Review: the new Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase

Orient Star released their new hand wound mechanical watch with moon phase display – the M45 F8 in two dial variants, one in white, and the other in grey. We had both the versions on loan for a couple of weeks and bring you this comprehensive review of the watch.

Review: the new Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding

The Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding Ref RE-BW0004S (White dial) retails at USD 3,040 and the Ref. RE-BW0005N (Grey dial) retails at USD 3,280. The grey dial version is a limited edition of 140 pieces.

Orient Star: a brief introduction

Orient Star is a brand owned by Seiko Epson. They have been making mechanical watches for 70 years and movements for 50 years. The “46 (yonroku)” series movement was made in 1971. This movement features a 21,600 bph rate and is known for accuracy and durability. One of the manufacturing sites is located at the Shinshu Watch Studio, an artisan studio located in Nagano Prefecture (Shinshu). We covered the manufacture briefly during our Grand Seiko visit in 2019. This is a fully integrated “manufacture” with engineers, watchmakers and craftsmen of the highest level of skills. Within, are the Takumi studio which does assembly, the Case studio and Dial studio, as well as the vaunted and highly respected Micro Artist Studio. As described in the article, the Grand Seiko quartz and Spring Drive movements are manufactured here. This facility is also where the Orient Star watches are produced. We were given to understand that the operations are kept separate. Seiko/Grand Seiko and Orient/Orient Star are independent of each other, as they are brands owned by different companies.

The Orient Star collection spans three families. All known after nebulae, or cluster of stars. The M45 Pleiades is the classical lineup, the M34 Perseus is the contemporary lineup and the M42 Orion is the sports line. Within each line, the watches are organised by movement types. At the pinnacle is the F8 movement, then the F7 and at the base is the F6 series movements. All follow the Yonroku 21,600 bph rate. The highest end movement, the F8 has a power reserve of 70 or 60 hours for either the hand wound or automatic winding, and is equipped with a silicon escape wheel developed in-house in Japan. This top of the line movement has a specified accuracy of +15s to -5s a day. The F8 is the movement used in both our review samples.

The case, dial and hands

As mentioned, we received both versions of the M45 F8 Moon Phase watches. Both are in the same stainless steel case, which measures a very nice 39.5mm diameter. The 11.9mm thick case is well proportioned, with welded lugs which are sleek and curved. This design allows the watch to wear a little smaller than the 39.5mm diameter may suggest, but not so curved that it wears very small.

Finishing on the case is high polish on all sides. This is the typical zaratsu finish which we see in high end watches, and noted particularly on Japanese makes. And though both watches use the same case, and this feel the same on the wrist, they look completely different from each other due to the dial aesthetics.

The dials are of some interest. The roman indices are designed to be well balanced in the thickness and the size of the font. The appearance is quite elegant, especially on the white dial surface. The indices appear to be raised due to the thickness of the ink used, as the indices are pad printed multiple times. Instead of using the typical conical silicon pads to transfer ink, Orient Star chose to use the more delicate conical gelatine pads. Gelatine pads were used in very traditional processes, but are more difficult to work and require replacement more frequently than silicon ones. Generally, most modern commercial pad printing processes use silicon pads for economic reasons. However, gelatine pads make prints which are more crisp with more well defined edges. It also has ability to stack multiple prints on each other to create the depth. Though, layering is also more time consuming as drying is needed after each print pass. Recently, we have only seen these on the ultra high end dials made by Hajime Asaoka.

This same process is also used on the grey dial version. The main difference is the grey fumé style dial, the print is applied over a textured surface, whereas in the white dial version has a sunburst pattern which is machine applied. In this grey dial version, a pattern is stamped to create a textured surface. On both the dials, a thick clear coat is used to cover the metal dial surface for protection. When the transfer printed indices and the appliqué logo is applied to the dial, the effect is like these elements are floating over the surface.

The moon disc is the standard two moon rotating disc displayed under a cutout on the dial. The moon is made from mother of pearl, and has a beautiful iridescence that only the natural material can provide. It sits inside a silver frame to offer visual contrast with the dark printed sky. The aperture for the round sub-dial framing the display is also silver framed.

We think the dial is particularly clean and aesthetically well balanced. We also note that a seconds hand is absent.

The movement

The movement used in the M45 is the F8. This is the highest level movement produced by Orient Star. The movement is newly developed, and is hand wound. The Cal. F8A62 is fully visible from the sapphire case back. The movement features a moonphase display, but this is driven by the date wheel and is accurate to only 1 day in 2 years and 7 months. The movement runs at a steady 21,600 bph, and retains a power reserve of 70 hours displayed as a fan shaped gauge below the 12 o’clock on the dial.

Movement finishing is judged to be very good. The haute horlogerie elements which we see in Swiss or German watches are present. The côtes de Genève style rules on the movement plates are executed in different widths so as to create an impression of pin stripes. A visual which I find to be quite appealing.

What is also impressive is the silicon escape wheel, which is designed and manufactured in-house. The Japanese were not part of the Swiss silicium consortium, and thus have to make the research and development on their own. Epson’s semiconductor manufacturing expertise in Micro Electro Mechanical Systems (MEMS) is the key to this technology.

The movement performance specifications quoted are not impressive at all. But in our experience, we find that the Japanese tend to be very conservative in specifications. We see this in the modest performance numbers for Japanese cars, even for super cars. And we have also experienced it in other Japanese watches. The F8 is rated to +15s/-5s spec, but this will typically translate to daily wear rates which are much better than specified.

During our three weeks of testing as a daily driver, we find this to be sufficient accuracy for non-chronometer usage. The watches perform well, and was reliable, dependable and keeps good timing.

Concluding thoughts

Overall, the Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding offers two beautiful watches at a rather competitive price point. We are particularly drawn to the white dial version. Interesting as the grey dial version has a more elaborate execution of the face, is a limited edition and a bit more expensive. But all in the Deployant office agree the white dial version, which is in the permanent collection, is more handsome. One of us found the Cordovan strap to be less attractive than what he would have preferred, but that is an easy change to swap out for another strap which meets his aesthetics. I find the cordovan strap to be a nice change from the usual alligator or calf.

After three weeks with the watches with an almost daily basis, I find the Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding to be a rather good value proposition. The lack of a seconds hand initially bothered me a bit, but I soon luxuriated into the comfort that as I was not able to determine time to the second, and to leave the matter alone. Just enjoy the watch. The design is well balanced. The watch is very attractive. And the pricing is not exorbitant. What’s there not to like?

For more information, please visit the Orient Star website.

The M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding Specifications

Reference: RE-BW0004S / RE-BW0005N
Movement F8A62 * Accuracy +15 seconds to -5 seconds per day * Power reserve Over 70 hr
Dial color White / Gray fumé

Glass Front: Material Dual curved sapphire crystal with SAR coating * Glass Back: Material Sapphire crystal

Case Material SUS316L * Size(H×W×T) 46.7 × 39.5 × 11.9 mm * Case back (engraving) * See-through case back / See-through case back (Limited edition, serial #)

Strap Cordovan (black)/Trifold deployant buckle with push button * lug width (20.0 mm)

Water resistance 3 bar