Another salvo fired by the folks at Louis Erard in collaboration with Alain Silberstein. And yet another chance for a collector to own this Le Régulateur Tourbillon.
We got our hands on the new watch for a week on the wrist, and bring you this detailed review.
New & Reviewed: Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein
The Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein ref. 89356TT02.BTT82 will retail at CHF 15,900 excluding taxes. Limited Edition of 78 pieces.
The Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein story so far
Louis Erard is quite tightly knit with Alain Silberstein. Their first release, after the refresh by Manuel Emch was with Alain. We covered this back in 2019. But Manuel and Alain go way back, the first evidence is in the collaboration between RJ Romain Jerome (helmed by Manuel) and Alain.
And their partnership was to endure several more collaborations since the first 2019 Regulators. They collaborated in the Triptych in 2021, the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein x Watches of Switzerland Singapore, also in 2021. A Diptyque in 2022, two released with both Louis Erard and Silberstein with Stephen Silver, also in 2022. and in another Triptych with tourbillon in 2023. This novelty is a carry over from the last Triptych of 2023, then released with a khaki green dial. While in 2023, the tourbillon was only available in the triple watch set, this new release introduces the tourbillon as a stand alone offering.
The case, dial and hands
As mentioned, the watch is the same watch as the tourbillon in the 2023 Triptyque, but in a different base dial colour – black instead of khaki green. And for the first time for Louis Erard, in a titanium case.
The case is the same magnificent case design that adorns all the Silverstein collaborations. The movement is encased in what looks like cylindrical capsule, with a tonneau shaped frame embracing it. The “cylindrical capsule” is made in grade 5 titanium with a micro blasted matte finish. And the frame is in a polished grade 2 titanium finished, and though looks like it may allow some articulation of the capsule, is actually an extension of the case middle and thus rigidly attached. An interesting aesthetic note is the use of two different titanium grades in contrasting finishing. This gives the watch some depth, and character. The strap is attached via an unconventional lug system, which are designed like pull tab rings in micro blasted grade 5 titanium with the fabric strap passing through.
The dial layout and design remains the same as the 2023 release, with the noted change in dial colour. With the black dial, appearing like dark grey in our photographs, perked up by the playful touches in red, yellow and blue. The colours are on the hands and indices, and have a lego like playful character. The paintwork look to be very thick, with an almost plastic like appearance. Though this may seem a criticism, it is a kudos to the design and execution team, and works very well here! And very Silberstein!
The indices are 3 dimensional baton markers sticking out from a circumference ring marked in minutes. Details galore on the dial, even though at first glance it looks like a simple play of colours. For example, the hour sub-dial is finished with concentric circles (seen below), which from afar look like a solid silver disc. The dial does not feature lume.
At the 6 o’clock position, is a cutout to reveal the tourbillon. The entire dial aesthetic is very pleasing to the eye.
The movement
Of course the star of the watch is the movement. This is the BCP T02 calibre by BCP Tourbillons, by the Swiss Tourbillon King – Olivier Mory. This is the same movement as exists in other reasonably price Swiss tourbillons like Yema and Ba111od.
The movement finishing on the Louis Erard is judged to be good, though by no stretch of imagination qualifies as haute horlogerie. As high end is not the target market for Louis Erard, this level of finishing is appropriate. Noted finissage details are the circular Côte de Genève, a nicely black polished tourbillon bridge (inverted V shape) with edges finished in a good, clean anglage.
Competitive landscape
The competitive landscape is not well populated. Especially when considering that the non-traditional pairing of the tourbillon and regulator. The tourbillon and regulators are not usually found together in a watch, but here it both work together harmoniously. And at CHF 16k, the Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein is not exactly loose change, but we think still qualifies as reasonably and modestly priced.
But in exploring this topic, we need to highlight at least two other BCP Tourbillon watches. Both are made by Olivier Mory. All are the same basic movement. The Ba111od is least expensive option with their numerous Chapter 4 offerings. But these watches are not with a regulator dial layout. Neither is the Yema Yachtingraph Tourbillon Mareographe, which feature a mareograph (to indicate the tides) in addition to the tourbillon. The Yema is available in either steel or bronze cases. Both the Ba111od and Yema offerings are closer to the CHF 8k and CHF 10k price points respectively. So considerably less expensive than the Louis Erard. But we think the case can still be made for the Louis Erard. The case design merits some kudos, as is the regulator architecture. As well as the fantastical touches provided by Alain Silberstein.
Concluding thoughts
On the wrist, the watch is comfortable. The case capsule is 40mm, but the lug to lug measures 47mm. Looks large on paper, but the slightly curved frame sits very nicely on the wrist. And the titanium construction makes the watch very light. The fabric strap is soft, and no scratchy. It folds back on itself and adheres via velcro, looking very casual, in line with the aesthetics of the dial, case and hands. The Silberstein shapes and colour combinations make for an aesthetic which is both playful and uber cool.
We had a lot of fun with this watch. This is one of those loaners that when the time came to return the watch, we were genuinely reluctant, and were seriously entertaining thoughts of buying one for our collection. The aesthetics are playful and whimsical in its outward appearance, but this is a serious watch. The tourbillon and regulator layout are serious complications for serious collectors. We think this niche well exploited by Manuel Emch and Alain Silberstein is unique. And thus, we can make a compelling case for ourselves that this is a great watch. Only with 78 pieces are available, if you are as besotted as we are, get to your Louis Erard AD (Watches of Switzerland Asia in Singapore) and secure yourself one.
Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Specifications
Movement Tourbillon régulateur mechanical hand-wound, BCP T02 calibre, Ø31.80 mm, height: 6.50 mm, 19 jewels, 21,600 VpH (3Hz), circular decoration on the movement, approx. 100 hours of power reserve, tourbillon cage makes a complete rotation every 60 seconds
Functions Tourbillon HMS / Hour hand in a counter at 12 o’clock, central minute hand, seconds hand in a counter at 6 o’clock
Case Microblasted grade 2 titanium & polished grade 5 titanium, Ø40 mm, lug width: 22 mm, lug to lug: 47 mm, thickness: 11.80 mm, 2 pieces, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, movement visible through the transparent caseback, water resistant up to a pressure of 10 bars (100 m/330 ft), Alain Silberstein red lacquered signature crown with Louis Erard symbol, caseback engraved with “Louis Erard x AS 1 of 78”
Dial Matt black with silvered counter at 12 o’clock, white transfers, cut out at 6 o’clock to see the tourbillon, black flange with white transfers featuring yellow and red indexes
Hands Alain Silberstein signature hands: red lacquered hour hand, blue lacquered minute hand and yellow lacquered second hand
Strap Black nylon and microblasted grade 2 titanium, hook-and-loop fastener system for quick adjustment, functional catch spring bars allowing the strap to be changed quickly
Dimensions: 22.70 mm width, 225 mm length, suitable for a wrist circumference of 140 to 200 mm
Collaboration Watch developed in collaboration with Alain Silberstein in a limited edition of 78 pieces
Photo Notes
The Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein was photographed in our studio with the Fujifilm GFX 100 II with GF 110mm/f5.6 T/S lens (review of the 100Mp camera and Tilt/Shift lens, together with the GF 30/f5.6 T/S coming soon) and GF 50mm/f3.4 lens with 18mm extension tube. Lighting by Profoto and Canon flash.
