Ever realise how when you’re at a watch GTG (get-together), there’s always one watch there that blows everything out of the water? A watch that causes jaws to drop, and gathers fingerprints from a crowd quicker than a handlebar on a train at peak hour. Obviously, there’s levels to this. At the extreme end, if you’re lucky, you’ll have someone bring in something like a coveted, high-end Patek Philippe – something like the Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370P. It doesn’t matter who you are, as long as you know watches, you can’t help but appreciate and respect the work of art that is the Ref. 5370. Ten years ago, the first Ref. 5370 in platinum – with a black enamel dial – was introduced, and then five years later, a blue enamel dial version. They aren’t perfect watches, but they are damn near perfect. From the front of the shop to the back end, the Ref. 5370 in platinum was brilliantly designed and finely crafted.
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370R-001
There are few split-seconds chronographs out there that can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the mighty Ref. 5370P. Enter the new Ref. 5370R-001, presented at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, a new variation of the Ref. 5370 that might just manage to, dare we say, outshine the Ref. 5370P. Here, we bring you the details and our honest opinion on the first and only Ref. 5370 that isn’t rendered in platinum, but in rose gold.
The Case, Dial, and Hands
The case is somehow simultaneously the least and most interesting bit of the new Ref. 5370R. Compared to previous iterations of the model, nothing has changed in terms of design. Frankly, no change is needed when it’s already perfect. Patek Philippe makes incredibly nuanced cases and the Ref. 5370R’s is no different. The case provides ample tactile pleasure with its screw-in lug pins, recessed flanks, rounded rectangular pushers, fluted crown, concave bezel and good mix of polished and satin finishing. The only new talking point pertaining to the case would be the fact that, for the first time, the Ref. 5370 is available in a metal other than platinum. Ten years after its debut, the Ref. 5370 is available in a rose gold case. At 41mm x 13.56mm, it’s well proportioned but perhaps a tad bigger and thicker than what it ideally should be.
As nice as it is to finally have options in case material, it doesn’t quite compare to what Patek Philippe has done for the dial of the new Ref. 5370R. While the dial for the Ref. 5370 has always been enamel, this is the first time that it’s two-tone, with two types of enameling techniques applied. The central, largest portion of the dial is crafted in brown Grand Feu enamel. This is the part of the watch that really sets the mood. Unlike its predecessors, the Ref. 5370R with its glossy, brown dial and rose gold case exudes warmth. This is further complemented with, not white, but beige enamel for the tachymetre scale and sub-dials. The enamel for those parts has a matte finish and is done with the champlevé technique, hence the clear demarcations between them and the main dial. The beauty of the dial is not just in its material, colour or finish, but also its depth. It’s subtle but the tachymeter scale is raised while the sub-dials are recessed relative to the main dial. Rose gold hands and Breguet numeral hour markers are the icing on this very charming, charismatic cake. All this is laid on a dial base that’s – as expected of a high end Patek watch – solid gold.
The Movement
Driving the Ref. 5370R is the familiar, all-conquering Calibre 29-535 PS. This is the same 34-jewel split-second chronograph movement used in previous iterations of the model. It has a power reserve of 65 hours and operates at a modern 4Hz. While the Calibre 29-535 PS appears traditional in construction (think column wheel, horizontal clutch, and stacked chronograph parts), it remains one of the most innovative chronograph movements in the market. The base Calibre 29-535 was revolutionary when it debuted in 2009. The movement comes with numerous patented innovations that improve performance and reliability such as optimised tooth profiles that reduce wear and tear, and the slotted minute counter cam for a precise jumping minute counter.
What makes the Calibre 29-535 PS truly epic is that it’s got the looks to match its impressive specs. Because of its old-school architecture, the Calibre 29-535 PS boasts some serious depth with layers upon layers of fine chronograph components stacked on the base movement. Being part of the Patek Philippe upper crust also means that the movement benefits from more tender loving care, and that in turn means a lot more hand-finishing. It is an absolute joy to see sprawling chronograph parts meticulously finished, from the black polished column wheel cap and screw heads, to polished bevels and acute angles.
The Competitive Landscape
Split-seconds chronographs at the level of the Ref. 5370 are rare, to say the least. After all, not every fine watch manufacturer possesses the know-how or resources or the right clientele to create them. While each of the Ref. 5370 variants are stunning in their own way, I do feel that the Ref. 5370R takes it to the next level with all the extra effort on the dial. The Ref. 5370R is priced at CHF245,000 and while it is not a limited edition piece, you can bet that annual production numbers will be limited anyway.
When it comes to great watches with split-seconds chronograph functionality, A. Lange & Söhne is a name that always comes up in conversations. The watch that most closely approximates Patek’s Ref. 5370 is without a doubt the fairly new 1815 Rattrapante. This is Lange’s first and only pure split-seconds chronograph; the brand has other watches with the complication – such as the Double Split, Triple Spilt, and Grande Complication – but they are fitted with other functions as well. At 41.2mm x 12.5mm, the 1815 Rattrapante is similar in size to the Ref. 5370, which is a pleasant surprise given that Lange watches have averagely been larger than Pateks. While the design of the case and dial is simpler than that of the Ref. 5370R, finissage is expectedly impeccable. Then there’s the Calibre L101.2, which is an absolute sight for sore eyes. The honey gold, 175th anniversary version of the watch features a movement with special treatment. But even discounting that, the Calibre L101.2 is still objectively better finished than the Calibre 29-535 PS, which says more about just how meticulously finished Lange movements are. The Calibre L101.2 is, however, technically inferior to its Patek counterpart – then again, so are all other traditional split-seconds chronograph movements. But here’s the real kicker: the 1815 Rattrapante in Honey Gold debuted at EUR130,000 (in 2021), which is significantly less expensive compared to the Ref. 5370R. Unsurprisingly, the watch, which is limited to 100 pieces only, is long sold out.
The last contender here is certainly not the least. The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine belongs in the pantheon alongside other great chronographs. That the timepiece has a platinum case and dial with platinum threads sewn into the strap is not even the most impressive part about it. The honour goes to the epic Calibre 3500 that drives the watch. The movement first debuted ten years ago as part of the Harmony Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph watch, which is one of the most incredible timepieces I’ve ever seen. The Calibre 3500 is one of the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movements ever made. It is also one of the most beautiful, with finissage that gives even Lange a run for their money. But once again, while it is objectively better in the finishing department compared to the Calibre CH 29-535 PS (just look at how many inward angles are in the movement!), it is also objectively inferior in tech. To maintain the thinness of the movement, a peripheral rotor is utilised at the expense of increased width; the Traditionelle is the largest watch here at 42.5mm. Priced at about USD288,000 in 2021, the watch is anything but “cheap and cheerful”, but if you factor in the platinum premium and the fact that only 15 pieces were ever made, then it would at least make some sense.
Final Thoughts
The Ref. 5370 started life as a cold, dark and handsome watch with its platinum case and black enamel dial. Combined with a Rolls Royce of a movement, the watch commands reverence. The blue enamel-dialed version that came half a decade later felt less brooding and more casual – personally, this is my least favourite variant of the lot. This year, for the model’s 10th anniversary, the brand presented an iteration of the Ref. 5370 that’s truly refreshing. Instead of going the ‘stealth wealth’ route once again, the manufacturer has instead taken a detour to dandy city. The Ref. 5370R is full of character and flair thanks in large part to a dial that possesses an exciting mix of materials, depth, colour and finish. As always, it’s not going to be for everyone. It’s the most casual the Ref. 5370 has ever been, and the purists would probably hate it for that reason. In spite of my preference for the Ref. 5370R, I would – at the same time -never say no to the black or blue enamel-dial versions that are cleaner and absolutely menacing in more formal settings. But let’s be honest: the Ref. 5370R is just more interesting, with more effort put into dial design and craftsmanship. In fine watchmaking, that (among other things) is what tips the scales for me.
1 Comment
Lovely write up. Thank you.
The Lange however wins my heart though. Only just 🙂