The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano combines the dual timezone complication of the Duoface with the aesthetic of the Tribute collection, complemented by a magnificent new Fagliano strap. We got hands on with it, and bring you this report.
Retail price for the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is S$ 34,900 inclusive of GST. This model is a limited edition of 190 pieces, exclusively available only in JLC boutiques worldwide.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano
2021 will be the 90th Anniversary of the vaunted Reverso from Jaeger-LeCoultre. Created in 1931, at the height of the Art Deco period, the Reverso was designed for the fashionable sporting gentleman. Originally intended for polo, the integration of forma nd function, and the clean lines to the flip over case makes it suitable for the pursuits of the day. It is also one of the most recognisable and iconic watches the world has seen. And perhaps the most popular rectangular cased wristwatch in the market.
The case, dial and hands
The watch is reminiscent of the Jaeger LeCoultre Grand Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 Chocholate Dial we covered in our article on the Best of SIHH 2014. The 2014 watch as also executed in pink gold, and it had a chocholate coloured dial, which at a glance is rather similar hue to the burgundy red in the Tribute Duoface. The movemennt was the JLC Caliber 822/2 which only showed one timezone, while the current model is equipped with the Caliber 854A/2 showing two timezones, one on each side. Also though both cases are nominally the Grand Reverso case size, the Ultra Thin 1931’s case measured 46.8mm x 27.4mm x 7.3mm thick, while this latest 90th Anniversary Tribute measures 47mm x 28.3mm x 10.3mm.
Another comparison might be the Reverso Tribute Duo, which is basically the same watch, but in a different aesthetic. The Reverso Tribute Duo is still available on the current JLC catalog, S$15,900 in a steel case.
The dial design on the main face is classical Art Deco Reverso style, with appliqué markers and Dauphine style hands. The hands and markers are faceted, and catch light in quite a pleasing manner, contrasting beautifully with the dark burgundy lacquered dial. A rectagular railway track marks off the minutes, and the seconds is shown as a subsidiary sub-dial.
While the reverse dial features a silvered grey and velvety Clous de Paris guillochage. The hour and minutes sub-dial is separate the subdial which carries a 24 hour indication. Aesthetically this form the nice inverse figure of 8 motif which is countersunk off the dial. And functionally, this 24 hour dial serves as a Day/Night indicator when the reverse dial is set for Home Time.
The hour markers are also gold appliqué and the hands are also Dauphine.
The Reverso case sits in its own carriage which slides over the base plate, allowing it present both faces, each with a different timezone. Particularly useful for both travel as well as international conference or Zoom calls. This second time zone is adjusted by a small slider set into the top case-band which is not visible except when the case is released from the carriage to be flipped over. The case mechanism is classic Reverso, very smooth, well engineered and beautifully finished. The case proper, which slides on the carriage is nicely finished, and beautifully polished.
The Casa Fagliano strap is a new creation, and inspired by the canvas-and-leather boots that it makes for summer polo. It features a combination of cordovan leather and canvas, and presented in the same burgundy red as the dial. Each strap is hand-cut and hand-stitched at Casa Fagliano.
The movement caliber 854A/2
The movement within is the JLC caliber 854A/2, which is a derivative of the ultra-thin JLC caliber 849, and is used in all the Reverso Duoface models.
This movement is not visible, as there are two dials. But we are satisfied that it is finished to the usual JLC standards. We have examined either through the sapphire case back like the Editor’s JLC Reverso Platinum 2, or in the factory when the movements have been removed from the cases, the C.854 is well finished .
The movement runs at 21,600 bph for a power reserve of 45 hours, has 21 jewels and measures 17.20 mm x 22 mm, 3.8 mm thick.
We hesitate to include a Competitive Landscape section to this review because as far as we know, there is no other watch which feature two timezones in two dials, which can be flipped over.
Perhaps the closest we can think of is the Hamilton Jazzmaster Face to Face II released in 2016. But this is a totally different beast, except it too features two dials which and a case which can be flipped to show either. The mechanism design for the case flip is a very clever arrangement. One one side is a standard timekeeper showing the hours, minutes and seconds, and the flip side shows the chronograph indicators. One single ETA sourced movement powers the Jazzmaster Face to Face II, while an earlier version the Jazzmaster Face to Face (2013) uses two movements. So not two timezones, and the case cannot be flipped without removing the watch from the wrist. But retail is only S$5,730 in a steel case. Limited Edition of 1,999 pieces, which is now sold out.
Beautiful, beautiful watch, this Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano. And will win many fans. Especially those who are already in love with the Reverso, this is a easy add to the collection. The execution is very nicely done, with the play of colours, textures, and the functionality of duo timezones on the pink gold Reverso case making the final arguments.
Photographed in the JLC Boutique in Ion Orchard with the Hasselblad H3D-39 with HC 4./120 Macro and HC 2.8/80 with and without the H28 and H52 extension tubes. Profoto studio strobes.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano Technical Specifications
Dimensions: 47 x 28.3mm x 10.3mm
Calibre: Manually wound mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 854A/2; 21,600 vibrations per hour
Functions: Front: Hours, minutes, small seconds. Reverse: Second time zone, 24-hour day/night indicator
Power reserve: 42-hour
Case: 18-carat pink gold
Dial: Front: Burgundy-red lacquer, applied golden hour markers, Dauphine hands. Reverse: Silvered grey and velvety Clous de Paris guillochage, applied golden hour markers, Dauphine hands
Strap: Bi-material cordovan leather and canvas, designed and hand-crafted by Casa Fagliano, pin buckle in 18-carat pink gold
Water resistance: 3 bar