Discover the new Seiko Presage Classic Craftsmanship Series (HCC005 & HCC006). These stunning enamel and urushi lacquer watches beautifully revive the historic 1913 Laurel.
Press Release with commentary in italics.
New: Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Enamel and Urushi dial
The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Enamel HCC005 retails at EUR 1,430 and the Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Urushi Lacquer HCC006 retails at EUR 1,640. Prices include EU VAT.
Commentary and insights
An interesting recreation of the first ever Japanese wristwatch, which happens to be by Seiko in 1913, and named Laurel. This watch is a significant step and signalled the entry of the Japanese to horology, a field, hereto based on the engineering and watchmaking from Europe and Switzerland.
As a celebration of this landmark, Seiko created two new watches within the Presage collection. The sub-collection is the Classic Series “Craftsmanship” line which focus on Japanese crafts. The two chosen for the novelties today is enamel and urushi lacquer. The original Laurel had an enamel dial, which at that time was very popular in the Swiss watches.
The HCC005, is inspired by the Laurel, but not copying the design completely. This is Seiko’s release inspired by the Laurel, the first being Presage 110th Anniversary of Laurel SPB359 in 2022. Where the 2022 release had a different dial layout, the dial layout for these the HCC005 is almost identical to the 1913. The dial is executed in white/porcelain enamel and the indices are italic Breguet numerals with a red 12. Seconds are shown as a centrally mounted sweep hand instead of the original’s subsidiary seconds on a sunken sub-dial. The look of the sub-dial is inferred through the use of a 24 hour dial in the same position. The new HCC005, however modernises this design with a different set of hands and in the standard Presage case in stainless steel, instead of silver in the 1913 original.
The HCC006 takes the design one step further. The typography of the original is retained, but the watch is the same as the HCC006 except for a different colourway, and the dial executed in black urushi instead of enamel. The hands and indices have a yellow gold plating over stainless steel.
Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Release details
Seiko’s history in wristwatches began in 1913 with the creation of the Laurel, Japan’s first wristwatch. The legacy of this landmark timepiece continues to shape Seiko’s approach to mechanical watchmaking. It is closely reflected in the Presage collection, which combines mechanical watchmaking expertise with distinctive expressions of Japanese culture and artistry. Within the collection, the Classic Series “Craftsmanship” line highlights traditional Japanese crafts, expressing the beauty of Japanese aesthetics through its dials.
Today, two new creations are introduced featuring enamel and urushi lacquer dials inspired by the Laurel. Shaped by human hands, each dial reflects the beauty of its respective craft while expressing a distinct character through texture and depth.
By incorporating dials made through traditional Japanese craftsmanship into mechanical watches designed for daily life, the creations contribute to the appreciation and continuity of these specialized techniques. This reflects Seiko’s commitment to preserving horological culture and technical skills for future generations as part of its broader sustainability efforts.
The Laurel has been designated an example of “Mechanical Engineering Heritage” by the Japan Society of Mechanical Engineers.
An enamel dial echoing the Laurel’s design The enamel model draws on the design of the Laurel, featuring Arabic numerals in an original typeface that balances elegance and legibility. The distinctive red “12,” a defining detail of the original, adds a subtle yet striking accent to the pristine white dial.
The model is faithful to the spirit of the Laurel in its use of enamel, a material prized for its enduring beauty and resistance to fading over time. The dial is crafted by master artisan Mitsuru Yokosawa and Kazunori Uchiyama, the latter of whom refined his skills under Yokosawa’s guidance. Their mastery of enamel work ensures a pristine white finish made to endure for generations to come. Creating an enamel dial requires extraordinary precision and adaptability in the face of changing conditions, including adjusting the glaze composition to suit variations in temperature and humidity.
Expressing the Laurel design for the first time in urushi lacquer The model with the urushi lacquer dial combines design elements inspired by the Laurel with the rich aesthetic of traditional urushi lacquer craftsmanship. Gold-colored accents are used throughout the dial, lending it a sense of depth and refinement while enhancing the contrast with the deep black lacquer. The hands and indexes are rendered with rich texture and dimensionality that harmonize with the Laurel’s original design and the expressive character of urushi lacquer.
As a centuries-old technique, urushi lacquer is deeply rooted in Japanese culture and prized for its rich luster and long-lasting durability. Through repeated hand-painting and hand-polishing in a process that demands extensive time and skill, the lacquer develops a deep, rich color and a surface that gains strength as the years pass.
Under the supervision of urushi lacquer master Isshu Tamura, each dial is meticulously crafted by Toshikazu Tsuji, his daughter Mitsuki Tsuji, and their team. Rooted in Echizen urushi lacquer, one of Japan’s oldest lacquerware traditions, Mitsuki Tsuji has begun to expand the scope of her craft by studying with the Kanazawa-based Tamura.
The timepieces feature the latest case design from the Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” line, enhancing the depth and dimensionality of the enamel and urushi lacquer dials and capturing the understated elegance of the Classic Series. Paired with a dual-curved sapphire crystal, the design achieves a clean and refined profile.
Powered by the mechanical Caliber 6R5H, each watch offers a power reserve of approximately 72 hours for everyday convenience. The strap is crafted from oil-tanned leather sourced from Leather Working Group-certified tanneries* whose specialized tanning process infuses oils into the material to achieve both suppleness and durability. Through these creations, traditional craftsmanship continues to find new expression in contemporary watchmaking.
Both watches will be available as continuous production models at the Seiko Boutiques and select retail stores worldwide beginning in September 2026.
*Leather Working Group
The Leather Working Group (LWG) is a non-profit organization dedicated to responsibly made, sustainable leather production. Seiko, a member of LWG, aims to increase its percentage of leather straps made with leather produced by LWG-certified tanneries to over 90% in the future.
Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Specifications
Caliber 6R5H Driving system: Automatic * Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) * Power reserve: 72 hours (3 days) * Number of jewels: 24
Specifications Stainless steel case with super-hard coating (HCC005) / Stainless steel case with yellow gold-colored plating (HCC006) * Enamel dial (HCC005) / Urushi lacquer dial (HCC006) * Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface * See-through screw case back * Diameter: 39.6mm, Thickness: 12.4mm * Water resistance: 3 bar * Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m * Leather strap, three-fold clasp with push-button release *(Leather material sourced from LWG-certified tanneries)
