взять займ

F1 in Singapore: The watch related events that YOU can attend
Previous
RANDOM
Edouard Meylan CEO H. Moser provokes with Swiss Alps Watch
Next

Review: Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

With Analysis and High Resolution Photographs
by Nick Gould on September 13, 2016
Reviews
Positives

- Attractive moon phase complication that is much larger than other timepieces
- Nice contrast between dial colour and the blue/gold combination of the moon phase

Negatives

Price tag of S$39,900 could be deemed a bit high

Review of the Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

“When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie that’s Amore” from the song Amore, sung by the legendary crooner Dean Martin.   These words are very befitting of the Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon which does something different to other timepieces regarding the moon phase and its place on the dial.  We take a closer look at what makes this piece standout from the crowd.

arnold HM Perpetual Moon-oblique-crown

The Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

 

The moon phase is a complication and accounts for the phases of the moon in relation to its orbit around the earth.  For those who harbour a love for outer space and the universe, the moon phase provides both an aesthetic and astronomical detail to the dial.  Usually the moon phase is visible through a small aperture in the dial located most of the time at the 6 o’clock position.  For the HM Perpetual Moon, Arnold & Son had other ideas.

Case, Dial and Hands of the HM Perpetual Moon

 

The case is 18 carat red gold and 42mm in diameter.  The case and the raised bezel have a polished finished and to contrast this the lugs of the watch have a brushed finish.  The knurled crown is adorned with the logo of Arnold and Son.  The watch does have presence on the wrist due to its size but sits flat and will have no issues fitting under a shirt cuff.   The cream coloured dial is accentuated by the applied gold hour marks which also double as the  5 minute markers, the black minute track and gold sword hour and minute hands.  The watch is complemented by a black alligator strap.    The pièce de résistance of the watch is though is the extra large moon phase.

 

arnold-moon-wrist

The Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon on the wrist.

 

The Big Moon

 

The aperture for the moon phase on the HM Perpetual Moon is much larger than most.  It occupies about 1/3 of the dial and is in the shape of a half moon.  The moon phase disc is 29mm in diameter and is a stunning shade of blue featuring lacquered  guilloché.  To to contrast the blue, the hand engraved moon is made from gold and the disc also features golden stars.  By enlarging the size of the aperture,  Arnold and Son has made the moon phase take centre stage without it being too overwhelming.   The blue of the moon phase disc complements the cream coloured dial nicely.   The moon phase of the HM Perpetual Moon is accurate and only needs a correction once every 122 years which is done by the pusher on the side of the case.

arnold-moon-dial

The extra large moon phase that occupies nearly 1/3 of the dial.

 

The Movement

 

Powering the watch is the A&S1512 calibre, no doubt a manufactured movement by Arnold & Son’s sister company La Joux-Perret.  It is a manually wound movement, beating at 21’600 bph with a power reserve of 90 hours.   It has been rhodium treated and features haute horlogerie finishing, with Côtes de Genève on the main plate combined with circular graining on the rachet wheel and barrel.   The bridges have been chamfered by hand and have polished edges.  Blued screws complete the aesthetics.  All of this can be admired through the sapphire case back.

 

arnold-moon-back

The A&S1512 calibre visible through the sapphire case back.

 

The moon phase complication is not a module and is completely integrated into the movement.  To assist with the setting of the moon phase a second indication is present on the back of the movement which allows the user to accurately set the complication against the phases of the moon.

 

arnold-moon-mvt-detail

All in the details. The second moon phase indicator allows for an accurate setting of the moon on the front.

 

Concluding Thoughts

 

The Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon, is a watch that certainly catches the eye with the biggest single moon phase that we have seen on a wristwatch.  It is priced at S$39,900 and is refreshing take on the moon phase complication.  For the effort taken in regards to the moon phase disc and the finishing of the movement, the price  seems reasonable but could be deemed a tad high even with a rose gold case.  Overall it is a solid offering from Arnold & Son and for those with a love of the moon and stars, the HM Perpetual Moon will be at home on your wrist.

 

arnold-moon

The Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon.

 

Technical Specifications

 

Calibre:A&S1512
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement, hand-wound, big perpetual moon, 27 jewels, diameter 34 mm, thickness 5.35 mm, power reserve 90 h, two barrels, 21’600 vibrations/h
Functions: hours, minutes, bigp erpetual moon,  diameter disc: 29 mm, diameter moon: 11.2 mm, second moonphase
indication on the back for setting purposes
Movement decoration: nickel – silver movement, rhodium treated withHaute Horlogerie finishing: manually chamfered bridges with
polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes , blued screws
Dial:  18-carat red gold case: cream, translucent blue lacquered guilloché moon disc with golden moon and stars ; back dial: fine circular graining, rhodium treated, rendition of the 8 phases of the moon
Case: 18 –  carat red gold, diameter 42 mm, cambered sapphire with anti -reflective co ating on both sides, case back see- through sapphire, water -resistant to 30 m
What's your reaction?
I Love It
74%
Cool
23%
It's OK
0%
What?
3%
I Hate It
0%
powered by gf