Panerai unveils the Submersible S BRABUS eTitanio in a partnership between the Panerai and German aftermarket auto tuner Brabus.
Press Release information with commentary in italics.
New: Panerai x Brabus Submersible S BRABUS eTitanio PAM01403
The new Panerai x Brabus Submersible S BRABUS eTitanio PAM01403 has a retail price of SGD 74,200 / EUR 52,000 inclusive of taxes. Limited Edition of 177 pieces.
Another release of the Submersible from Panerai, a family which is now 23 member strong. This time in a large 47mm case and in collaboration with the German automotive aftermarket tuning specialists known for their ultra luxury and high performance cars. Panerai calls the collaboration disruptive and spectacular, but from our analysis, this is somewhat a co-branding exercise for Panerai to access the affluent Brabus clientele. The watch is executed with all the known technology from Panerai.
Starting off with eTitanio case, which is made by direct metal laser sintering of recycled titanium obtained from pre-used titanium. This is an additive 3D printing process which we saw in Panerai since the Panerai Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM 578 back in 2016. The bezel is in Carbotech, and uses a diving anti-clockwise rotating bezel.
The movement is also taken from an existing Panerai catalog, the P.4001/S caliber has been used in many other PAM watches, but now executed as a skeleton caliber. The base movement is the P4001, which itself is a derivative of the P4000, their first automatic movement with an off-centre micro-rotor completely developed and made in the Panerai Manufacture at Neuchâtel. The P4000 is Panerai’s workhorse movement, appearing in many of their references. The skeletonised version seems to be new, though Panerai is working from the same blueprint to remove material from the movement as in the PAM 578. A cap over the rotor attachment prominently displays the Brabus logo on the dial side.
A model of the Submersible S Brabus is available in a full Carbotech case as PAM01283 for the same retail price. The model is also available as PAM01285 in Carbotech, but with different markings as Panerai’s Experiential Model for SGD 119,900. No further information on what the experience may be at time of publication. Panerai introduced the Expreiential Model in 2019, and is a masterstroke in marketing by Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué, by essentially shifting the focus on the watches into a unique proposition. Diving watches the ilk of the Panerai Submersible series are increasingly becoming commodities, and differentiation becomes difficult. Of course, Panerai’s linkage to its unique history, design and the innovative use of materials is on the positive side of the product equation. But the experiential aspect, as offered by these special edition watches make them unique selling propositions with no competition.
A DMLS Engineered Skeleton Timepiece
Intersecting design and engineering, Panerai distinguishes itself within the realm of high horological complications through its dedication to innovation, technical mastery and an unyielding focus on the finest details. Panerai’s timepieces are precise chronometers, embodying the brand’s relentless pursuit of horological expertise with a classic Italian essence. The new Panerai Submersible S eTitanioTM PAM01403 continues the narrative of disruptive and spectacular concepts in partnership with luxury mobility brand BRABUS.
The 47mm case is made of eTitanio, a 100% recycled titanium powder derived from pre-consumer scraps titanium alloy, and crafted using Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) technology. Panerai ranks is among the first and remains one of the world’s very few watchmakers to utilize this technique – resulting in a structure that is lighter in weight and characterized by a uniform appearance that is nearly impossible to achieve via traditional methods
Courtesy of a precise 3D printing process, the watch case materializes seemingly out of thin air, as it is constructed by adding material rather than removing it. Layer upon layer, titanium powder is fused together by high-power fiber optic laser sintering, transforming into a solid material and creating a shape from nothingness. In this meticulous process of precision layering, each pass of the laser results in an almost imperceptible but consistent addition, 30 microns (0.03 mm) thick. Most notably, this technique allows for the formation of a case band that is hollow inside, without compromising its strength or water-resistance. The DMLS titanium watch weighs a mere 115g, with the case alone coming in at 23.6g. This DMLS case is approximately 30% lighter than the standard titanium case.
At the heart of the Submersible S is one of Laboratorio di Idee’s high-end complications – the Skeleton Caliber. Showcasing a stripped-down movement, the skeletonized structure of the watch is achieved through a sophisticated watchmaking procedure that removes all unnecessary materials, drawing attention to the movement’s key components. The watch features a micro-rotor that ensures automatic winding, providing a power reserve of up to 3 days. A GMT function with a second bicolor hour hand and AM/PM indicator is also included, underlining the watch’s functionality and versatility. Patent has been granted for the DMLS titanium process, while other patented features of this timepiece include a security device for a watch control mechanism, a rotating bezel system, a lever with a rotating roller, a polarized date and a zero reset as well as a stop second movement.
The watch’s small seconds at 9 o’clock features a second reset for optimal time setting. An original Panerai creation is the patented polarized date, allowing the numerals to be visible only when passing through the opening without hiding the mechanism. With its skeletonized structure, the watch is notably lightweight, making it both functional and stylish. Details in red embody aesthetics inspired by the BRABUS design DNA.
The watch is paired with two distinct bracelets: the first, a bi-material black calf strap, and the second, a black strap made of 68% recycled PET from post-consumer wastes. PAM01403 is a boutique exclusive time, limited to 177 pieces worldwide, an homage to the year BRABUS was founded – 1977.
Panerai Submersible S BRABUS eTitanio PAM01403 Specifications
Automatic mechanical, P.4001/S caliber,
133⁄4 lignes, 7.36 mm thick, 31 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device. Two barrels. 341 components.
Off-centered oscillating weight in tungsten
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Second Time Zone, World Time, Calendar Aperture.
Power Reserve: 3 days
Diameter 47mm. eTitanio DMLS case and Carbotech anti-clockwise rotating bezel with graduated scale.
Screw titanium with DLC coating caseback.
See through sapphire crystal caseback.
eTitanio Safety Lock crown protection device. Sapphire crystal
Waterproof: 30 bar (~300 meters)
Strap: Calf rubber bi-material black, T/T, 26/22, BA, STD