Luxury watch trends come and go, some for better, some for worse. One of my favourite ones, surprisingly, was the sapphire crystal craze where everything must be transparent! I’m usually not one for ultra-contemporary watches but even I think sapphire crystal watches look breathtaking when done right. Some of my favourite applications of the sapphire crystal trend include the Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari Sapphire and the Jacob & Co. Astronomia – not exactly modest watches, but they are the ones that fully utilise the special qualities of sapphire crystal.
On the other hand, there were also trends that were just no bueno. My least favourite one was/is also the most insidious: the big case trend. Watchmaking lost its soul a little bit when this trend took flight. Watches used to be all about complementing the person wearing it – it then progressively became all about the watch. How could it not be when one has a 46mm x 15mm behemoth strapped to the wrist? As a side effect, movement-making became “easier” as there’s less need to miniaturise components and mechanisms. Complications are cool and all, but successfully miniaturising a movement? That’s underrated – underrated and sexy – and not to mention very challenging.
In recent years, there’s been palpable effort from luxury watch manufacturers in size reduction. Fatigued by oversized watches, the watch community can now begin to breathe a sigh of relief. We’ve seen atypically smaller watches from the likes of Hublot and Audemars Piguet in response to the shifting sentiment on case size. Though very much welcomed, most of these size reductions have been tame – that is until this year, with A. Lange & Söhne’s new 1815 watch.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815
The 1815 is not a new model, but the brand’s latest release features some pretty significant and – not to mention – bold updates. For one, it now comes in a demure 34 mm case. For another, it’s got a brand new movement that is going to keep the model relevant for the next decade or so. Here, we bring you the details and our honest thoughts on the new A. Lange & Söhne 1815 with blue dial.
The Case, Dial, and Hands
The biggest talking point of the new 1815 is on the case. Available in either pink or white gold, the case comes in at a tiny (by today’s standards) 34mm. And no, the brand has made no indication that this new release is targeted at women. The new 1815 is simply for anyone who appreciates a fine dress piece. Nevertheless, it bears mentioning that watch collecting remains a male-dominated endeavor and in 2025, it would take some effort for the average demographic to get used to a 34mm watch. In this regard, Lange is taking a significant risk. The 1815 model has changed in size multiple times over the decades. Starting at 36mm, come the second generation of the model in 2009, the watch grew to 40mm in 2009 – a sign of times. Five years later, the 1815 shrunk marginally to 38.5mm, heralding the advent of the third generation of the model. This was thought to be the sweet spot, or a compromise, if you will. Perhaps leveraging the trend change that’s in the air, Lange, this year, have decided to knock a whopping 4mm (or 12%) off of an already modest 38.5mm dress watch. Based on case size alone, the new 1815 wouldn’t look out of place in the 1970s when dress watches were actually discreet. This is a win for the purist connoisseurs and fans but will it come at a commercial cost? Only time will tell.
The 1815 dial retains its familiar design, featuring its signature Arabic numeral hour markers and railroad-style minutes track. Interestingly, the manufacturer has opted to launch the fourth generation of the 1815 with a rather modern blue dial that contrasts with the watch’s conservative 34mm case size. The white gold model is paired with a blue alligator leather strap while the pink gold version is matched with a red-brown strap. The juxtaposition of old and new feels a little jarring. It may be the brand’s intention to ‘soften the blow’ of such a dramatic size reduction to the case (by adding a contemporary touch), but perhaps it would’ve been better to just roll with the punches instead and double down with a classic white dial and black/dark brown strap. All that said, these are still meticulously crafted Lange watches – they look great even when you don’t completely agree with the design or aesthetics.
The Movement
Driving the latest generation of the 1815 is the all-new 171-part, 21-jewel Calibre L152.1. The development of a novel movement – the brand’s 75th – was necessary not just for fit, but also to extend the longevity of the 1815 line. Despite measuring only 28.1mm x 2.9mm, it boasts a respectable 72 hours of power reserve; this is a 17 hour increase from the old movement’s 55-hour power reserve, which is subpar in 2025 for a calibre with no complications. In addition, the Calibre L152.1 features a new oscillation system with a freely oscillating balance spring, a large screw balance, and a new going train.
While the technical aspects of the movement have been refreshed, finissage and decorations remain unchanged, because why fix something that isn’t broken? Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is a hand-engraved balance cock and a three-quarter plate that was introduced in 1864 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange. Over the plate are Glashütte ribbing, four screwed gold chatons, burgundy coloured jewels and heat-blued screws, providing an exemplary taste of Saxon fine watchmaking.
The Competitive Landscape
In the era of luxury sports watches, time-only dress watches seem to have been forgotten. Of course, it only seems that way because of their immense popularity right now. The majority of luxury watch brands do offer time-only dress watches as they are bread and butter when it comes to sales (and therefore pay the bills). But few do it at the highest level, and in a world where big watches still dominate, few are truly dress-sized. This is what makes Lange’s new 1815 so refreshing. It’s just a size change and a movement update, yet the watch feels completely novel. Neither the pink gold nor the white gold versions are limited edition. Price, as usual, is upon request only but based on past pricing, expect the watch to come at just under EUR30,000.
Yes, it is going to feel quite heavy for most to dish out close to EUR30,000 for a classic, 34mm, time-only wristwatch. For something a little more ‘wallet-friendly’ but still at the same level of quality, look no further than the Lange Saxonia Thin. While not as small as the new 1815, the Saxonia Thin isn’t exactly big either, measuring only 37mm in diameter. But with a height of only 5.9mm (making it Lange’s thinnest watch) and an ultra-simple dial design, the Saxonia Thin is the brand’s ultimate dress watch. At debut, the watch was literally Lange’s entry-level piece with a sub-USD20,000 price tag. It’s probably gone up a fair bit now after years of incremental price adjustments but it’s still going to be the best value Lange one can buy given that the brand doesn’t drop its craftsmanship standards for even its most basic pieces.
On the other hand, if money is no object, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription, announced earlier this year should be considered. Like the other two watches mentioned here, the Extra Plat Souscription is modest in size, measuring only 38.5mm x 35.5mm x 7.7mm. Despite being uncomplicated, the watch is a feast for the eyes, adorned with a decadent dial and a sensuous double elliptical case. At CHF45,000, it is the most extravagant of the three pieces – understandable given that it is the most nuanced of the lot and also the rarest (20-piece limited edition).
Final Thoughts
The new 1815 sees a case size reduction by Lange so dramatic it makes similar efforts by other manufacturers on their watches look half-hearted. The 1815 wasn’t bad at all when it measured 38.5mm prior to 2025, but at 34mm it has traded some physical presence for a more assured identity. Paradoxically, the model is going to stand out more than ever now because of its niche sizing. But will the market see that less is more? It’s going to be a gamble but I will be rooting for its success. Sub-40mm watches deserve much more love than it is currently receiving.
