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SIHH 2017: The Indies Roundup

A round-up of Independent Watchmakers for SIHH 2017 with high resolution photographs
by Simon Neo on January 23, 2017

We present a detailed roundup of Independent brands present at the SIHH 2017, detailed reviews to follow shortly.

 

H. Moser & Cie.

Endeavour Concept Guilloche Collection

The Endeavour Concept Guilloche Limited Edition takes its design cues from a late 19th century pocket watch made by Heinrich Moser, the founder of the company. In this series, the dial does not feature any indices or logo to allow all attention to be centred around the guilloche work on the dial, all created by a master guilloche craftsman.

The Endeavour comes in either rose or white gold and is available with or without a diamond-set bezel which amplifies the elegance of the guilloche design. The rose gold version of the Endeavour is limited to just 10 pieces while the white gold model with a diamond-set bezel is not limited. Like all new models produced from H. Moser & Cie. as of 1 January 2017, the Endeavour Concept Guilloche will not feature the Swiss Made label on the dial as the label is not considered to be sufficiently rigorous.

 

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – ENDEAVOUR CONCEPT GUILLOCHÉ LIMITED EDITION 

Reference 1321-0117, rose gold model, sky-blue engraved dial, blue satin strap, limited edition of 10 pieces.

Reference 1321-0218, white gold model, sky-blue engraved dial, blue satin strap, diamond-set bezel.

Case 

18-carat rose or white gold, three-part, available in white gold with a diamond-set bezel

Diameter: 38.8 mm, height: 9.8 mm

Sapphire crystal

See-through sapphire crystal case-back

Crown adorned with an “M”

Engraved on the movement side of the case with “1 of 10”

Dial 

Sky-blue engraved dial

Leaf-shaped hands

Movement 

In-house, hand-wound, mechanical HMC 321 calibre

Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 ¼ lignes, height: 4.8 mm

Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h

28 jewels

Power reserve: minimum 3 days

Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions Original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil

Interchangeable Moser escapement

Functions 

Hours and minutes

Power reserve indicator on movement side

Strap 

Hand-stitched blue alligator leather or blue satin strap

18-carat solid rose or white gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo

 

Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept

At this year’s SIHH, we see H. Moser & Cie. getting creative with the Concept Collection, introducing a cosmic green dial which is eye-catching and visually appealing even though the dial has no logo or indices on it. The cosmic green Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept is available in either white or rose gold in a limited edition of 20 pieces each and is a great choice for those who prefer something unique in terms of colour choices.

 

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – ENDEAVOUR CONCEPT COSMIC GREEN LIMITED EDITION 

Reference 1343-0211, white gold model, cosmic green fumé dial, camouflage-style alligator leather strap, limited edition of 20 pieces

Reference 1343-0110, rose gold model, cosmic green fume dial, camouflage-style alligator leather strap, limited edition of 20 pieces

Cases 

18-carat white or rose gold, three-part

Diameter: 40.8 mm, height: 10.9 mm

Sapphire crystal

See-through sapphire crystal case-back

Crown adorned with an “M”

Engraved on the movement side of the case with “1 of 20”

Dial 

Cosmic green fumé dial

Leaf-shaped hands

Movement 

Mechanical hand-wound in-house HMC 343 calibre

Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height: 5.8 mm

Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h

28 jewels

Power reserve: minimum 7 days

Hacking seconds Double barrel Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions Interchangeable Moser escapement Original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil Gold escapement wheel and pallet fork Movement and components hand-finished and decorated

Functions

Hours and minutes

Central seconds

Strap 

Camouflage-style hand-stitched alligator leather

Solid 18-carat white or rose gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo

 

Endeavour Perpetual Calendar

The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar from this year’s SIHH features a new 42 mm case, the case has been enlarged and have its lines adapted to accommodate the HMC 800 calibre within it. The case size is ideal and features a more dynamic design. This release also sees a refresh in the dial design where we see a new date design being featured the 3 o’clock position of the watch. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity’s dial only features indices at both 12 and 6 o’clock position which is in-line with Moser’s minimalist design philosophy, same as other Moser models.

 

 

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – ENDEAVOUR PERPETUAL CALENDAR PURITY 

Reference 1800-0200, white gold model, midnight-blue fumé dial, black alligator leather strap with red leather lining, limited edition of 50 pieces

Case 

18-carat white gold, three-part

Diameter: 42.0 mm, height: 11.9 mm

Curved sapphire crystal

See-through curved sapphire crystal case-back

Crown adorned with an “M”

Engraved on the movement side of the case with “1 of 50”

Dial 

Midnight-blue fumé with sunburst pattern

Leaf-shaped hands and applique indices

Month indicated with a small arrow-shaped centre hand

Big date display

Movement 

Hand-wound HMC 800 Manufacture calibre

Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height: 6.3 mm

Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h

32 jewels

Power reserve: minimum 7 days

Hacking seconds

Double barrel

Interchangeable Moser escapement

Original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil

Pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold

Movement and components hand-finished and decorated

Functions 

Perpetual calendar with very large date window and month display via the small central hand

Hours and minutes

Offset seconds dial with hacking seconds function at 6 o’clock

Power reserve indicator on dial at 9 o’clock

Leap year cycle indicator on movement side and adjustment push-button

Double Pull Crown mechanism

Strap 

Hand-stitched black alligator leather strap, red leather lining

18-carat solid white gold folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo

 

Venturer Smoky Sapphire

The Venturer collection was inspired by the company’s pocket watches back in the 1960s and this release sees the company reinterpreting the design of the dials with diamonds and sapphires. The fumé dials alone are visually appealing with their unique colour characteristics and these are further enhanced with the addition of precious stones, creating an exceptional colour gradation effect that is certainly captivating in many ways. The Venturer Smoky Sapphire features the hand-wound HMC 327 Manufacture calibre that boasts of a power reserve of up to 3 days.

 

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – VENTURER SMOKY SAPPHIRE 

Reference 2327-0205, white gold model, set with diamonds, dial set with sapphires, blue alligator leather or blue satin strap, limited edition of 20 pieces

Case 

18-carat white gold set with 313 brilliant-cut diamonds, in three parts (3.77 carats)

Diameter: 39.0 mm, height: 11.9 mm

Curved sapphire crystal

See-through sapphire crystal case-back

Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”

Dial 

Entirely set with 375 brilliant-cut sapphires, in various shades (4.86 carats)

Leaf-shaped hands, blued

Movement 

Hand-wound HMC 327 Manufacture calibre

Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 ¼ lignes

Height: 4.5 mm

Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h

29 jewels

Power reserve: minimum 3 days

Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions

Moser balance wheel and original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil

Functions 

Hours and minutes

Power reserve indicator on movement side

Strap 

Hand-stitched blue alligator leather or blue satin strap

18-carat solid white gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo

 

Venturer Small Seconds Purity

The Venturer Small Seconds Purity is a product of combining the unique elements of different models from the H. Moser & Cie. collection; indices featured at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock position of the watch. The design philosophy of Moser has always been that of a minimalist where having “less is more” and this is apparent in the Venturer Small Seconds Purity. Like other Moser concept models, the logo is alsonot featured here to allow attention to be focused on the fumé dial and in the Venturer Small Seconds Purity, we see a sky-blue fumé introduced for the white gold model and the signature fumé for the red gold model.

 

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – VENTURER SMALL SECONDS PURITY 

Reference 2327-0207, white gold model, sky-blue fumé dial, beige kudu leather strap, limited edition of 100 pieces Reference 2327-0404, red gold model, fumé dial, brown kudu leather strap, limited edition of 100 pieces

Cases 

18-carat red or white gold, three-part

Diameter: 39.0 mm, Height: 11.9 mm

Curved sapphire crystal

See-through sapphire crystal case-back

Crown adorned with an “M”

Dial 

Sky-blue fumé or fumé with sunburst pattern

Applique indexes

Leaf-shaped hands

Movement 

Hand-wound HMC 327 Manufacture calibre

Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 ¼ lignes

Height: 4.5 mm

Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h

29 jewels

Power reserve: minimum 3 days

Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions

Moser balance wheel and original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil

Functions 

Hours and minutes

Small second

Power reserve indicator on movement side

Strap 

Hand-stitched beige kudu leather or brown kudu leather strap

18-carat solid red or white gold pin buckle, with engraved Moser logo

 

Swiss Alp Watch Minute Retrograde

The release of the Swiss Alp Watch Minute Retrograde sees H. Moser & Cie. embracing modernity in its design while also maintaining balance through the use of classic Haute Horlogerie methods . This release features a minute dial in “Grand Feu” enamel and a flamed-blued retrograde hand which is a stunning view where you can clearly see some resemblance of Hautlence design here.

This release features a curved rectangular case which showcases the great craftsmanship that goes behind making the watch. However, what makes the Swiss Alp Watch Minute Retrograde really appealing is the hourly rotation of the regulating organ on the mobile form movement, clearly visible from the opening on the dial. Both escapement and hairspring are produced in-house by Precision Engineering AG, a sister company of H. Moser & Cie. and HAUTLENCE. The Swiss Alp Watch Minute Retrograde also features the HAUTLENCE HL2.0 calibre which guarantees a 45-hour power reserve which is displayed at the 6 o’clock position of the dial.

This jumping hour model is driven by a chain system with 12 hinged links and the jump that occurs hourly tends to last from 3 to 4 second, allowing a good view of the movement at work through its smooth rotation.

 

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – SWISS ALP WATCH MINUTE RETROGRADE 

Reference 5900-0200, white gold model, minute dial in “Grand Feu” enamel, black alligator leather strap with carbon-effect finish for a matte look or beige kudu leather strap, limited edition of 10 pieces

Case 

Solid 18 carat white gold

Dimensions: 48.0 x 42.1 mm, height: 18.3 mm

Sapphire crystal

See-through sapphire crystal case-back and sapphire crystal on the side of the case

Crown adorned with an “M” Engraved as a limited edition

Dial 

Window revealing the mechanism

White “Grand Feu” enamel minute dial Half-trailing hours system displayed by a chain at 11 o’clock Blued retrograde minute hand

Movement 

HAUTLENCE HL2.0 automatic Manufacture calibre

Mobile form movement, with a regulating organ which completes one 60° rotation each hour

Hours displayed with a 12-link chain and hinged pallet system, controlled by a speed regulator which rotates 48 times with each passing hour

Off-centre rotor, oscillating weight made from 18-carat white gold

Dimensions: 37.8 x 33.2 mm, height: 12.4 mm

Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h

92 jewels

Power reserve: 45 hours

2 barrels: going train barrel and complication barrel

Original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil

Movement and components finished and decorated by hand (satin-finishing and drawing, hand bevelling, anthracite ruthenium coating and mirror-polished steel components)

Functions 

Half-trailing hours Retrograde minutes

Power reserve indicator

Strap 

Hand-stitched black alligator strap with carbon-effect finish for a matte look or beige kudu leather strap with Moser green leather lining

18-carat solid white gold folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo

 

Heritage Perpetual Moon

This year’s SIHH sees H. Moser & Cie. introducing a new line, the Heritage collection to its current lineup. The Heritage collection takes its design cues from H. Moser pocket watches where we see its cases featuring engravings and blue enamel on the case flanks. The Heritage Perpetual Moon also feaures the “Grand Feu” enamel on the dial and is complemented by hand-painted roman numerals and flame-blued swallow-tail hands to enhance its appeal. On the dial, we can also see a small centre hand which is discreetly positioned to be an AM/PM indicator, rotating once every 24 hours. The Heritage Perpetual Moon features the HMC 801 hand-wound Manufacture Calibre which is equipped with an interchangeable Moser escapement that boasts a 7-day power reserve.

 

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – HERITAGE PERPETUAL MOON 

Reference 8801-0200, white gold model, white enamel dial, blue alligator leather strap, limited edition of 30 pieces

Case 

Solid 18-carat white gold

Engraving and blue enamel on the case flanks

Diameter: 42.0 mm, height: 12.2 mm

Sapphire crystal

Dial 

White “Grand Feu” enamel

Hand-painted Roman numerals Indexes and hour and minute hands in the shape of a swallow’s tail, flame-blued

Centre seconds hand

Movement 

Hand-wound HMC 801 Manufacture calibre

Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height: 6.5 mm

Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h

28 jewels and screwed gold mounts

Power reserve: minimum 7-day with a double barrel

Bevelled ring and Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions

Interchangeable Moser escapement

Original Straumann Hairspring®

Traditional screw balance wheel with gold adjusting screws

Gold escapement wheel and pallet fork

Functions 

Hours and minutes

Small seconds hand and hacking seconds

AM/PM indicator – indices 12 to 6 o’clock representing AM and 7 to 11 o’clock representing PM Large moon-phase display

Power reserve indicator on movement side

Moon-phase adjuster push-button on the case flank

Strap 

Hand-stitched blue alligator leather

18-carat solid white gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo

 

Heritage Tourbillon

The Heritage Tourbillon, also another addition to the new Heritage collection features a design inspired by H. Moser pocket watches dating back to the late 19th century. The case is striking in design and is made from a blue engraved enamel and studded with diamonds. This release also features a “Grand Feu” enamel dial which has guilloche engraving and features the use of diamond setting techniques. This release acts as a link between the past and present for H. Moser & Cie., featuring vintage designs that have been further enhanced to accommodate modern mechanics within it.

The Heritage Tourbillon features the HMC-802 calibre which features a unique interchangeable tourbillon module that boasts a 3-day power reserve.

 

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – HERITAGE TOURBILLON 

Reference 8802-0400, 5N red gold model, pocket watch-type case, blue alligator leather strap, limited edition of 10 pieces

Case 

Pocket watch-type case in 5N red gold, diamond-set (32 diamonds, 0.31 carat) and enamelled

Diameter: 46.0 mm, height: 15.1 mm

Sapphire crystal

Dial 

White “Grand Feu” enamel dial

Hand-painted Roman numerals

Dovetail-shaped blued hands

Movement 

In-house automatic tourbillon calibre HMC 802

Diameter 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height 6.5 mm

Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour

Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system

Solid 18-carat red gold skeletonised rotor engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. company hallmark

Power reserve: minimum 3 days

Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions

Original Straumann Double Hairspring®

Interchangeable Moser minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonised bridges

Functions 

Hours and minutes

Strap 

Hand-stitched blue alligator leather strap

18-carat solid 5N red gold folding clasp with Moser logo

 

Swiss Mad Watch

A pretty unique watch that was designed in response to H. Moser & Cie.’s decision to remove the Swiss Made label, this release features a red fumé dial with white indices, taking its colour cues from the Swiss national flag. The Venturer Swiss Mad has almost all of its materials sourced from Swiss origins except for its case since there are no gold mines in Switzerland which still technically can be considered to be 100% Swiss with the current legislation. This release has most of the features one can find in the Venturer collection and like the latter, its design is inspired from H. Moser & Cie. pocket watches.

 

 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – VENTURER SWISS MAD

Reference 8327-0208, white gold model, red fumé dial, Swiss cowhide strap, limited edition of 50 pieces

Case 

18-carat white gold, three-part

Diameter: 39.0 mm, height: 11.9 mm

Curved sapphire crystal

See-through sapphire crystal case-back

Crown adorned with an “M”

Engraved on the movement side of the case with “1 of 50”

Dial 

Red fumé with sunburst pattern

White lacquered applique indices

Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands

Movement 

Hand-wound HMC 327 Manufacture calibre

Dimensions: 32.0 mm or 14 ¼ lignes, height: 4.5 mm

Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h

29 jewels

Power reserve: minimum 3 days

Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions

Original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil

Functions 

Hours and minutes

Power reserve indicator on movement side

Strap 

Hand-stitched cowhide leather strap

18-carat solid white gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo

 

Hautlence

At this year’s SIHH, Hautlence released the Playground Labyrinth and the Vortex Bronze. Both releases are uniquely different and have their own characteristics. The Playground Labyrinth features a game of skill that demands high level of concentration and good skill to play. The inspiration of using this game came from the co-founder and CEO of HAUTLENCE, Sandro Reginelli, as a reminder to ourselves to let our imaginations run wild and be as free as we want to be. Having said that, the Playground Labyrinth does not tell time at all which can be disturbing from a functional point of view. The Playground Labyrinth is priced at CHF 12,000 and is limited to 18 pieces.

The Playground Labyrinth

 

The Vortex Bronze is the second model of the Concepts d’Exception collection which features the combination of great watchmaking techniques and a brilliant design philosophy. This release features a self-winding HL2.0 calibre powering the regulating organ which rotates 60 degrees every 60 minutes to negate the effects of gravity. This release is visually appealing through the openwork design of the case, featuring six sapphire crystals that enhances the aesthetics of the watch. The Vortex Bronze is priced at CHF 170,000 and is limited to 8 pieces worldwide.

 

The Vortex Bronze

 

Technical Specifications of Labyrinth

Case

Case middle: satin-finished grade 5 titanium;

Horns, bezel, crown and screws: satin-finished and polished grade 5 titanium;

Glass: extra-hard bevelled sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment;

Back: satin-finished grade 5 titanium. 6 screws, engraved with “HAUTLENCE”, “Horlogerie Suisse”, “Playground-Labyrinth 01”, numbering;

Visible movement ;

Dimensions: 37 x 43.5 x 13 mm.

Movement

Mechanical lift including bevel gears; Number of jewels: 9;

Finish: sand-blasted, vertical satin finishing with diamond-lapped angles.

Dial

Labyrinth in 18-carat 5N gold, with vertical satin finish, diamond-lapped angles and 18-carat white gold ball;

Back finishing: Côtes de Genève motif.

Strap

Choice of Brown or Black, satin-finished Louisiana alligator leather, large square scales, hand-sewn rolled-edge;

Folding clasp: titanium with satin-finished steel plate.

 

Technical Specifications of Vortex Bronze

Case

Bronze

Horns: Bronze, screwed in;

Crown: Grade 5 titanium, polished with micro-machined HAUTLENCE logo;

Glass: 6 three-dimensional sapphire crystals, scratch-resistant, produced by multi-axis grinding;

Alternating finishes: sand-blasting, satin-brushing and hand polishing

Horn and case-back screws: Grade 5 titanium;

Dimensions: 52 x 50 x 17.8 mm;

Weight: 75 grams

Calibre

Calibre description:

2 barrels: one going train barrel (power reserve for the entire watch calibre including power for the second complication barrel) and a complication barrel.

Hours displayed by a 12-link chain hinged on a pallet system. The speed regulator ensures that the hour display changes in a controlled and jerk-free manner in 3-4 seconds instead of instantly. It completes 48 revolutions at each hour change. Hour system activated by a one-revolution mechanism mainly composed of a connecting rod and a rack.

Mobile bridge-type calibre comprising the regulating organ and rotating through 60° at each change of hour.

Movement kinematics featuring 90° changes of direction by means of special bevelled gears.

Automatic calibre with oscillating weight in 18-carat white gold.

This innovative calibre is protected by 3 HAUTLENCE patents.

Dimensions: 37.8 x 33.2 x 12.35 mm;

Manufacturing technology: multi-axis micro-machining, wire EDM, LIGA photolithography;

Number of components: 482;

Power reserve: 40 hours;

Regulating organ: 18,000 vibrations/hour;

Number of jewels 92;

Finishing: fine-watchmaking type (satin-brushed, hand-drawn, hand-bevelled, black rhodium-plated coating and mirror-polished steel elements);

Identification and numbering plate: HLR2.3 X/8

Dial

Upper sapphire dial face: white Superluminova® minutes and white hour-marker stickers;

Lower sapphire dial face: black sticker

Hour indices: metal underplate with black galvanic rhodium-plated coating hour numerals in white Super-Lumi-Nova®;

Minute hand: galvanic rhodium-plated coating with white Superluminova® tip;

Power reserve hand: galvanic rhodium-plated coating with red varnished indicator.

Strap

Black hand-sewn rolled-edge, rubberised padded Louisiana alligator leather, large square scales;

Brown Zora calfskin

Black rubber;

Spring bars for strap changes and screwdriver;

Folding clasp: grade 2 titanium with satin-finish steel plate.

 

HYT

Besides the release of numerous additions to its lineup such as the H1 RC44, H3 Iceberg, H4 Dragon and the H4 Nero, HYT has taken us by surprise again. The introduction of its two new releases, the Skull Jungle and the Skull Pocket watch goes to show the innovative element of the brand.

The Skull Jungle was designed specifically to the requirements of Axl Rose, Guns N’ Roses singer and the design was given a Damascus steel type treatment with a blue finish as requested by the singer. One of the notable design elements are the two side plates attached to the watch, at the 9 and 3 o’clock position and decorated with the Clous de Paris pattern, giving it a very unique look. The pieces comes in a 51 mm DLC titanium case which is pretty big and also features a metallized sapphire case-back that bears the singer’s signature on it. The Skull Jungle comes in a limited edition of 25 pieces.

 

The Skull Jungle

 

The Skull Pocket watch is another great addition to HYT’s lineup. Only limited to 8 pieces, the Skull Pocket comes in a 59 mm case made from titanium and black DLC titanium. This watch also features a specially-designed cover system to protect the dial and in addition, we see the introduction of a light source module that was originally designed for the Metropolis model. The watch truly comes to life when its night time, the light would emanate and glow to reveal the time which can be read around the circumference of the skull. An amazing and stunning watch to look at, to say the least.

 

The Skull Pocket

 

Technical Specifications of Skull Axl Rose

Case

DLC titanium with microblasted finishes

– diameter: 51 mm

– height: 17.9 mm

– rubber sheathed screw-down DLC titanium crown

– black DLC titanium dome at 6 o’clock

– side plate (3 o’clock/9 o’clock) with blue PVD Clous de Paris decoration

– domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the dial side

– screw-down metallised sapphire case-back with Guns’N’Roses logo transfer signed by Axl Rose

– water resistant to 50 metres.

Functions

Black retrograde fluidic hours; seconds

Movement: Mechanical with manual winding, exclusive HYT calibre

– 28,800 Vph, 4 Hz, 35 jewels

– bridges hand-bevelled and adorned with Côtes de Genève, rhodium-plated bellows

– 65-hour power reserve

Dial

Unstructured, with rhodium-plated Clous de Paris stud pattern, matt blue PVD indexes, hours indicated by a fluid

– skull made from Damascus steel with blue PVD treatment

– black hour dial with grey indexes

– seconds disc (left eye)

– power reserve indicator (right eye)

Strap

Black leather with adjustable cuff, blue topstitching, black DLC ardillon buckle

Ref.: 151-DL-47-NF-BV, limited edition of 25 pieces

 

Technical Specifications of Skull Pocket

Functions

Green retrograde fluidic hours, seconds

Case

Titanium and black DLC titanium with a customisable, leather-embossed cover

– diameter: 59 mm

– height: 20.6 mm

– two titanium screw-on crowns sheathed in black rubber at 2:30 and 4:30

– titanium dome with integrated cover release system at 6 o’clock

– side plate (3 o’clock/9 o’clock) with black DLC Clous de Paris decoration

– domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the dial side

– metallised screw-on sapphire case-back

– water-resistant up to 50 metres

Movement

Mechanical with manual winding, exclusive HYT calibre

– 28,800 Vph, 4 Hz, 35 jewels

– hand-bevelled bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève

– 65-hour power reserve.

HYT’s exclusive patented micro-fluidic module:

– Two multi-layer metal bellows

– Capillary tube in medical grade glass, with interior nano-coating

– Two immiscible liquids; one transparent and the other coloured with a highly resistant dye

– Thermal compensator with dedicated bellows containing a special liquid

– Ceramic fluid restrictors

Light mechanical module:

– system activation and winding function with push-button crown at 4:30

– micro-generator system triggered by pressing the push-button crown at 4:30.

Dial

Unstructured, with black PVD Clous de Paris stud pattern, grey rhodium-plated

indices, hours indicated by a fluid

– faceted skull with PVD treatment

– black hour dial with grey indices

– seconds disc (left eye)

– power reserve indicator (right eye)

Chain: titanium, with HYT customisation

Swivel clasps: titanium, with HYT customisation

Ref: 159-TD-49-GF-CH; 8-piece limited edition

 

Urwerk

At the SIHH 2017, we see Urwerk releasing two new models namely: the UR-T8, limited to 60 pieces and the UR-106 Flower Power, limited to 11 pieces.

The release of the UR-T8 was huge as it marked the 20th anniversary of URWERK and is the first transformable watch from the brand. The UR-T8 allows the user to switch case faces with a couple of clicks and in this release, a titanium shield is revealed when the case gets flipped over.

The titanium shield resembles a stealth black surface and the lines across the shield are finely cut to reveal a highly textured pattern. The UR-T8 also features 12 hours in groups of four on a three-armed carousel that sweeps across the scale of 60 minutes to show time both analogically and digitally. This carousel configuration can be considered to be one of the most elaborate ones done by the brand.

Another unique feature of the watch is the selfwinding system which features a glided spinning vane that is being used to absorb any vibration or movement of the rotor to ensure consistency. The UR-T8 comes in either a natural titanium finish or with a black PVD coating.

 

The UR-T8 with its unique finish and textured patterns.

 

Technical Specifications UR -T8
Movement
Calibre: Selfwinding UR 8.01
Balance: Monometallic
Frequency: 28,800v/h, 4Hz
Balance spring: Flat
Power: Single barrel
Power reserve: 39 hours
Winding system: Uni-directional rotor connected to a spinning vane

Finish: Brushed, circular grained and diamond-cuts

Indications
Satellite complication with rotating hours modules mounted on planetary gears

Case
Flip-over case in Grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 60.23mm X 48.35mm X 20.02mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM

 

URWERK UR-106 Flower Power

The UR-106 is unique because it is adorned with 239 Top Wesselton diamonds, a total of 2.53 carats worth of diamond, making this a very attractive watch. Another great distinction of its design is the decorative work on its casing where its engineers spent a lot of time and effort to materialize their flower designs. Also, both the carousel and the three satellites sitting within the piece are satin-finished and sanded by hand, all delicate pieces of work that takes excellent craftsmanship to perform.

 

 

Technical Specifications of UR-106

Mechanism  
Calibre: UR 6.01 self-winding, 48 hours of reserve power

 

Finishes: Beading, sanding, satin-finishing

Bevelled screw heads

   
Dial Central flower in white gold set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.184 ct); 3 small flowers in white gold set with 6 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.522 ct)

 

Sanded and satin-finished platinum

Hour satellites and carousel in titanium sanded and satin-finished by hand

Serrated minute track

Phases of the moon

Handed-painted hour and minute indications – SuperLuminova

 

Indications

 

Hour satellite; minutes, lunar phases

   
Casing  
Materials: UR-106 Flower Power steel casing and diamond set titanium crown
Dimensions: Width 35 mm; length: 49.4 mm; thickness: 14.45 mm

 

Glass: Sapphire crystal

 

Water resistance: Pressure tested to 30 m / 3 ATM

 

 

 

Christophe Claret

This year’s SIHH sees Christophe Claret introducing two new releases namely the Marguerite and the Maestro. The Marguerite is in the existing Margot line but this year’s model sees it being adorned with diamonds, more than 600 in total. In addition, the bezel and lugs are set with more than 380 diamonds of different sizes which enhances the Marguerite’s appeal to the fullest extent. The Marguerite is priced at CHF 88,000 and comes with a red alligator leather strap with red stitching which complements very well with the overall design of the watch.

 

The Marguerite

 

The Maestro is a great showcase of Christophe Claret’s magical touch in designing a watch whereby its glass dome features a full-view of the movement architecture and the famous Charles X bridges. This release features a seven-day power reserve, a cone-shaped large date display and a 3D MEMO function. The Maestro is priced at CHF 68,000 for the titanium version and CHF 76,000 for the 5N pink gold version and is limited to only 88 pieces worldwide.

 

The Maestro

 

Technical Specifications of Maestro

Movement

Caliber: DMC16, mechanical hand-wound

Dimensions: – Diameter: 36.25 mm

– Thickness: 10.50 mm (without the hands)

Number of components: 342

Number of jewels: 33

Power reserve: 7 days (approx. 168 hours)

Escapement: – Swiss lever escapement

– Balance-wheel with countersunk screws

– Balance-wheel oscillation frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)

Functions

– Pointer-type display of the hours and minutes

– Pyramid-shaped large date display at 5 o’clock, with tens

on the upper disk and units on the lower disk

– MEMO function between 3 and 4 o’clock: cone shape

adorned with a sapphire or ruby and a diamond serving to

remind the wearer of a commitment

Aesthetic features: – Stepped and skeletonized Charles X style bridges

– Skeletonized barrel and ratchet-wheel

Case

Diameter: 42 mm

Thickness: 16.06 mm

Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)

 

Technical Specifications of Marguerite

Movement

Caliber: MT115, self-winding

Dimensions: – Diameter: 35.70 mm

– Thickness: 9.67 mm (with hands)

Number of components: 245

Number of jewels: 36

Barrels: Two barrels

Power reserve: 72 hours

Escapement: – Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)

– Swiss lever

Functions

– Hours and minutes are indicated by two butterflies flying around the dial

– Dual display dial: time or “Il m’aime passionnément” (He loves me passionately)

– “He loves me… he loves me not” game incorporated into the selfwinding rotor visible through the display back

 

Laurent Ferrier

For this year’s SIHH, we see Laurent Ferrier introducing two new additions namely the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double F and the Galet Micro Rotor “Montre Ecole”.

The Galet Classic Tourbillon Double F features a refreshing new design of the dial where it offers a full view of the tourbillon mechanism while keeping the original design intact. The new design also entails having the interior angles being decorated from both sides as well as the need to increase space for the regulating organ of the watch. The Galet Classic Tourbillon Double F comes in a 41 mm white gold casing and like other Galet Classic models, the case features a circular satin-brushed chapter ring which gives the watch an elegant look.

 

The Galet Classic Tourbillon Double F

 

The Galet Micro Rotor “Montre Ecole” was inspired from 19th century pocket watches and makes use of traditional techniques from the past. The design philosophy for the watch was to develop a case with similar roundness above and below the wrist, like how pocket watches were converted into wristwatches back in the past. The Galet Micro Rotor comes in a 40 mm bassine case that is surrounded by two satin bands along with a matte finish to contrast with the polished. The curved surfaces of this piece makes it look elegant and captivates many.

 

The Galet Micro Rotor “Montre Ecole”

 

Technical Specification of Galet Classic Tourbillon Double F

Movement 

  • Calibre reference: LF 619.03
  • Hand-wound movement, chronometer-certified
  • Diameter: 14’’’ (Ø 31.60 mm)
  • Thickness: 5.57 mm
  • Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
  • Power reserve: 80 hours
  • 187 parts
  • 23 jewels
  • Central hours and minutes
  • Tourbillon carriage visible through the dial and case-back

Tourbillon mechanism 

  • Tourbillon, two top-to-tail balance springs
  • Two Geneva-type balance-spring stud-holders
  • Swiss lever escapement with steel escape-wheel and lever
  • Variable-geometry balance with gold adjustment screws
  • Peripheral tourbillon carriage driving system

Case 

  • 18K / 210Pd non-rhodium plated white gold
  • Three parts: case middle, bezel and snap-on case-back
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Thickness: including the sapphire crystal 12.70 mm
  • Sapphire crystal case-back
  • Water-resistant to 30 metres
  • “Ball-shaped” crown in 18K/ 210Pd white gold

Dial 

  • Circular satin-brushed chapter ring, silver-toned vertical satin-brushed finish in the center, accented further by a railway minutes track painted in slate grey. Roman XII – in a raised, powdered silver-toned grey transfer.

Hands 

  • 18K/210Pd white gold with black ruthenium treatment
  • Hours & minutes: “assegai-shaped”

Strap 

  • Dark blue alligator leather, hand-sewn, Alcantara lining
  • 18K white gold 16 mm pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp

 

Technical Specifications of Galet Micro Rotor “Montre Ecole”

Movement 

  • Calibre reference: FBN Calibre 229.01, automatic winding with pawl-fitted micro-rotor, 72-hour power reserve

− micro-rotor winding system fixed between the main plate and the micro-rotor bridge

− silicon escapement with double direct impulse on the balance

− a silent block shock protection type system for the micro-rotor

  • Indications: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
  • Movement diameter: 14’’’ = 31.60 mm
  • Movement thickness: 4.35 mm
  • Number of parts: 186
  • Number of jewels: 35
  • Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)

Case 

  • Stainless Steel
  • 40 mm three-piece bassiné case
  • Thickness: including the sapphire crystal 10.95 mm
  • Sapphire crystal case-back
  • Water-resistant to 30 metres

Dial 

  • Dark silver toned vertical satin-brushed finish
  • Minimalist small seconds with a snailed finish in the centre and a sandblasted outer section

Hands 

  • Hours & minutes: “assegai-shaped” hands in white gold
  • Seconds: baton-shaped in white gold

Strap 

  • Dark brown alligator leather, hand-sewn, Alcantara lining
  • Stainless steel pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp

Movement decoration 

  • Shot-blasting, known as microbillé, and mirror polishing for the parts in steel, including the balance cock.

 

MB&F

This year’s SIHH sees the brand pushing the boundaries once again and taking its adventure to the water with the latest release, the HM7 Aquapod which we have previously reviewed here. The piece takes its design cues from that of an organic jelly fish and features a central flying tourbillon on top of the concentric vertical movement architecture.

 

The HM7 Aquapod

 

Ressence

The brand released what it terms as the Dress Watch, the TYPE 1 “Squared” which we reviewed here. This release is thinner and smaller than other RESSENCE watches and features exclusive straps for both men and women. This piece also features the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) which drives the core movement of the watch and making it unique.

 

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