We are not particularly big fans of openworked dials. But every once in a a while, one does come along which tugs at our heartstrings. This listicle outlines our pick of the top six.
Skeletons in the closet: our pick of the top six watches with openworked dials
There is a distinction to the terminology used – skeletonising vs openworked. Though not mutually exclusive, they are used to describe the choices made in the production of a watch. Skeletonising means that the dial, as well as the movement plates are pierced, or have parts removed. This is either for aesthetic reasons, or to reduce weight. Openworked dials means what it says on the tin. The dial is pierced or open in certain places to reveal the movement within, which may or may not be skeletonised.
With that said, our focus on this listicle is the openworked dial, though some of the examples may also be skeletonised. Without further ado, let’s go!
Orient Star M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Wound
We just reviewed this watch, and became endeared to it during our loaner period. This is perhaps a classical openwork watch. Set on a dark case and bracelet in stainless steel with black plating, the dial is perfectly shown-off with the matte finished steel bezel in its silvery natural hue. There are enough dark elements on the movement which is revealed by the openwork dial design to provide contrast to the hands and indices which are faceted and finished in high polish. This enables good legibility. And we think, rather excellent for a openworked dial with skeletonised movement.
As shown in the photograph I draw from the review article above, this is a full skeleton watch. The movement parts are fully skeletonised and one can see through the watch in certain parts on to the other side.
We like the Orient Star as it is very well designed and constructed. Legibility is excellent, and the choice of finishing and juxtaposition of dark and light elements makes a very pleasing aesthetic. It also comes in at a very modest pricing which can appeal to newcomers to high watchmaking.
H. Moser Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton
Here, our example from Moser is also both skeletonised with an openworked dial. The Endeavour Tourbillon has its movement skeletonised and is fitted with an openworked dial.
Here, the classical Endeavour case hosts the Moser HMC 814, which is a fully sleketonised version of the HMC 805 automatic tourbillon. This base movement is found in the recent Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly as well as in the Pioneer Tourbillon. The 805 is also used in the Tourbillon Pop released at WWG25.
This watch gets our vote because essentially, the entire dial is carved out, with only a chapter ring and appliqué bar indices sticking out from it, revealing the entire movement. The movement has also undergone very artistic skeletonisation. The parts which remain after the large parts of the bridges are removed is very artistically rendered with beautiful curves. The movement is plated black, which allows the gold indices and gold hands to stand out for good visibility. Also, of course, for the tourbillon to take center stage.
Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton
Released this year as part of the LVMH Watch week, we select Zenith’s Defy Skyline Skeleton as an excellent example of this genre. Here, like in the Moser, the concept is taken to its limit. The dial is vestigial, comprising of a chapter ring with the appliqué indices sticking out, with the rest of the dial taken out. What remains is the actual movement itself, which is skeletonised in the Skyline theme of angular lines.
Legibility suffers a bit in this watch, as the gold tone of the exposed and skeletonised movement provides lower contrast to the similarly hued indices and hands. But the entire gold face is shrouded in the black ceramic bezel fitted on the black ceramic case and black ceramic bracelet.
The movement used is the El Primero 620 SK. This is a statement movement, which features a constant 1/10th of a second running indicator driven directly by the 5Hz movement, completing one full rotation every 10 seconds. A remarkable movement and now is used as a stage to showcase the skeletoning art, and encapsulates the philosophy very well.
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante Openworked Ice Blue
This one is perhaps older than the others. It was released in 2022, but it has remained a hot favourite of the Deployant office. The concept of a rattrapante with an openworked dial is a brilliant one, and the execution by Czapek is absolutely top notch. Our pick is the Ice Blue version, which is the followup release to the First Edition of the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante out since 2021 at a very low price of just CHF 46k, and quickly sold out. The Ice Blue edition aslo sold out in double quick time when it was released at CHF 50k.
The watch is magnificently beautiful. The case and bracelet is in stainless steel, with polished and brushed matte surfaces providing dimensionality to the watch. And within, lies the Calibre SXH6 made for Czapek by Chronode. The openworked dial allows the showing the double column wheel of the rattrapante making its dance at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock, re-emphasising the symmetry of the movement construction. The movement and bridges also feature skeletonising with piercings, evoking a very pleasat open and airy feel.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface
Another wow watch. This from Vacheron Constantin’s 2023 crop of novelties. The watch features a retrograde date complication with its tourbillon regulator. A VC tourbillon is always a sight to behold, and this one is no different. It takes center stage covering most of the lower half of the dial. Speaking of the dial, it is designed to be open, with only the top half (and a bit) shown as an arc to display the markers for the minutes chapter ring and the markings for the date. The rest of the dial is taken out to reveal the movement below.
In this case, the movement is not skeletonised to have portions of the bridges removed, but the openworked dial allows us to see the mechanism for the retrograde date, and of course the bridge carrying the magnificent tourbillon. The movement is the Calibre 2162 R31, based on the seminal Calibre 2160 from 2018, which was then Vacheron Constantin’s first and only self-winding tourbillon movement. The new Calibre 2162 R31 is essentially a more stylised version of its predecessor, with the addition of a retrograde date mechanism on the dial-side.
Greubel Forsey Convexe S2 Final Edition
With this release, we see the final edition of the Greubel Forsey Convexe S2. Offered in two variants, each limited to 11 pieces, this is a superb culmination of the Balancier movement in the unusually shaped Convexe case, made sporty in the S2 guise with rubber strap.
The movement remains the same as the one which we reviewed in 2021, but now with a “right sized” case measuring 41.5mm. We particularly like the all white version in the ceramic case and white rubber strap. The dial is fully openworked, just like the earlier examples in this list, comprising of only a chapter ring with appliqué indices sticking out, and the rest removed. The movement plate which remains is fully exposed, and is carries a big plate with a chamfer taken out to display the angled balanced wheel. Only the cocks carrying the hour and minute hands and the inclined balance are skeletonised to reveal the movement mechanics below. The rest of the movement is covered by the said plate.
Concluding thoughts
When we first undertook this article, we were a bit skeptical, as we were not big fans of openworked dials. We had always felt it interfered with the legibility of the watch. And that skeletonising would compromise the rigidity and stability of the movement bridges. But these six seem to convince us otherwise. All six feature excellent legibility. All six have excellent, stable, reliable movements. And we are particularly happy that we are able to span the entire budget scale from EUR 3k to EUR 300k. What are your favourites from this list? And what others would you have chosen?
