The Overseas Tourbillon needs no introduction. First released in 2019, the model has since gained many fans and been a commercial success. This is hardly surprising given that the watch is one of, if not the most aesthetically pleasing in its category. The Overseas Tourbillon had a strong start with its very first model rightfully being made in stainless steel; in 2019, that was a cheat code as sports watch mania was rising to a crescendo. Since then, precious metal and even skeletonised variants have been added to the collection.
Overseas Tourbillon in Titanium
Even after consecutive years of novelty releases for the model, yet another new variant of the Overseas Tourbillon joins the ranks in 2024 for completeness sake. At first glance, the watch seems familiar, and that’s because it looks just like the stainless steel variation from 2019 and bejeweled white gold variation announced at the end of 2023. You could probably guess that this newest model has a white metal/blue dial combo – and you’d be right. This is, after all, the Overseas collection’s most potent case and dial pairing. Here, we bring you the details and our honest thoughts on the Vacheron Constantin’s latest iteration of the Overseas Tourbillon, this time in grade 5 titanium.
The Case, Dial, and Hands
There are no design changes in the case of the new Overseas Tourbillon. It is still barrel shaped, measures 42.5 mm x 10.39 mm and features its iconic Maltese cross-inspired bezel, much like every Overseas Tourbillon reference since inception. One point worth mentioning, however, is that this new Overseas Tourbillon is crafted in grade 5 titanium. While this isn’t the only titanium variant of the model, it is the first one that isn’t skeletonised. In terms of looks, titanium appears darker than white gold and even stainless steel. The difference is subtle, but if you were to line up the titanium, stainless and white gold variants of the Overseas Tourbillon, it becomes fairly obvious. What’s much more obvious is the weight difference between the three materials, with titanium being the lightest, followed by steel, and then white gold. Like most titanium wristwatches, the latest Overseas Tourbillon feels ethereal on the wrist, almost unreal, until the stunning blue dial hits you in the face and snaps you back to reality.
This is the same blue dial used in multiple Overseas references over the years. You know it’s good when it’s become the unofficial flagship dial for the brand’s resident sports watch collection. Its lacquered, sunburst satin-finished surface imparts an otherworldly sheen that can only be appreciated up-close and in-person. Combined with the sight of the iconic Vacheron Constantin tourbillon in action and you have debatably the best-looking dial in the Overseas collection. The simplicity of the central hour and minute hands and the hour marker appliques only further accentuates the more vibrant rest of the dial.
The Movement
Driving the new Overseas Tourbillon in titanium is the 188-part, 30-jewel Calibre 2160, the same self-winding movement used in previous variants. The Calibre 2160 is the brand’s very first automatic tourbillon movement, having made its first appearance in the Traditionelle Tourbillon in 2018, and then in the FiftySix Tourbillon. It has an impressive power reserve of 80 hours and operates at a stately 2.5 Hz frequency. The movement indicates the time in hours, minutes and seconds (on the tourbillon carriage) and features a tourbillon regulator and peripheral rotor.
Solid watchmaking aside, the Calibre 2160 boasts incredible finissage and decoration worthy of the Hallmark of Geneva. The bridges feature gorgeous Geneva waves on the top surface, sharp angles, and polished bevels. The screws used to secure them are polished to a blinding sheen. The gold peripheral rotor – still an uncommon sight in watchmaking today – is decorated with a hobnail guilloche pattern, sandblasting, and relief engraving. Not forgetting as well, the tourbillon, with a cage that resembles the emblematic Maltese cross. The black-polished tourbillon cage alone contains more inward and outward angles than the rest of the movement. The bridge that secures the tourbillon is expertly rounded and painstakingly mirror-polished. Such intricate level of finishing on a tourbillon doesn’t come by too often, even by high watchmaking standards.
The Competitive Landscape
It goes without saying that the sports watch is an incredibly competitive category. The supply (and demand) of sports watches at every price point is huge thanks to their equally huge versatility. The narrative does change a little when you focus on complicated sports watches. And it gets even less crowded when it comes to sports watches with what are traditionally dress watch complications. The Overseas Tourbillon belongs in this sub-category. It is much harder to find a tourbillon sports watch than, say, one with a chronograph or GMT complication – and for good reason. The tourbillon is just not thought of as a sporty complication and is pricey to have in a watch. It is, however, flashy, which – for better or for worse – work in luxury sports watches. The Overseas Tourbillon has always been one of the best examples of its kind and its commercial success is evidence of this notion. With titanium being a highly desirable material in luxury sports watches, it is perhaps unsurprising that the Overseas Tourbillon in titanium has come, and not too long after the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton in titanium was presented. Pricing for the piece has not been publicised and only available upon request; the watch is also boutique-only. The steel variation of the watch, launched in 2019, was priced at SGD159,000 – so expect the titanium variant to be notably pricier, after taking into account five years worth of inflation and the titanium premium.
The closest alternative to the Overseas Tourbillon in titanium that is available in the market has to be the Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. Much like the Vacheron Constantin novelty, the Chopard is crafted in non-precious metal (a proprietary blend of stainless steel called Lucent Steel), has two central hands for the hours and minutes, indicates the seconds via the tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, and boasts a Geneva Seal certified movement. Naturally, there are also noteworthy differences between the two watches: the Alpine Eagle is wound by a classic micro-rotor, has a flying tourbillon and has a dial that is highly textured to resemble an eagle’s iris. The Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon retails at EUR136,000, which is in the same pricing ballpark as the Overseas Tourbillon in titanium.
For something that is that much more assertive, look no further than the Moser Streamliner Tourbillon in red gold with jade dial. Flying tourbillon aside, it is the jade dial that steals the limelight with its visual purity and deep olive tone. Crafted from a rare form of green jade stone known as Wyoming jade, the dial has unique shades and naturally occurring marks that is further highlighted in the absence of any logo and the lack of markers. Of course, the watch also features Moser’s patented double hairspring where two identical hairsprings mounted onto the balance wheel compensate for positional errors – so effectively, there are two mechanisms at play here to counteract the effects of gravity on the movement. Attractively finished and made of precious metal and semi-precious stone, the Moser Streamliner Tourbillon is competitively priced at CHF109,000.
Concluding Thoughts
It’s not exactly an earth-shattering novelty, but the Overseas Tourbillon in titanium is still an objectively gorgeous watch. The combination of a titanium exterior with the otherworldly lacquered blue dial and Maltese cross tourbillon cage is a crowd pleaser and Vacheron Constantin knows it. Will there be more variations of the model in the future? It’s probable, given its popularity and success, and they’ll hopefully be something special rather than just permutations of dial colour/case material.
