Watches and Wonders 2025: Peter and Stanley’s Top 3 Picks. An Inside Look at the Event with a Special Video LIVE from Hôtel Palafitte.
Compared to last year, the exhibiting maisons seem a little more bullish about the market—and it shows. From the A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual to the Vacheron Constantin Soleria Ultra Grand Complication, there were more repeaters than before. Jaeger-LeCoultre revived their Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater and even Roger Dubuis showcased a return to its roots with a Grande Complication.we saw some truly show-stopping pieces.
WWG 25: Peter and Stanley’s Choice of the new watches
On Saturday April 5, Peter and Stanley sat down in Hôtel Palafitte and did a special video discussing the week that had just passed.
But the optimism hit a speed bump with news of a new tariff imposed by the U.S. President, casting a shadow over the buzz at Palexpo. You could feel the ripple—from murmurs among journalists to furrowed brows on CEOs. As we left Switzerland, the effects was not yet felt. Most were shocked, and few have had time to strategise. On the day of our departure, we learned that the US government had given a 90 day pause. We guess, the effects will remain to be seen when it comes to effect. And it will be interesting to see how the industry moves.
YouTube: WWG Top 3 Picks from Peter and Stanley
Peter’s Top Picks
Rolex Land Dweller
Rolex pulled off an amazing new release this year. The Land Dweller is a watch with many firsts for Rolex. This is the first Rolex to feature an in-house invented escapement. This is the first Rolex to have a high beat 36,000 bph movement. This is the new case shape, available as 36mm or 40mm nominal diameter and either in Rolesor, Everose, or Platinum. Factory gem set models are available in addition. The new case reminds me of the ref. 1530 and Oysterquartz models from the 1970s. With a brand new integrated bracelet design which Rolex calls the Flat Jubilee is also introduced. The fluted bezel and intense white dial with a honeycomb motif is used in the 40mm. On the wrist, the watch feels very slim and comfortable. And the motif on the dial is less apparent than in the photographs.
For the nerds, the movement is particularly interesting. The Calibre 7135 is visible through the sapphire glass case back. But more importantly, it features a brand new escapement system which features two escape wheels which are on the same plane which mesh with each other to provide the impulse to lock and release the single Syloxi balance wheel. This system beats at 5Hz and has a 66 hours of power autonomy. Rolex calls this new system the Dynapulse, and the inspiration comes from no other than A.L. Breguet’s échappement naturel. But using the latest manufacturing technology (DRIE) and materials (silicon).
For the first time Rolex abandons the reliable Swiss Anchor and went for its own invention. Like all things Rolex, the maison does not take things lightly. The movement took 10 years to develop (imagine even with the vast resources which must be available to them) and a full 5 years to test. At least 32 patent applications and patents pertain to the Land-Dweller. 18 are exclusive to this model and 16 of those are thanks to the caliber 7135.
And all this, for a starting price of CHF 13k for the 40mm model in stainless steel and white gold (Oystersteel and white gold – in Rolex terminology, Rolesor).
Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon
This is Czapek’s 10th anniversary. And as hinted by Xavier de Rouquemaurel during our visit to the manufacture, there are several novelties to celebrate this landmark. This new Flying Tourbillon is the first. More to come in the next few months. But back to the Flying Tourbillon.
In the familiar Antarctique case now lies the first completely designed, tested and manufactured in-house movement for Czapek. The layout is linear and is visible from the dial side. The barrel and canon pinion are housed in rather elaborate bridges, and the tourbillon is left naked, so to speak, in the flying configuration. The dial has a very special hand guilloché pattern and the entire watch aesthetic is just perfect.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual Winding
Another watch with near perfect aesthetics. My next pick is the VC Traditionnelle Manual Winding. As simple as a watch gets. And yet as attractive and seductive as ever. As part of the 270th Anniversary celebrations of the maison, it carries the motifs of he event. The dial features a guilloché pattern which is new and a symbol of the significant milestone. The design features lines which criss cross at the bottom left of the dial, and as they cross each other, makes the motif of a Maltese Cross, the symbol of the maison.
The movement also features what VC calls Côtes Unique, a special and new pattern of waves made on the movement plates in place of the more standard Côtes Genéve. The côtes are ruled close to each other, and forms a curve instead of just straight lines. The impression is not dissimilar to that of an enlarged finger print.
Stanley’s Top Picks
This is my second year attending Watches and Wonders, and the excitement still hasn’t worn off.
Anyway, I digress. Let’s get into the good stuff: here are my top three watches from Watches and Wonders—and a few wildcards from outside Palexpo that stole the show.
Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire
First up: my favorite watch this year—the Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire. Now, I know what you’re thinking: Really? A fashion house over the traditional watch maisons? But hear me out!
The Arceau Rocabar de Rire genuinely made me smile at the fair. It’s a bit like meeting someone stunning, only to discover they’ve got a wicked sense of humor too.
What immediately caught my eye was the playful “on-demand impulse” animation, activated by a pusher at 9 o’clock. Press it—and the horse sticks out its tongue! That little moment of whimsy stuck with me throughout the fair. It was a reminder to have fun, take it easy, and not take everything too seriously—especially in an industry that sometimes leans a little too hard on tradition and seriousness.
On the technical front, the Arceau Rocabar de Rire is powered by the Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement—a self-winding caliber beating at 28,800 vph, with a 50-hour power reserve. While those specs might not raise eyebrows compared to what many maisons offer, what really interests me is the story behind the movement’s maker. The H1837 is an in-house movement produced by Vaucher, in which Hermès holds a 25% stake. The finishing is exactly what you’d expect at this price point—clean, thoughtful, and refined. And the movement architecture? Pure Vaucher. This is the same respected manufacture behind calibers used by the likes of Parmigiani Fleurier, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille.
Beyond the movement, what really elevates this piece is Hermès’ hands-on approach to craftsmanship. The French luxury powerhouse produces not only its own movements, but also the cases and straps in-house. The white gold case is stamped from a single block at their case manufacture in Le Noirmont, Switzerland. Meanwhile, the colorful horsehair marquetry stripes and the signature Hermès leather straps are crafted in their workshop in Brügg. That level of vertical integration—and the attention to artistry—is seriously impressive. It shows just how much dedication Hermès brings to watchmaking, far beyond what you’d expect from a so-called “fashion house.”
Louis Moinet Time to Race (Fuji White/Rush)
Next up: Louis Moinet’s latest Time to Race— and wow, the new colourway is absolutely stunning.
I’ve always had a soft spot for the Time to Race collection. The mono-pusher chronograph oozes racing DNA, just as Jean-Marie Schaller, the brand’s visionary founder, intended. From the use of titanium and carbon fibre in the case construction to the bold white sub-dial—reminiscent of racing numbers painted on the side of a car—it’s a dream come true for any car-loving kid who never quite grew up.
Each Time to Race edition is limited to just 99 pieces per colourway, and the large racing numeral on the white dial is individually numbered, making every watch feel like a pièce unique in its own right
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph
My first love is back! Sitting in the presentation room during the Touch and Feel session, I was instantly transported back to the moment I first got my hands on the TAG Heuer Formula 1, 20 years ago. Fast forward to today, and TAG Heuer has released a new Formula 1 model in a range of playful colourways. Of them all, my favourites are the blue bezel and blue dial combination, as well as the Singapore limited edition, which will only be available during the F1 Singapore Grand Prix.
Outside WWG: Time to Watches and Masters of Horology
Ba111od Flying Tourbillon
Finally, Thomas Baillod and Olivier Mory have made my dream come true! They’ve just unveiled a flying tourbillon priced under USD 14,000. And let me tell you—that’s madness! Sure, the one we saw was just a prototype, conceived within just six weeks, but it was nothing short of captivating. For collectors like me who are mindful of their budgets but still crave the elegance of a flying tourbillon, this is the ideal watch to own.
Haute Rive is the brainchild of Stéphane, who takes craftsmanship to a whole new level. He personally cuts all the bridges and main plates by hand—a rarity in modern horology, where most of these components are usually produced by CNC machines. But what really blew my mind? The Honoris I that Stéphane wore on his wrist, which boasts a staggering 1,000-hour power reserve. Now, that’s next-level madness!
Next, let’s talk about a watch with a pusher crown that really got me intrigued. It is not new as the first models were released in 2021. But this is a simplified concept by Candaux, offering better accessibility to his watches.
As always, the finishing on this piece is absolutely amazing—at the haute horology level, it’s a work of art. As Peter always says, independent watchmakers are the true boundary pushers in the industry, and David Candaux’s DC7 is certainly one of them.
The DC7 is a stunning example of innovative, independent watchmaking. Its design is a harmonious mix of symmetry and asymmetry, thanks to the meticulous 30° inclined flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock, along with the balance wheel that’s tilted an additional 30° within the cage. This unique configuration minimizes gravitational errors, which improves timekeeping precision.
But it’s not just the movement that impresses. The DC7’s case is made from Grade 5 titanium, and it features a 44mm asymmetric case with a sapphire case back to showcase the movement’s intricate details. The dial has a deep, smoky green hue, achieved through anodizing the titanium, with sunburst finishing for that added wow factor. And every detail is hand-finished, from the mirror-polished bevels to the distinct “Côtes du Solliat” stripes on the movement.
What really sets the DC7 apart, though, is the “magic” crown. Positioned at 6 o’clock, this secret crown unlocks under pressure and offers three positions: neutral, reset, and winding. It’s a functional and ergonomic design that further proves David Candaux’s innovative approach to user interaction.
Next up, Kallinich Claeys, a brand founded by two young gentlemen from Germany who used to work for A. Lange & Söhne. This independent watch brand made a strong debut at the fair, and the piece that truly caught my eye was the Hong Kong Edition of their Einser Zentralsekunde. All 8 pieces of this limited edition are already sold out, and it’s easy to see why.
What sets this piece apart? The guilloché dial on the front is simply stunning, exuding a timeless elegance, while on the back, the bridges are all hand-engraved, showcasing the craftsmanship and attention to detail. The level of finishing is exceptional, making it clear that these two founders—who both came from A. Lange & Söhne—are pushing the boundaries of independent watchmaking. The Hong Kong Edition is a true work of art, blending technical precision with aesthetic beauty. I can’t wait to see what these rising stars of horology come up with next.
Final Thoughts
This year was certainly one for the books—a year where big pieces were unveiled, but the mood was undeniably affected by the news of the tariffs. Despite that, we witnessed some truly exceptional timepieces at Watches and Wonders, as well as at the peripheral fairs. We continue to see the boundaries of traditional watchmaking being pushed, with new innovations that are setting the stage for the future of horology.
But while the innovations are exciting, the most important takeaway is how, at the heart of it all, we continue to fall in love with the art of horology. It’s not just about the mechanics, the passion, or the craftsmanship—it’s also about how each watch tells a story that resonates with us personally. We love watches because they speak to us in a way that goes beyond the surface; they pull at our heartstrings, whether it’s an affordable piece that reminds us of a special moment or a high-end masterpiece that stirs us with its complexity and history. Every watch has a story, and we connect with it in our own unique way—it’s that emotional bond that makes horology so captivating, no matter the price tag.
As we look ahead, the future of horology is filled with even more exciting possibilities. We can’t wait to see where the next fair takes us and what new innovations will redefine our understanding of timekeeping.
