“When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie that’s Amore” from the song Amore, sung by the legendary crooner Dean Martin. These words are very befitting of the Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon which does something different to other timepieces regarding the moon phase and its place on the dial. We take a closer look at what makes this piece standout from the crowd.
The moon phase is a complication and accounts for the phases of the moon in relation to its orbit around the earth. For those who harbour a love for outer space and the universe, the moon phase provides both an aesthetic and astronomical detail to the dial. Usually the moon phase is visible through a small aperture in the dial located most of the time at the 6 o’clock position. For the HM Perpetual Moon, Arnold & Son had other ideas.
Case, Dial and Hands of the HM Perpetual Moon
The case is 18 carat red gold and 42mm in diameter. The case and the raised bezel have a polished finished and to contrast this the lugs of the watch have a brushed finish. The knurled crown is adorned with the logo of Arnold and Son. The watch does have presence on the wrist due to its size but sits flat and will have no issues fitting under a shirt cuff. The cream coloured dial is accentuated by the applied gold hour marks which also double as the 5 minute markers, the black minute track and gold sword hour and minute hands. The watch is complemented by a black alligator strap. The pièce de résistance of the watch is though is the extra large moon phase.
The Big Moon
The aperture for the moon phase on the HM Perpetual Moon is much larger than most. It occupies about 1/3 of the dial and is in the shape of a half moon. The moon phase disc is 29mm in diameter and is a stunning shade of blue featuring lacquered guilloché. To to contrast the blue, the hand engraved moon is made from gold and the disc also features golden stars. By enlarging the size of the aperture, Arnold and Son has made the moon phase take centre stage without it being too overwhelming. The blue of the moon phase disc complements the cream coloured dial nicely. The moon phase of the HM Perpetual Moon is accurate and only needs a correction once every 122 years which is done by the pusher on the side of the case.
Powering the watch is the A&S1512 calibre, no doubt a manufactured movement by Arnold & Son’s sister company La Joux-Perret. It is a manually wound movement, beating at 21’600 bph with a power reserve of 90 hours. It has been rhodium treated and features haute horlogerie finishing, with Côtes de Genève on the main plate combined with circular graining on the rachet wheel and barrel. The bridges have been chamfered by hand and have polished edges. Blued screws complete the aesthetics. All of this can be admired through the sapphire case back.
The moon phase complication is not a module and is completely integrated into the movement. To assist with the setting of the moon phase a second indication is present on the back of the movement which allows the user to accurately set the complication against the phases of the moon.
The Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon, is a watch that certainly catches the eye with the biggest single moon phase that we have seen on a wristwatch. It is priced at S$39,900 and is refreshing take on the moon phase complication. For the effort taken in regards to the moon phase disc and the finishing of the movement, the price seems reasonable but could be deemed a tad high even with a rose gold case. Overall it is a solid offering from Arnold & Son and for those with a love of the moon and stars, the HM Perpetual Moon will be at home on your wrist.