Since its introduction back in 2013, the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar has become one of the defining timepieces for JLC apart from the Reverso collection. The aesthetics and mechanical purity of the watch has attracted a fair share of collectors and devotees alike.
This year we see a new interpretation of the collection in the form of new colours; a silver dial for boutique edition and the black, sunray-brushed dial design which is being featured here. On first look, it bears striking resemblance to its predecessor and this is due to the fact that only subtle changes were being made to this edition. For most parts of the watch, they are exactly similar to the 2013 release except for changes to the dial and the design of the movement.
Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar
Case, Dial and Hands
One of the differentiating points for the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar is the thin profile it possesses, measuring at a mere 9.2 mm in thickness, this makes it perhaps one of the thinnest perpetual calendars on the market. The streamlined lugs and sleek design of the bezel gives it an elegant look and class and this coupled with a stainless steel case that measures at 39 mm, makes this an ideal dress watch for collectors.
Similar to its predecessor, this model also features a single corrector located on the side of the case to allow for any adjustments to be made to the indications on the dial. It operates with a simple principle where one press would move the perpetual calendar one day forward, while any other changes required to keep step with the Gregorian calendar would happen automatically. One of the awesome features of the movement is its ability to take into account leap years and does not require any manual adjustment from the user before the year 2100.
The dial and hands are well-designed and complements each other perfectly. The polished rhodium-finish hands and hour markers matches well with the colour of the dial and gives it a discreet but elegant look to it.
The Movement: JLC C.868
The 2016 edition of the JLC Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar is powered by the mechanical automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868 which is the same movement used in the 2013 release.
The movement operates at 28,800 vph and comprises of a total of 336 parts which is a remarkable feat given the fact that the dimension of the watch measures only at a thin 9.2 mm thus the need for a compact design in order for it to be housed within the timepiece.
The movement has a 38 hours power reserve which is reasonable and looking closer at the movement, we can see a skeletonised rotor with its oscillating mass in gold which allows for a clearer view of the movement. In addition, the Côtes de Genève finish on the movement completes the look of pure excellence.
It is of no surprise that the new release of the JLC Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar attracted a lot of attention given the great reviews the 2013 edition received when it was released.
On first look, we honestly couldn’t tell the difference between the new and previous models, the only difference was the colour of the dial and design of the movement. There’s an old saying, “If it ain’t broke, why fix? and true to that, we am not surprised that the brand has chosen to only make minimal changes or revision to this collection thus allowing it to retain its classic look. On the whole, this watch is reasonably priced and definitely value for money given that other perpetual calendars in stainless steel can probably cost you 2-3 times of the listed price.