period. The Portugieser remains timeless and has retained its freshness to this day. Clean and open dials with applied Arabic numerals, Feuille-type hands and the characteristic minutes scale reminiscent of railway tracks ensure perfect legibility.
IWC Schaffhausen has now refined its timelessly elegant Portugieser watches on every level and presents a new collection of the Portugieser Automatic 42 and the Portugieser Automatic 40. All watches feature a carefully reworked case construction with a slender side profile, making them visually light and more elegant. The double box-glass sapphire crystals offer an even better view of the new dials and the IWC-manufactured movements inside.
The dials are the result of an elaborate and highly complex process. The brass bases are either treated with a sunburst finish or given a finely blasted surface before the colour is applied. The key to their unusually pronounced optical depth is the application of 15 layers of lacquer, which is fine-ground and then polished to a high gloss finish. The subdials are milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer. The three-dimensional effect is further emphasised by the printing, which is carried out in a special procedure and adds to the sensation of depth. To finish, the appliques are individually hand mounted. Finally, the dial graphics have also been carefully reworked for a perfect balance of lightness, elegance and legibility.
The Portugieser Automatic is distinguished by its balanced dial design with the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock. With the new Portugieser Automatic 42 (Ref. IW5017), IWC Schaffhausen now launches a timeless and modern instrument dress watch, which fully retains the DNA of the original Portugieser Automatic (Ref. IW50001) from the year 2000.
- 18-carat white gold case, Horizon Blue dial, rhodium- plated hands and appliques, gradient blue calfskin strap from Santoni with 18-carat white gold folding clasp (Ref. IW501708)
- 18-carat 5N gold case, Obsidian black dial, gold- plated hands and gold appliques, black alligator leather strap from Santoni with 18-carat 5N gold folding clasp (Ref. IW501707)
- Stainless steel case, Dune dial, gold-plated hands First introduced to the collection in 2020, the Portugieser
and gold appliques, black alligator leather strap with
stainless steel folding clasp (Ref. IW501705) - Stainless steel case, Silver Moon dial, gold-plated hands and appliques, black alligator leather strap with
stainless steel folding clasp (Ref. IW501701) - Stainless steel case, Silver Moon dial, blue hands and appliques, gradient blue alligator leather strap with
stainless steel folding clasp (Ref. IW501702) - Stainless steel case, blue dial, rhodium-plated hands
and appliques, stainless steel bracelet (Ref. IW501704
The new models are powered by the IWC-manufactured 52011 calibre. The escapement has been improved to offer better protection against magnetic fields. The Pellaton winding system is reinforced with virtually wear- free zirconium oxide ceramic components and builds up a power reserve of seven days (168 hours) in two barrels.
First introduced to the collection in 2020, the Portugieser Automatic 40 (Ref. IW3584) presents the essence of the Portugieser design with a more compact case size of 40 millimetres. Standing in direct lineage to the first Portugieser, Reference 325 from 1939, it features a clean and open dial with the small seconds at 6 o’clock and no date window.
- 18-carat white gold case, Horizon Blue dial, rhodium- plated hands and appliques, gradient light-blue calfskin strap from Santoni with 18-carat white gold pin buckle (Ref. IW358402)
- 18-carat 5N gold case, Obsidian black dial, gold-plated hands and gold appliques, black alligator leather strap from Santoni with 18-carat 5N gold pin buckle (Ref. IW358401)
Both models are powered by the IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre. Featuring parts made of zirconium oxide ceramic, the automatic Pellaton winding system builds up a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring.
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN LAUNCHES THE PORTUGIESER CHRONOGRAPH WITH HORIZON BLUE, OBSIDIAN, AND DUNE COLOURED DIALS
Schaffhausen/Geneva, 9th April 2024: IWC Schaffhausen launches three new versions of the Portugieser Chronograph at Watches and Wonders Geneva. The new dial colours, Horizon Blue, Obsidian and Dune capture the unique atmospheres of different times of day and night. The first watch features a Horizon Blue dial in combination with an 18-carat white gold case and a blue calfskin strap. The second boasts an Obsidian dial, an 18-carat 5N gold case, and a black alligator leather strap. The third impresses with a Dune coloured dial, a stainless steel case, and a black alligator leather strap. The models are powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre, a robust mechanical chronograph movement in classic column-wheel design.
With the Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante from The Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. IW371626)
1995, the chronograph arrived in the Portugieser family. Since then, this functional complication has brought a touch of sporty elegance to the collection. The IWC-typical vertical arrangement of the sub-dials places the stopped minutes directly at 12 o’clock, making them easy to read, while the small seconds are positioned at 6 o’clock. Another distinguishing design feature is the inner flange printed with a quarter-second scale, enabling high-precision stop-time readings. IWC Schaffhausen now launches three new versions of the popular chronograph in the new colour codes Horizon Blue, Obsidian, and Dune.
A particular highlight is the intricately crafted dials. The brass bases are first given a sunburst finish before the respective colour is applied. In the next step, 15 layers of transparent lacquer are applied, fine-ground and then polished to a high gloss. The totalisers are milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer. The printing, carried out through a special process, further adds to the three-dimensional effect. Finally, the appliques are mounted individually by hand. The complete manufacturing process for these dials comprises more than 60 steps and is highly challenging to master.
The Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. IW371626) features a Horizon Blue dial. Horizon is a light blue shade, reminiscent of the early afternoon sky during the sun-soaked height of the day. This colour is complemented by a polished and brushed 18-carat white gold case, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, and a gradient light-blue calfskin strap from Santoni.
The Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. IW371625) impresses with its Obsidian black dial, an 18-carat 5N gold case, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. Thanks to the lacquer finish, the dial emanates an incredible depth. The combination of black and gold captures the black of the night and the golden warmth of the city lights at night. The chronograph is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from Santoni.
The Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. IW371624) with a Dune dial is paired with a stainless steel case, gold- plated hands and gold appliques, and a black alligator leather strap. This combination reflects the mood in the late afternoon with the golden low sun. Thanks to the elaborate lacquer finish, the gold appliques appear to be floating above the dial.
ROBUST AND RELIABLE CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT
The Portugieser Chronograph is powered by the IWC- manufactured 69355 calibre, a mechanical chronograph movement engineered with a focus on robustness, reliability, and longevity. The column-wheel control of the chronograph function ensures that individual phases in the switching sequence are clearly defined. There is also a distinct tactile resistance when the buttons are pushed. Seamless integration with the basic movement and careful coordination of all components helps to ensure that the correct rates are maintained even when the chronograph is subject to intense use. Typical for IWC, the vertical arrangement of the subdials displays the stopped minutes directly at the 12 o’clock position and places the small seconds at 6 o’clock. This layout enhances readability and has become a distinguishing design feature of the Portugieser Chronograph.
