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SIHH 2017 Jaeger LeCoultre overview: Demonstrating rare crafts

by Jonathan Ho on January 17, 2017

For SIHH 2017 Jaeger LeCoultre is focused on composing a new chapter for the Rendez-Vous’ collection of women’s watches using the hallmarks of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares (Rare Crafts) – technical and artistic know-how showcasing impeccable precision and breathtaking craftsmanship. Yet despite the almost 45% of revenues coming from watches for women, the SIHH 2017 Jaeger LeCoultre showing extends this mastery of rare crafts throughout the entire collection extending to men’s watches and the new Master Control series of watches as well.

Updated with: SIHH 2017 Jaeger LeCoultre Master Control

Unveiled 25 years ago, the Jaeger LeCoultre’s 1992 Master Control collection exemplified the maison’s classic watchmaking philosophy. This SIHH 2017 Jaeger LeCoultre’s Master Control series seems even more fitting given the vintage inspired elements which runs in tandem with sartorial appetites of the day.

Charming vintage-inspired layout

With charming vintage leitmotifs, the SIHH 2017 Master Control series with retro blue accents like the blued stainless steel hands, subdials, fonts and minute indexes, accompanied by blue alligator strap all enhance the heritage appeal of the the series. That said, it’s the satin-brushed case playing off the dial’s opaline finish which allows the play of light to breathe life into the timepiece which really brings the Master Control range to life.

Master Control Date

With clean lines on the mid case and a perfectly rounded bezel, the Master Control Date is the purest reflection of the Master Control series. The signature 12, 6 and 9 numerals stand out while the date window forces the absence of the 3. It’s an ideal day to day watch driven by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 899/1 with its 22-carat gold oscillating weight.

Master Geographic

For SIHH 2017 Jaeger LeCoultre’s Master Geographic is departure from the type of world time watches we’ve become accustomed to. You know, the type where either the globe is represented dead centre of the dial or the ring of 24 world cities on a rotating perimeter disc on the fringes of the dial. The Master Geographic simplifies all that into a dail window at 6 o’clock displaying just 5 cities at a time while the crown at 10 mirrors its simplicity with user friendly setting of the secondary time zone.

Master Chronograph

A two-register chronograph like SIHH 2017’s Master Chronograph is simply the most retro-type watch one could have in a collection. Vintage styling joins modern design in this two pusher chronograph with twin sunk-in chronograph subdials and the tachymeter which runs on the perimeter of the dial rather than on the bezel. The 40mm watch lends sporty appeal with a touch classic elegance thanks to its retro aesthetic.

SIHH 2017 Rendez-Vous

At the heart of each Rendez Vous watch is an impeccably precise automated action coupled with the functional excellence of a scarce, precious treasure. The newest Rendez-Vous shows the techniques of watchmaking competence at its finest, both in technique and art – from the detailed decoration of its activity to the elegant accessory of its dial, in the fragile environment of its diamonds and sapphires towards the presentation of its timekeeping characteristics. The latest Rendez-Vous collection for SIHH 2017 is the result of the combined talents of watchmakers and craftspeople of theVallée de Joux Manufacture.

The launch of the moon phase as well as a brand new hour chiming “reminder” Rendez-Vous women’s watch, coupled with yellow and rose gold variants, a bigger case proportions and artistic straps, all reveal the popularity of the Rendez-Vous collection catering to craft, design and watch lovers alike.

Rendez-Vous Day & Night: Elegance Eternal

Rendez-Vous Night & Day is now available in three sizes for SIHH 2017 as well as in a choice of materials and an offering of steel bracelet or alligator strap in a spectrum of colours for different moods or moments of the day.

Not to scale, from Left: Rendez-Vous Day & Night Large and Rendez-Vous Day & Night Medium.

Rendez-Vous Night & Day Large

The SIHH 2017 Rendez-Vous Night & Day Large is available in a new 38.2mm proportions as well as quick change functionality for ladies to change their watch straps as often as the mood strikes them without the need for additional tools. Also, those who prefer something other than the gentle subtley of steel may opt for the elegant feminity of rose gold set with brilliant cut diamonds and alligator strap.

The graceful guilloché dial of the Jaeger LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night & Day Large allows the interplay of ambient lighting which delivers a nice visual warmth to accentuate the graceful aesthetic of the timepiece. Modest yet sophisticated, using its night and day display and fine floral hands, the craftspeople at Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre expresses rare crafts in refined form.

Rendez-Vous Night & Day Medium

A first for the Rendez-Vous collection is yellow gold, the precious metal chosen for its natural lustre and tone to match naturally to the skin. Complementing the gold case is an elegantly dressed silver dial in guilloche. When accentuated with pink leather strap, the Rendez-Vous Night & Day Medium  is a daring yey feminine sartorial statement which elevates the timepiece into a accessorial bijou.

Jaeger LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Sonatina Large Price SGD59,500 (purple with white gold) SGD42,500 (pink gold)

Rendez-Vous Sonatina Large

For SIHH 2017 Jaeger LeCoultre unveiled a new Rendez-Vous Sonatina Large, so named for its ability to chime a designated hour set and marked by a mysterious little star, hallmark of some of the Rendez-Vous range. The appointed hour chime is set by the star as the wearer orbits the star around the dial to the chosen hour. At the precise hour, a single hammer strike chimes a delicate tinkle of the selected time, a single musical note which explains the name – Sonatina.

Two Sonatina versions to mark time

Available in white gold with amethyst toned dial and brilliant cut diamonds on beel, lugs and case rim; or in rose gold with fine guilloche finished dial and blue steel hands, both editions share the gorgeous night and day indicator in a semi-circle aperture at 6am, complementing the rendez-vous hour chime star. Driving the two women’s watches is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new 735 Calibre automatic.

Jaeger LeCoultre Rendez-Vous-Moon Medium price SGD 49,600

Rendez-Vous Moon Medium

Prior to SIHH 2017, the moon phase complication was usually reserved for the high jewellery editions of Rendez-Vous; now the beauteous moon phase comes in pocket friendly editions like the Rendez-Vous Moon Medium and the Rendez-Vous Moon.

The Medium, available in steel or rose gold features a moon phase with fine elliptical guilloche appearing on dial and on the disc bearing the phases of the moon. It’s a high precision complication requiring adjustment every 972 years while the moon itself is an artistic wonder, varying with not just the faces but also changing colours as the hours pass.

Rendez-Vous Moon

Smaller than the Rendez-Vous Moon Medium, this variant is 36mm and embellished with gem-setting as envisioned by the Metiers Rares of the Grand Maison; the golden dial is a brilliant environment for the pearl moon and with its dainty proportions, is the most feminine of the Rendez-Vous collection.

With brilliant cut diamonds adorning both bezel and case rim, 26 diamonds complete a semi circle above the hour humbers which in turn becomes replaced by the pearl moon set in a bed of stars. Like the Medium, the Rendez-Vous Moon requires adjustment every 972 years to account for a day and once again, a star, emblematic of the Rendez-Vous collection appears on the periphery of the dial.

SIHH 2017 also presents New milestones for the Geophysic selection

Made in 1958 in honour of the International Geophysical Year, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic continues the tradition of technical precision hallmark of the first Geophysic. As a milestone, it is a symbol of Swiss knowledge par excellence in the rarified realm of high end watchmaking. The Vallée de Joux manufacture first introduced the Geophysic in 2015 with design codes powerfully classic and traditional but with technical improvements over the original such as new case proportions, higher legibility, luminova indicators and innovative Gyrolab balance wheel.

For SIHH 2017 Jaeger LeCoultre is introducing a flying tourbillon with simultaneous secondary time zone for 24 cities around the world.

Jaeger LeCoultre Geophysic Tourbillon-Universal Time

Introducing Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time

For SIHH 2017 the Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time is evidence of the Grand Maison’s watchmaking know-how and available in a limited edition of 100 pieces. In additional to the Geophysic Universal Time, the Geophysic True Second rounds up the Geophysic collection with user-friendly updates like the introduction of a new interchangeable bracelet – thus these models can be turned into a hardy daily wear watch with contemporary steel bracelet or as a dressy companion with leather strap.

Composed of five satin-brushed and polished links, the new bracelet is not only ideal for the water but well appointed office desk diving especially with the ingenious folding clasp which can be extended up to 5mm for easy adjustment and comfort. With lever system for the spring bars, strap changes are as simple as lifting a lever and changing it for a completely new look.

Jaeger LeCoultre-Geophysic True Second price SGD16,000

Geophysic True Second

For SIHH 2017, the popular Geophysic True Second with dead seconds complication is available in pink gold and steel. Its grained dial serves in contrast to clean sword hands and purist hour markers; a technical watch which hides its complexity beneath a placid, second per second beating hand in contrast to regular mechanical watches which sweep. Dead beat seconds or True Seconds are a complication from the age of marine chronometers which offer to the second precision timekeeping thanks to the quartz-like single jump per second for the seconds hand.

Jaeger LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time price SGD 23,500

Geophysic Universal Time

Where once the Geophysic was a tool for submarine commanders for diving beneath the arctic ice, the Geophysic Universal Time invites one to view at the world from above rather than below the ocean – dive into the lacquered blue guilloché dial with engraved oceans and continents in sunray finishing and on the perimeter of the dial, the world’s major cities in blue and red lettering.

The apparent complexity of the Geophysic Universal Time is diffused by the remarkable ease of use with single crown setting where similar watch offerings are set by way of pushers. When travelling, only the relevant hour needs to be adjusted for the changing time zones while universal time remains unabated.

Driven by the automatic manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 772 with Gyrolab balance, the reduced air friction from the non-circular balance wheel bequeaths the Geophysic improved timekeeping precision.

Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time price €130,000 excluding VAT. Price in SGD to be negotiated based on prevailing exchange rates

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Genius demonstrated Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time

A first for the Grand Maison, master watchmakers have joined flying tourbillon and universal time into a 43.5mm platinum case. Driven by the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 948, the SIHH 2017 Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time demonstrates exceptional readability, operation and a unique presentation of a 360-degree view of the world.

As highly artistic as the planisphere is, one cannot help but be drawn to the flying tourbillon which appears to “fly” free of a traditional bridge; instead the convex view of the dial is reminiscent of the face of a globe while intense blue lacquered ocean appears as a miniaturised ocean with the myriad of small spiral waves and relief which conjures the sensation of water. The continents themselves move across the central disc once every 24 hours following the pace of the tourbillon itself and the ever changing landscape.

High legibility comes courtesy of luminescence added to the points on the flange of the dial and the hands; while ease of use comes by way of simple setting via a single crown. The caseback exhibits the ingenuity of Jaeger-LeCoultre through high horology finishing, the solid gold monobloc oscillating weight and the blued screws.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Artistica mystérieuse for him.

His and Hers Hybris Artistica mystérieuse

Two new interpretations join the Hybris Artistica family this SIHH 2017 not just taking the art of watchmaking to new heights but also showcasing outstanding artistic talents of the Grand Maison. For SIHH 2017 Jaeger LeCoultre Hybris Artistica mystérieuse is comprised of three one-of-a-kind ladies’ models and a men’s model available in a limited edition of five.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Artistica mystérieuse for her. With its case and dial ornamented in ivy leaves covered in diamonds, the dazzle of the Hybris Artistica mystérieuse exudes grace worthy of any lady.

The His and Hers  Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Artistica mystérieuse are so named for their exceptional shared secret – a mysterious means of telling time without hands yet indicating hour and minutes with precision. On both masculine and feminine editions, the suspended orbital flying tourbillon on an architectural men’s dial or delicately forged women’s dial shows the hours by way of the tourbillon’s position on the dial. Meanwhile, the flange disc shows the passing minutes – in this instance, a yellow triangle pointer for the men and a red jewel for the ladies.

At its core, both SIHH 2017 Hybris Artistica mystérieuse for men and women are driven by the in-house Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 941, each modified slightly akin to made-to-measure to suit the requirements for the male or female counterpart of the Hybris Artistica mystérieuse – here a new orbital flying tourbillon, new oscillating weight, and a new carriage of a novel shape, greets the latest edition of SIHH.

Métiers Rares: Demonstrating rare crafts

This limited edition of three unique pieces in white, blue, or red is an occasion for Jaeger-LeCoultre to apply the infinite talents of its Rare Handcrafts “Métiers Rares”, such as skeletonisation or snow-setting, a technique that was invented and developed exclusively by the Manufacture’s artisans. On the ladies’ edition of the Hybris Artistica mystérieuse, many rare handcrafts or Métiers Rares are demonstrated – from the ivy leaf hand made with remarkable finesse to life-like proportions from any angle to the stunning mother of pearl tableau in set with gems or the practice of snow-setting, a technique pioneered by Jaeger LeCoultre, the lady’s edition of the Hybris Artistica mystérieuse feelings astonishingly smooth despite the many precious stones thanks to the mastery of the gem setter freely choosing the cut and positioning of individual diamonds of varying sizes in order to juxtapose and blanket the surface so as to cover the case completely. The result is a scintillating display of light and reflection while being so tightly compact that your fingers simply glide over the stoned surface.

On the reverse, an hand-engraved oscillating disc featuring a skeletonised finish that reproduces the hammered ivy leaf design greets you in a chorus of embroidered metal.

Technical Specs of the SIHH 2017 Jaeger LeCoultre Collection

Rendez-Vous Night & Day Medium technical specs

MOVEMENT DETAILS

  •  Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 898A/1
  • 28 800 vibrations per hour
  • 40-hour power-reserve
  • 204 parts •30 jewels •3.30 mm in height

FUNCTIONS

  • Hours, minutes, second, night and day indicator

CASE

  • Yellow gold
  • 34 mm in diameter, 8.52 mm thick
  • Water-resistance: 3 bar

Rendez-Vous Night & Day Large technical specs

MOVEMENT DETAILS

  • Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 898D/1
  • 28 800 vibrations per hour
  • 40-hour power-reserve
  • 204 parts
  • 30 jewels

FUNCTIONS

  • Hours, minutes, second, night and day indicator

CASE

  • Stainless steel or 18-carat pink gold
  • Bezel set with diamonds or non set
  • 38.2 mm in diameter, 9.71 mm thick
  • Water-resistance: 5 bar

Rendez-Vous Sonatina Large Technical Specs

MOVEMENT DETAILS

  • Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 735
  • 28 800 vibrations per hour
  • 40-hour power-reserve
  • 286 parts
  • 40 jewels

FUNCTIONS

  • Hours, minutes, second, night and day indicator
  • Alarm function and star indicating the rendezvous time

CASE

  • White gold or pink gold
  • 38.2 mm in diameter, 10.59 mm thick
  • Water-resistance: 5 bar

Rendez-Vous Moon Technical Specs

MOVEMENT DETAILS

  • Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 935
  • 28,800 vibrations per hour
  • 40-hour power reserve
  • 265 parts
  • 41 jewels

FUNCTIONS

  • Hours, minutes
  • Rendez-vous indicator
  • Moon phases

CASE

  • 18-carat pink gold
  • Bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds
  • Case-band set with brilliant-cut diamonds
  • Inverted diamonds on the crowns
  • 36 mm in diameter, 10.46 mm thick
  • Water resistance: 3 bar
Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time Technical Specs
MOVEMENT DETAILS
  • Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 948
  • 28,800 vibrations per hour
  • 48-hour power reserve
  • 375 parts
  • 42 jewels
FUNCTIONS
  • Hours, minutes
  • Flying tourbillon with seconds
  • Universal time (24 time zones)
  • Summer time indicator
  • 24-hour day/night indication
  • Setting the hour by one-hour jumps clockwise or anti-clockwise
CASE
  • Platinum
  • Diameter: 43.5 mm, Height: 14.87 mm
  • Water resistance: 5 bars

Geophysic True Second Technical Specs

MOVEMENT DETAILS

  • Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 770
  • 28,800 vibrations per hour
  • 40-hour power reserve
  • 275 parts
  • 36 jewels

FUNCTIONS

  • Hours, minutes
  • True Second
  • Date
  • Setting the hour by one-hour jumps clockwise or anti-clockwise

CASE

  • Stainless steel
  • Diameter: 39.6 mm; Height: 11.7 mm
  • Water resistance: 5 bars

Geophysic Universal Time Technical Specs

MOVEMENT DETAILS

  • Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 772
  • 28,800 vibrations per hour
  • 40-hour power reserve
  • 274 parts
  • 36 jewels

FUNCTIONS

  • Hours, minutes
  • True Second
  • Universal time (24 time zones)
  • Summer time indicator
  • 24-hour day/night indication
  • Setting the hour by one-hour jumps clockwise or anti-clockwise

CASE

  • Stainless steel
  • Diameter: 41.6 mm; Height: 11.84 mm
  • Water resistance: 5 bars
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