Vacheron Constantin marks its 270th year of continuous operation this year, and to celebrate, the brand has released a host of commemorative models. It’s mostly a classical affair, but there’s also the fairly contemporary Traditionnelle Openface series that’s received the anniversary makeover. Of the three, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is the most striking.
Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface in Platinum
If the watch looks familiar, that’s because it is. The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is not entirely brand new, having first debuted in 2023 in pink gold. For the 270th birthday of the Maison, Vacheron Constantin have presented a special variation of the watch that is aesthetically distinct from its predecessor. Here, we bring you the details and our honest thoughts on the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface in platinum.
The Case, Dial, and Hands
Apart from the change of material from pink gold to platinum, everything else about the case of the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface remains the same. It is still 41.00mm x 11.07mm in size, entirely polished, with stepped lugs, a fluted case back, and a slender bezel. There is engraving on the case back denoting that the watch is limited edition, followed by the series number.
It is at the dial where the anniversary version of the timepiece distinguishes itself from the standard issue pink gold variant. But first, something in common: the signature Maltese cross-inspired tourbillon at 6 o’clock that never fails to captivate. It’s no exaggeration when they say that Vacheron Constantin’s got the best looking tourbillon in the industry. Between the bridge and the cage, there’s a ton of craftsmanship and hand-finishing involved that you wouldn’t dream of seeing from another brand of lesser or even equal standing. Once you’re done ogling the tourbillon, you look up to find a tastefully openworked dial that reveals the intricate workings of the retrograde date. Meanwhile, the unpared, lower third part of the dial is adorned with the anniversary motif that is inspired also by the Maltese cross. The hand-guilloched decoration creates a subtle play of light and shadow with every movement of the wrist. Legibility of the hours and minutes is a minor issue due to the openworking of the dial and the similar hues of the dauphine hands and its backdrop, but that is a small sacrifice to make for what is a stunning dial. The seconds and retrograde date are easily readable, however, thanks to the heat-blued screw and hand (respectively) that indicate them.
The Movement
Driving the new Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is the familiar 242-part, 30-jewel Calibre 2162 R31/270. This is virtually the same movement used in the original pink gold version of the watch that came in 2023. Based on the Calibre 2160, Vacheron Constantin’s first self-winding tourbillon movement, it features a one-minute tourbillon and retrograde date indicator, and indicates the hours and minutes centrally. The movement beats at a stately 2.5 Hz and has a power reserve of 3 days.
The only difference present between the standard Calibre 2162 R31 and the anniversary Calibre 2162 R31/270 is in the surface finishing of the bridges. In the former, typical Geneva waves are utilised. But in the latter, an old-school decoration used by the brand more than a century ago called ‘côte unique’ is applied instead. The finish looks deceptively simple but in actuality involves a combination of carefully controlled machining and manual gestures to create a harmonious and continuous line from one bridge to another across the entire movement.
The ‘côte unique’ is but one of many finishing techniques used on the Geneva Seal-certified Calibre 2162 R31/270. The tourbillon itself is host to a myriad of decorative techniques, including the bridge that secures it, which is rounded and mirror polished. The cage, shaped like the Maltese Cross, is beautifully chamfered and polished, with numerous sharp inward and outward angles. The rest of the movement is also finished to a high standard as evidenced by what one can see through the sapphire crystal case back: polished screws, polished chamfers, circular grained wheels, perlage, and a 22K gold engraved peripheral rotor.
The Competitive Landscape
Vacheron Constantin celebrates 270 years of traditional watchmaking excellence and what better timepiece than the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface to show for it? The watch is clearly rooted in classical watchmaking but elevated with modern manufacturing and decorative techniques. It is the perfect example of how traditional watchmakers can appeal to contemporary tastes without losing its identity. The juxtaposition of old and new is nothing novel in watchmaking but here, it is executed to perfection. The anniversary model in platinum with special commemorative decorations is limited to 370 pieces only. Pricing is only available upon request but expect it to be around the EUR200,000 mark.
You won’t find another watch like the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Openface, but you can get pretty close with the Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597. It hasn’t got a tourbillon, but other aspects of the Breguet are reminiscent of the Traditionnelle. From the openworking and guilloche to the retrograde date complication, the Breguet 7597 also marries the old and the new masterfully. And at about EUR40,000, it is more accessible – you’ll just have to accept that it’s missing a tourbillon and, while excellent, is perhaps not nearly as impeccable in finissage.
This next one is an oldie but a goldie: the Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Volant Heuere Sautante Minute Rétrograde. The watch speaks a different design language to the Traditionnelle but shares some similarities, namely the tourbillon and a retrograde display. That’s about where the similarities end however. The Villeret has a flying tourbillon, unlike the one in the Traditionnelle which is secured by a bridge. The retrograde display isn’t for the date, but for the minutes. In addition, there is no openworking on the dial, just pristine, kiln-fired white enamel. Where the ‘côte unique’ dominates on the case back for the Traditionnelle, it is hand-guilloched motifs that run the show for the Villeret. A spectacular timepiece, the Villeret Tourbillon Volant Heuere Sautante Minute Rétrograde is priced at USD183,500.
Final Thoughts
Vacheron Constantin being in operation for 270 years continuously is nothing short of a feat. It implies that the manufacture knows how to adapt to the times. Despite being a custodian of traditional fine watchmaking, the brand isn’t afraid of change and modernisation, and it shows in the classical yet contemporary Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. Here’s to more of the same from the grand dame of watchmaking for the next 270 years.
