We look at two new releases this year, both in the same category, the automatic three hands and date. Two brands, one Japanese and the other Swiss. One of them is the press favorite and wildly worshipped Grand Seiko, and the other is Jaeger-LeCoultre, a master maison with hundreds of movements to its name.
1 on 1: Comparing the Grand Seiko SBGR305 and the Jaeger -LeCoultre Master Control Date
Since their release in Baselworld and SIHH, the Grand Seiko SBGR305 and the Jaeger leCoultre Master Control Date both enjoyed their fair share of good reviews. The Grand Seiko SBGR305 is the recreation piece limited to 968 pieces. And between that and the 1960s recreation, we picked the Grand Seiko SBGR305 for the comparison, given that it is non-homage, has a date feature and is overall closer in features to the Jaeger-LeCoultre.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre is significant as the maison’s latest release of affordable retro models. Adopting a Tudor, Longines type business strategy, Jaeger-LeCoultre released a series of three new Master Control models with two-tone sector dials. The new stainless steel models include the Master Control Date, Master Control Geographic with worldtimer complication and the Master Control Chronograph.
The value narrative – the changing tides of price
Grand Seiko has always been seen as the value buy. The honest Japanese brand that makes value for money watches. A country branding brainwash, imported from the auto industry. After all, who could resist quality in-house movements, beautiful dial and case finishing, that is priced lower than that other Swiss brand ETA-base monstrosity.
But how much longer can this narrative hold?
With the latest move to remove the Seiko branding, to let the “Grand Seiko” line run as a brand, prices for Grand Seiko watches are predicted to increase to match its new upscale image. The Grand Seiko SBGR305, limited edition of 968 pieces, cased in titanium, is priced at US$7200. So it seems, Grand Seiko is moving from the value category, to the premium category.
Conversely, Jaeger-LeCoultre, is embracing the value notion. Perhaps picking up from the success of Tudor and Longines, Jaeger-LeCoultre is targeting the more accessible value line by lowering price points. The Jaeger leCoultre Master Control Date retails at US$5700, 10% less than its predecessor Master control date priced at US$6350.
Sacrificing thinness for power – Should a dress watch be thicker than 10mm?
No offence to Grand Seiko die-hards, but the rhetorical question has to be asked. Should a dress watch be thicker than 10mm? Grand Seiko watches with the 9S calibers, are mostly if not all above 12 mm in thickness. Understandably, the movement has a 72 hours power reserve and is more on the thick side, but this thickness on a dress watch is confusing.
We have heard variations of exasperation from many, which mostly sung like “why can’t Seiko make a thinner case, or a thinner movement?”
Conversely, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date, measures 39 mm in diameter and 8.5 mm in height. A difference in height of 5 mm. That said, its movement runs with only 40+ hours power reserve.
Different styles, but both exceedingly well-executed
Different styles, the Japanese Grand Seiko has an overt masculinity in its blade polished angles on the case and hands. The applied indices have sharp defined edges and everything about the watch is sharp and bold. The watch uses a titanium case, and has a workhorse movement, with 72 hours power reserve and an accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds per day.
The Swiss Jaeger leCoultre however, has as softer look to it. For starters the case is 5 mm thinner than the Grand Seiko. Its lugs have a smooth sloping taper and its dial more subdued, with print indices on a brushed sector dial. Featuring a 43 hour power reserve, the watch runs on the caliber 899 which utilizes new technologies like ceramic ball bearings and a two-support balance cock for enhanced stability.
In terms of dial features, both watches are at the top of the game. The Grand Seiko has a beautiful frosted white dial with the centre piece blade edged hands, polished to perfection. Its applied indices are elaborate and the blued steel seconds hand tops off the dial side nicely. The Jaeger-LeCoultre has the best modern sector dial after Patek Philippe, easily surpassing IWC’s Portuguese handwinding released some years ago. And the skeleton blue syringe hands. All in the details. Subdued and less shiny, but you know you’ve got a winner.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre is our pick between the two. While it is arguably inferior in terms of case finishing, has a shorter power reserve movement, case material; steel vs titanium, its advantages are far more significant. Firstly, the 8.5 mm case thickness, highly important for a dress watch, the subtlety. The Grand Seiko is not anywhere close, at 13.6 mm, just about 1 mm shy of a Panerai 111. The JLC wins on value. Not so much the difference in price, but more the company’s intention behind the product. Lastly, the longevity and collectibility of the timepiece, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date has a far more distinct design as compared to the Grand Seiko, relative to their existing product lines.