Vacheron Constantin has a proud 270-year history of classic designs, reflected most prominently in the brand’s Traditionnelle and Patrimony lines. Of the two household collections, it is the Patrimony that is the most understated. The Patrimony collection, inspired by the ultra-thin, round timepieces crafted by Vacheron Constantin in the 1950s, has embraced minimalism and subtlety for more than two decades. Its design codes are expressed through a round case with a slim bezel, a subtly domed dial with slender, curved applied hour-markers, curved baton-type hands and a ‘pearl’ minutes track.
Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date 270th Anniversary Edition
The Patrimony’s timelessness makes it the perfect canvas upon which flourish is added to commemorate Vacheron Constantin’s 270th birthday. Of the two pre-existing models set aside to receive the anniversary treatment, it is the Moon Phase Retrograde Date (the other being the Self-Winding) that is the more interesting piece with its poetic date and moon displays. Here, we bring you the details and our honest thoughts on this celebratory and limited edition of the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date.
The Case, Dial, and Hands
The case of the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date is virtually the only part unaltered in the making of the 270th Anniversary edition. It’s still got the same contemporary 42.5mm x 9.7mm dimensions, and is crafted in either pink or white gold depending on the reference. Simple and polished, the austere design and crisp finissage of the case remains unchanged relative to past incarnations.
Where the anniversary edition really stands out is in its dial. It features a subtle geometric motif inspired by the Maltese Cross, Vacheron Constantin’s emblem since 1880. The 270th anniversary motif adds a note of contemporary flair and creates striking light effects with every movement of the wearer’s wrist. The other key difference in dial design between the anniversary model and regular production models is the lack of the signature ‘pearl’ minutes track. Between the unique motif and the missing minutes track, Vacheron Constantin’s aim may have been to achieve a more contemporary look. Personally, I don’t feel that the ‘pearl’ minutes track would’ve interfered in any way with the anniversary dial. If anything, it would’ve added more character to the dial – but that’s just me. What I do like is the decision to use a textured ‘moon’ in the moon phase display for the anniversary model. While the more typical polished gold ‘moon’ is similarly gorgeous, I prefer the more realistic, textured version even more. The other key elements of the model – including the curved baton hands and hour markers, as well as the retrograde date display and its arrow hand – remain unchanged.
The Movement
Driving the new Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date is a variant of the familiar Calibre 2460 R31L, the Calibre 2460 R31L/270. The 275-part, 27 jewel self-winding movement has a power reserve of 40 hours and operates at 4Hz. It indicates the time in hours and minutes, the date via a retrograde mechanism, as well as the phases and age of the moon. The moon phase indicator is so precise that it requires adjustment only once every 122 years.
How the Calibre 2460 R31L/270 – which bears the Hallmark of Geneva – stands out from the non-anniversary version of the calibre is in its decoration. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the bridges of the movement feature the ‘côte unique’ finish which is applied on each of the anniversary models. This refined finishing looks deceptively simple but actually requires carefully controlled machining and manual gestures. The technique was used by Vacheron Constantin more than a century ago and rediscovered only in 2021 while reproducing the Historiques American 1921 watch. It took more than 500 hours for today’s artisans to perfect the craft, with each of the anniversary calibres requiring precise adjustments to the artisan’s gestures to create the impression of unbroken lines flowing from one bridge to another. The Calibre 2460 R31L/270 is also fitted with an openworked 22k gold oscillating weight incorporating a Maltese Cross. As a final touch, each anniversary movement, including this one, is engraved with an emblem representing the brand’s 270th anniversary.
The Competitive Landscape
The retrograde date and phases of the moon are some of the most whimsical complications, especially so when combined. They aren’t exactly rare complications (phases of the moon in particular) so there are other watches out there that feature one or both complications. There aren’t, however, many examples outside of Vacheron Constantin (if any at all actually) that do just the two complications on the one watch – certainly not to the style and level and craftsmanship exacted by the brand. The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date made for the 270th anniversary of the brand is by far the most unique variation ever release since the model’s debut in 2017. It is limited to – unsurprisingly – 270 pieces only for each of the pink gold and white gold references; both references are priced at CHF53,000.
The biggest competition the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date faces is perhaps from within its ranks. The Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date is essentially the same watch mechanically but with sporty aesthetics. And we all know how much of a commercial hack sports watches are in the 2020s. With its mesmerising blue lacquered dial and stainless steel construction, the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date is irresistible in terms of looks and value proposition. Priced at CHF43,800, it is a less expensive but equally bedazzling alternative to the anniversary Patrimony model.
If the retrograde complication is your thing, why not go for the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date instead. The model looks just like the Moon Phase Retrograde Date, but instead of a moon phase display, you have a retrograde day display in its place. That’s right, double the retrograde action. The particular reference in the photograph below is crafted in platinum and showcases a stunning salmon-toned dial. At CHF62,000, it is the most expensive watch of the bunch. There are other variations of the Retrograde Day-Date that don’t come with the prohibitive platinum premium, but none are quite as spectacular as it.
Final Thoughts
The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date is today a household name in the Vacheron Constantin stable, eight years after it was first released. The 270th anniversary model respects the fundamental design of the model but has just enough decoration to distinguish itself from the regular production models. The white gold and pink gold models are both exceedingly charming, but my vote goes to pink gold.
