At a recent wedding celebration, after a heavy dinner of exceptional cuisine, I continued the celebration with the couple and friends at the After Party. And we experienced these two exceptional champagnes. One a highly elusive magnum from Frederic Savart, and the other a premier cuvée from Larmandier-Bernier. Both highly acclaimed Récoltant-Manipulants.

More Exceptional Champagnes from August – a Special Journal Entry

Frederic Savart Cramant ” Les Gouttes D’or” Cramant Grand Cru

The second bottle was an absolute gem. The Frederic Savart Cramant ” Les Gouttes D’or” Cramant Grand Cru is unusual from Frederic as he is famous for Pinot Noir (Écueil), this cuvée is a rare departure and made from 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay. The name translates to “Drops of Gold” and was only made in 1.5l Magnums.

The 2018 vintage is the second-ever commercial release of this elusive cuvée. The first being in 2017, with 400 magnums released. And the 2018 vintage saw 293 bottles of magnums released. The rarity is because the grapes are from a single, very low yield parcel of old-vine Chardonnay above the Chemin de Chalon in Cramant. The year was a warm, sunny harvest across Champagne, and the vintage has intense aromatic density and physical power. Savart kept the must for 10 months resting in lees, with no malolactic fermentation with 0g/L dosage.

The aesthetic of the wine is unusual as its providence. True to the drops of gold name, the pour is a rich, deep golden colour. No pics of the glass as the room was very dark with funky coloured lights. On the nose, explosive and rich. Opulent with layers of lemon, tangerine and fruits blanketed by notes of chalk and pastry. On the palate, it is powerful. Expansive vinous breadth driven by the warm 2018 fruit, and gripping one with a searing saline and chalk. Massive structure. It is perhaps a bit early to drink this 2018 Magnum as it will probably age in a dark cellar for another 20 years. But with an hour to breathe in a wide brim glass, it is approachable. And as we had this in 67 Pall Mall who pours their Champagnes in Burgundy Zalto glass, leaving it for a while makes this champagne very enjoyable.

Larmandier-Bernier Longitude Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs

This is a benchmark champagne from Larmandier-Bernier, a highly sought after grower. This is the pinnacle for pure, mineral driven Blanc de Blancs. The name Longitude refers to the line of northern villages in Champagne. Namely Vertus, Oger, Avize and Cramant which sit roughly along the same longitude. This is their premier cuvée, as they also offer an entry-level cuvée called Latitude.

The assemblage draws from 40% of reserve wines from a solera system started in 2004. I do not remember which is the base vintage. The bottles lies in the lees for two years. Disgorgement is done by hand, and the final bottles are rested for a further 9 months. Dosage is 2g/L.

The wine presents as the usual golden lemon, showing up as very bright and almost luminous. The nose is vibrant and complex. Crisp green apple, pepper balanced by almond and brioche. The palate is focussed with intense chalk and saline but ultimately softened as the use of wood shows up as silkiness and volume. But I did not detect any oak flavour. Finish is long, clean and energetic.

Concluding thoughts

What an August it has been. Magnificent champagnes. But stay tuned, more in September where I visited the caves of Billecart-Salmon and explore their heritage.