From being the original sports watch, to the most iconic shaped dress watch – what a life the Reverso has lived. Versatility is its middle name as its been designed to be sporty with a rubber strap, to be a canvas hosting some of the most evocative enamel paintings seen in watchmaking, to be a showpiece highlighting high-end technical complications, or simply as a three-hander dress watch – and we’re just talking about the past decade.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds
Even Reversos on bracelets are a thing. They’re not often talked about, that is until this year. Some of the nicest non-sports watches on bracelets that I’ve seen include the iconic Lange 1, the divisive Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R, and finally in 2025, the Reverso. I’m of course talking about the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in full pink gold with Milanese bracelet.
The Case, Dial, and Hands
The rectangular case of the new Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds measures a reasonable 45.6mm x 27.4mm x 7.56mm; it’s not dainty, but it’s does not wear like a Pip-Boy either. Rendered in pink gold, it is reversible (no surprises there) and adorned with the signature horizontal gadroons. The reverse side of the case is solid and mirror polished, leaving space for further creativity or personalisation if the owner is so inclined.
The pink gold theme continues even as we move towards the dial. The gilded dial has a grainy texture, contrasting superbly against the polished case, hour markers, and dauphine hands. This not only looks great, but also improves legibility even if it’s just marginal. And if you thought that’s enough pink gold, think again. What makes this particular Reverso Tribute so special and praised is the stunning Milanese bracelet that it comes with. As gorgeous as Fagliano straps are, the pink gold Milanese bracelet turns the Reverso into a completely different beast. It is almost seamlessly integrated into the case and while, traditionally, these bracelets have to be sized to fit, the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds utilises an integrated sliding clasp where you just have to slide one end into the clasp and under the other half of the bracelet. The bracelet feels nice to wear, especially the way it drapes over your wrist. But importantly, it looks so right with the rest of the watch.
The Movement
Driving the new Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds is the familiar 108-part, 19-jewel Calibre 822. The Calibre 822 is inseparable from the Reverso family of watches, powering at least a dozen Reverso references, including the Grande Taille, which also comes with a bracelet. It has a power reserve of 42 hours and operates at 3Hz. These numbers suggest that it’s about time for an upgrade, but for now, the old but reliable Calibre 822 will have to do.
From a finishing perspective, the Calibre 822 isn’t anything shout-worthy given what we’ve seen from Jaeger-LeCoultre with their high-end movements. That said, it is attractive and is way beyond the minimum requirement for optimal function. If you open up the case back, you’ll find the usual Geneva stripes, beveled edges, and polished screw heads.
The Competitive Landscape
Dress watches with bracelets are a fairly rare breed in the luxury watch market. They are harder to pull off, are less versatile, and ironically, are less dressy. But, they are an absolute spectacle when done right. Watches like the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds with Milanese Bracelet ooze flair. Fortunately for fans, this one is part of the permanent collection, meaning it’s not a limited edition piece. The not-so-good news, though, is that production will likely be limited (it is a full gold watch with a Milanese bracelet after all) and that it costs a substantial EUR44,400.
That said, the Reverso would seem like a value proposition when compared to last year’s best dress watch with a bracelet, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R, also Patek’s best 2024 novelty in my opinion. At USD61,630, the Ref. 5738/1R is significantly more expensive but that’s partly because of a higher level of craftsmanship and finissage. Like the Reverso, the Golden Ellipse has an evocative shaped case. Its rose gold bracelet is chain-style consisting more than 300 links individually mounted by hand. Complete with a sunburst ebony dial and onyx cabochon set into the crown, the Ref. 5738/1R is the prime example of what happens when the design of a watch is placed on the forefront and not as an afterthought. Seriously, this watch is jaw-droppingly beautiful on the wrist.
The ultimate dress watch with bracelet is and has always been the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R. If you thought the Reverso and the Golden Ellipse were polarising, think again. The Ref. 5180/1R has received its fair share of both adoration and criticism from the day it was released. It is an extremely ornate timepiece that some see as a work of art while others see as excessive. At the end of the day, both camps are right depending on the context; this is, after all, a full rose gold watch (almost literally), openworked to the fullest extent and then emphatically engraved. Just the engraving alone takes 130 hours per watch. It takes a whole gamut of watchmaking skills to craft this timepiece to perfection, and yet, apparently more is not always more, at least according to critics of the Ref. 5180/1R. Priced at USD122,900, it is also, by far, the priciest piece of the lot here by virtue of its extensive (or is it excessive?) craftsmanship. Love it or hate it, the Ref. 5180/1R is the ultimate timepiece of its kind.
Final Thoughts
The Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds is like wagyu; it is rich, opulent, and best enjoyed in small doses. Leather straps should definitely remain the default method to secure a Reverso onto the wrist, as God intended. As much as I love seeing a Reverso on a stunning gold bracelet, it’s only as spectacular as it is now precisely because it is a rare treat. With the positive reception of the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds with Milanese bracelet, will Jaeger-LeCoultre be tempted to release more watches like it in the coming months or years to make some quick, easy money? Only time will tell. Here’s to them finding the right balance to maintain the exclusivity of this special breed of Reversos.
