We carried the release with our commentary on the new Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition last week, and today, we follow this up with a comprehensive review of the watch, with our high resolution photographs.
Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition Review: Detailed Watch Analysis
The Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition Ref. 1535 has a retail price of SGD 48,800 inclusive of GST. Limited Edition of 38 pieces.
The case, dial and hands
The Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is special edition variant of the popular Antarctique 38.5mm collection. This Antarctique series have achieved much success for Czapek. We reported and gave our views of the collection at its launch in 2020: the Terre Adélie. And we have been constantly impressed with each new iteration of the collection. The launch model started off with a 40.5mm case, and a 38.5mm case size was added to the collection in 2022, identified as S…presumably for “small”.
This Edition for the Sincere Platinum Jubilee is based on the “Goldilocks” sized 38.5mm model. What is interesting is that the case is now in bi-metal in yellow gold and stainless steel. This is a first time that we have Czapek use two metals in one watch. And though we are not normally excited to see a two tone watch, this Antarctique S Mirrored edition takes our breath away. The gold touches are restrained and tastefully done. Just enough to highlight the watch and bring up the aesthetics, as the gold is being limited only to the bezel, crown guards and on the U-shaped links of the bracelet.
But what really makes this watch special is the dial. The dial is constructed using a silicon wafer coated with a vapour deposit of platinum. This platinum deposit creates a perfect front surfaced mirror. As mentioned, the surface is very fragile, easily marred, which will affect the ability for a perfect reflection. But in the application as a watch dial, this is the perfect use case. The surface is protected and sealed in place by the bezel and sapphire glass. And as it stands, and can be seen in our photographs, this is a perfect mirror surface.
The mirror is encircled by a minute chapter ring, with protruding hour markers. The markers are dagger shaped, with faceted sides and infilled with lume. The hands are large lance style complemented by the long, red tipped center seconds hand. The facets on the indices and hands are mirror polished to match the dial. The overall look is very elegant. Very discreet, yet able to command attention. The minimalist style is so expressive in its own inner beauty. Here we see the brilliance of the design to frame the dial with a yellow gold bezel, providing contrast and focus the eye to the mostly monotone dial.
The movement
The movement is the time and tested SXH5 caliber. This is a brilliantly designed and executed movement conceived and made in-house and originally launched in 2020. Many improvements made later that same year with the launch of the Passage de Drake line. These include a larger platinum rotor with upgraded ball bearings. Czapek also tells us that the movement plate improved in German Silver.
And of course, the common theme of the Sincere Platinum Jubilee commemorative logo is transferred on the sapphire case back as a hint of this special occasion. Subtle, but a very nice mark to denote the anniversary and the limited edition.
Competitive landscape
In looking around the landscape for similar watches, we see the use of high tech silicon wafer in dials in perhaps two interesting watches. First to the post with the use of a wafer dial is Hermès with their Cape Cod crépuscule. As usual, Hermès does what Hermès does, and the watch dial carries an abstract motif of a dusk on the ocean by Vietnamese graphic artist Thanh-Phong Lê. And the second is by Louis Moinet, who also attempted using wafers in their dial. The Astronef Techno uses multi-colour bits taken almost directly from electronic industry where the elements catching light to make sparkling reflections in many colours. Both Hermès and Louis Moinet have adapted this wafer technology in their own style. And the same for this Czapek. As a maison with a more classical and elegant demeanour, the Czapek is more minimalist.
Perhaps one other mirror dial deserves at least a passing mention. This is the Grail Watch Sartory Billard SB07 “Ghost”. The dial achieves the mirror look not by use of wafer technology, but by polishing. So not quite an apples to apples comparison.
Concluding thoughts
This is a remarkably beautiful watch. The design is masterful. The two tone design does enhance the mirrored surface of the dial. As does the 3 dimensional chapter ring with its high polish faceted indices and hands. All the design elements come together to make an superbly elegant timepiece.
The 38.5mm case size is almost a perfect fit for most wrists, and will be comfortable for both men and women. And the under SGD 50k price is a good effort by Czapek and Sincere to keep this 38 piece limited edition to fairly reasonable levels. So overall, the Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition gets a high recommendation from us.
