New: Louis Erard x Olivier Mosset Le Regulateur

Louis Erard continues their onward march with exciting collaborations. This time, with Swiss artist Oliver Mosset on a curious and interesting interpretation of their Le Regulateur.

Press Release information with commentary in italics.

New: Louis Erard x Olivier Mosset Le Regulateur

The Louis Erard x Olivier Mosset Le Regulateur ref. 85237NN62 will retail at CHF 3,750. Limited edition of 178 pieces.

Commentary

The visual of the watch is rather interesting. Especially the release photograph shown here, with three parallel hands in an oblique.

How does one tell the time? All three hands are batons of the same shape, same length, same width. Look exactly the same, and pivoted right in the center (though the pinion is not visible). Two cues. One is positional. The top hand is the hour, the center is the minutes and the lower is the seconds. Ant the other cue is that each hand is marked with a little indentation circle. The hour is marked with the largest dot, followed by the minutes with a smaller one, and the seconds with the smallest dot. Not intuitive? Yes and no. While it does not follow the convention of watch hands, not even regulators, it follows good logic. And very clever. The same regulator movement as with their other Regulateur watches, the tested Sellita SW266-1. Without having to do any modification to achieve. What results is as Louis Erard pitched it, it is a work of art.

While we are not familiar with the artist Olivier Mosset, his official protrait certainly has character and his work is decidedly minimalist. And we love the black and white photograph of him.

The watch is quite stunning. Manuel Emch tells us that this is watch is the minimalistic extraction by systematic reduction of the elements which make up a watch face. The black on black monotone is of course low contrast, but visibility is aided somewhat by the play of textures.

The dial itself which is lacquered in shiny black and inlaid with silver glitter providing some differentiation to the satin finished, black PVD hands and case. At least when viewed at an angle.

Makes a good conversational piece. As with all Louis Erard creations. And also as with all Louis Erard watches, quite reasonably priced. This one, below the budget friendly CHF 4k.

Release information

Louis Erard breaks new ground, bringing its fine watchmaking to the world of contemporary art. A new collaboration with a historic and rebellious figure in abstract art, Swiss artist Olivier Mosset. A black-on-black model with sparkling inlays. Limited edition of 178.

A manufacturer of fine mechanical timepieces. A contemporary artist, figure of 60’s abstraction, gestures, objects, attitude. A meeting point between the two worlds lies somewhere between the Franches-Montagnes and Arizona, between Noirmont and Tucson. The result is more than a watch. An essay. A compendium. A few grams of polysemy, a bit of artist Olivier Mosset in a watch that strives not to become all art, but to keep telling the time. This watch is a frontier. On one side, the land of signs; on the other, the land of watchmaking. This watch is an invitation to cross this frontier, a journey. Of course, Olivier Mosset doesn’t just make art, he’s also a biker. “Easy Rider” in the Jura. An artist in “Watchland”. Everything is black: case, bracelet, hands. A pure work of art, with no labels, no logos. Only the dial contrasts, decorated with silver glitter. The hands are batons, hour, minute, second, three times the same, same length, same width, same rounded ends. There’s just one detail: the size of the hole that gives the direction, a minimalist reference, just enough to ensure that you don’t lose the sense of reading altogether.

This watch is an abstraction. A minimalist geometric reinterpretation of the regulator, whose three hands – minute in the center, hour at the top, seconds at the bottom – are mechanically separated. Normally, this improves precision and legibility. In this case, though, it is rather a work of art.

The artist’s codes have been translated into the watch’s design. Geometric reduction. Chromatic reduction. Flat colour tints. It’s all there. Then comes the dial, which takes up another aspect of Olivier Mosset’s work. The artist loves street culture, including motorbikes and cars, all of which have a place in his work. He adapts and presents them like sculptures. This watch evokes the look and feel of an automobile body with its metallic paint, black and glittering dial. This collaboration was initiated by Manuel Emch, director of Louis Erard and a keen connoisseur of contemporary art, of which Olivier Mosset is a leading figure since his participation in the B.M.P.T group – founded in Paris in December 1966 by Daniel Buren, Olivier Mosset, Michel Parmentier and Niele Toroni. Olivier Mosset had never designed an object, and certainly never a watch. But when Manuel Emch suggested this project, he let himself be drawn in, with amusement and a touch of sentiment. After all, he grew up in the Val-de-Ruz, in the watchmaking heartland of the canton of Neuchâtel, and his grandfather is linked to the history of Ébauches SA: “Time is a rather complex matter.” For the rest, Olivier Mosset relies on his biker credentials: “What amuses me about watches is their accessory aspect – a watch is useless today. It reminds me of the scene in “Easy Rider”, when they’ve just bought their bikes and are about to leave, Peter Fonda takes off his watch and throws it away.” He adds, in conclusion: “It’s in the collection that this collaboration makes sense.”

Erected as a work of art, each of the 178 timepieces comes with a red seal bearing the words “work of art – do not wear”. Two interchangeable bracelets complete the case, one signed by the artist. Shaking up the codes of watchmaking is the direction taken by Louis Erard through its artistic collaborations, which delight collectors and contemporary art lovers the world over. 

With Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Olivier Mosset, the watchmaking brand continues its initiatory journey. Other collaborations are to come, involving artists, craftsmen and independent watchmakers. Always limited to 178 pieces. This number holds significance, representing strength in unity.

Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Olivier Mosset ref. 85237NN62 Specifications

Limited edition of 178 pieces

Recommended retail price: CHF 3’750

Movement Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1 calibre, 11½’’’, Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels, 28,800 VpH (4Hz), élaboré grade movement, meticulously decorated, special openworked oscillating weight with Louis Erard symbol, approx. 38 hours of power reserve

Functions HMS

Hour hand at 12 o’clock, central minute hand, second hand at 6 o’clock

Case Sand-blasted stainless steel with black PVD treatment, Ø42 mm, lug width: 22 mm, lug to lug: 49.60 mm, thickness: 12.25 mm, 3 pieces, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, movement visible through the transparent black caseback, water resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m/165 ft), signature fir tree crown, caseback engraved with “Olivier Mosset x Louis Erard Limited Edition 1 of 178”

Dial Shiny black lacquered dial inlaid with silver glitter

Hands Satin-finish hour, minute and seconds hands with black PVD treatment

Strap Two black Baranil calf leather bracelets with tone-on-tone stitching, black calf leather lining, sandblasted stainless steel pin buckle with black PVD treatment, functional catch spring bars

enabling the strap to be changed quickly

Handwritten signature of artist Olivier Mosset on one of the two straps

Dimensions: 22/20mm width, 80/115mm length

Collaboration Watch developed in collaboration with atelier Olivier Mosset in a limited edition of 178 pieces