We have covered Petermann Bedat quite extensively in the past. Including an atelier visit and details on their watch. A sample recently arrived in Singapore, and we went to view it with a friend who was keen to acquire one. Here are our Watchscape photographs of the Petermann Bedat 1967 Chapter 1 Seconde Morte.
As we have covered the watch quite extensively before, this article will focus on the photographs. For detailed descriptions on the watch, please refer to our earlier reviews:
Watchscapes: Petermann Bédat 1967 Chapter 1
The retail price for this limited edition of 10 pieces in rose gold (another 10 in white gold) is SGD 88,400 inclusive of GST
When we did the hands-on review, we had high resolution photographs which we took when we visited the atelier in Rennes, but at the time of our visit, the new case and dial design was not ready. And we published the hands-on with our own photographs for the movement, but using dial and case photographs supplied by Petermann Bedat. In this article, we show the watch as it was shown in Singapore.
The case, hands and dial
The case is 39mm in diameter (10.7mm high) and is inspired by the 60s era. The curves on the case sides which blend smoothly into the lugs are very sensuous. The bezel is rather thin, but raised in two rounded steps, giving dimension and depth.
The strap supplied for the sample was a rather dull, beige, calfskin strap. We found the strap to be very unattractive. The calf skin is understandable, as CITES certification for carnets can be a pain to procure, but Petermann Bedat would do better to put on a colour to offset the rose gold case. For fun, we did a quick Photoshop colour replacement for the strap, chosing Cordovan No. 8 as a substitute. Click on the link on the image caption for a look at that.
The dial detailing is superb, a product of Kari Voutilainen’s famous Comblémine dial manufacture. A central medallion with a frosted grained finish is set on a rose gold ring, and sits at the same level as the glass ring over the dial. Visible through the sapphire glass is the dial side of the movement, finished in straight graining. Also visible at about 3 o’clock is the hand setting keyless works mechanism, finished in a brilliant black polish with nice anglage.
The indices are transfer printed over the glass, and is thick enough to show up as a 3 dimensional appliqué. A rather nice effect. A black polished chaton holding the jewel of the fourth pinion is shown on the dial side. At the periphery, is a metal ring marked with railway track print of the minutes.
The movement: Caliber 171
The movement is the same as the earlier versions we have examined.
The base movement is a three quarter plate arrangement, with a back polished steel cap over the escape wheel. The seconde morte bridge is placed over the base movement.
This seconde morte mechanism carries the design’s double anchor system. This jumping seconds system is a very complex to manufacture and requires extreme skill and precision to adjust by hand to the hundredth of a milimeter. A very fine graining is applied to the upper surface of this bridge, with sides anglaged.
Details on how the movement works and the development are found in our earlier articles.
On the wrist, the 39mm case is a beautiful fit. The watch seems to glow in its own brilliance, reflecting on the light of the flash.
This is remarkable A seconde morte is not a common complication, and one made by a small independent maker in very small quantities is even more rare. The finishing is customizable, and in the samples we have seen are spectacular, with a magnificent eye to detail and really pleasing aesthetics.
Photographed in L’Atelier by The Hour Glass in Ion Orchard. Hasselblad H3D-39 with HC 4/120 Macro and HC 2.8/80 with H28 extension tube. Profoto strobes.