Hermè’s new Perpetual Calendar timepiece, the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel is quite a fascinating take on the complication. As the brand ventures into deeper watch complication territory, the design house shows its flair with the stunning Arceau L’Heure De La Lune and this year, the Perpetual.
Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel
The Case and Dial
The watch measures 39.5 mm diameter and is relatively thin. There is no official measure, but considering a 4mm thick movement, and a flat case, it is safe to say around 10 mm thick. The case color and material combination is possibly the piece de resistance of the watch.
A beadblasted grade 5 titanium caseband and case-back is fit againsta 18k yellow gold bezel, gold crown and pusher.
The anthracite dial is marked by silver-toned transferred arabic numerals specially designed by Philippe Apeloig. For the moonphase display, a Mother-of-pearl moon is inlayed against an aventurine glass sky. The hands are sandblasted gold-plated with the exception of a blue-lacquered second timezone hand.
The subdials intuitively features the classic calendar layout, but with a twist. The contrasting white subdial is used to show a second timezone hour, while the month is displayed together with the leapyear indicator at the 9 o’clock subdial. A small aperture with colored discs, red and white are used to mark day or night.
Sapphire crystal is used on the front and case-back with anti-glare treatment. The watch is equipped with 3 bar water-resistance.
The Movement
The Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel runs on the ultra-thin Manufacture H1950 movement. Developed by Vaucher, the movement measures just 4mm thick – a 2.6mm base with 1.4mm module. For the less initiated, the Perpetual Calendar complication mechanically calculates the dates and months and automatically adjusts for shorter months, and leap years without the need of corrections.
The movement also powers day/ night, dual-time and moon-phase indications within a composition measuring just 4 mm thick. This thinness is in part due to the micro rotor layout which gives the watch a self-winding function without the additional layer of a full rotor. The best part about the watch is the case, with the attractive slim lugs, and contrasting metals. The dial is also a looker with its unique layout and a surprising dual time complication display. The movement aesthetic on the other hand is a downside of the piece. While the layout looks good, it shows lost potential on its finishing. Some hand polished bevels or a more subtle bridge decoration instead of a monogram H may help elevate the finishing standards of the movement.
Concluding thoughts
The case and dial work very nicely together. We especially like the lugs on the slim watch. The complications display is mostly legible, considering the wealth of information from a Perpetual Calendar. In terms of design, the watch is good to look at, and comfortable to wear. An automatic movement also makes the watch convenient to run and keep time on a winder when not on the wrist. Often taken for granted, the day night indicator is also very helpful in the even that the watch needs to be adjusted, or for reading the second timezone. All said and done, the watch lacks the x factor of the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune, which is potentially the current/future icon of Hermès timepieces. It is good to look at from the front, but the movement finishing leaves more wanting. The watch is priced at S$46,320.
