After a long hiatus, we have decided to put up another installment of the “Oldies But Goodies” series, where we bring back some of the finest timepieces from the yesteryear.
Similar to the past articles, we have no specific criteria when it comes to the selection of the watches. As usual, we will be looking at some of the more significant and interesting watches that have since been discontinued.
Now, without much further ado, here are the six watches that we have selected today.
A. Lange & Söhne Langematik
We begin the article with a classic from A. Lange & Söhne – cue the enigmatic and classy Langematik.
First launched in 1997, the Langematik is the first timepiece from A. Lange & Söhne that features a self-winding movement. The Glashütte-based brand did not just stop there – as the movement also features a seconds hand that has a zero reset function when the crown is pulled.
There is just something sophisticated and understated about this particular A. Lange & Söhne timepiece. It may not have the quirky dial layout of the Lange 1, nor the bewitching digital display of the Zeitwerk, but the Langematik can easily stand on its two feet with its beautiful looks and ease of use. This is something that many collectors do appreciate.
The 37mm Langematik may not necessarily be the first watch that comes to mind, when one thinks of the German watch manufacturer. But in all honesty, this is an often-overlooked timepiece which we reckon deserves a lot more love than it is currently receiving.
Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph 220th Anniversary Model
Speaking of being underrated, Girard-Perregaux is perhaps another timepiece that definitely fits the description.
Despite having several iconic watch collections, Girard-Perregaux is not getting the sort of recognition that it deserves (except with the Laureato, in the last couple of years). It is a shame, considering that the brand had produced some exceptional timepieces. One of them is the 1966 Chronograph 220th Anniversary Model, which is a 40mm chronograph with a classic bi-compax dial. We love its design, as well as the stunning blue dial. Coupled with a column-wheel chronograph movement, it pretty ticks all the right boxes for an enthusiast.
There are many hidden gems in the secondary market, and for someone who is looking for a timepiece that is relatively value for money, we think Girard-Perregaux might just be a good place to start.
Piaget Polo
The next watch we have might be polarising, but there is no denying that the original Piaget Polo is an iconic timepiece in its own right.
Introduced in 1979, the Polo was meant to be a statement piece. Yves Piaget envisaged the timepiece to be a “watch bracelet”, which explains the design language and how the entire case, dial, and bracelet integrates seamlessly with each other. The gadroons – in the form of polished reeds – forms the key design element of the Polo; it also juxtaposes nicely with the alternating brushed surfaces in between.
The Polo is a shining example of the 1980s excess. It is somewhat ostentatious, and it certainly makes a strong statement on the wrist. However, there is no doubt that this is an extremely cool timepiece, although admittedly it is a watch that very few individuals can pull off effortlessly.
Vacheron Constantin Saltarello Jump Hour
Vacheron Constantin is known to have an incredible archive of stunning timepieces produced throughout its storied history, and the Saltarello Jump Hour is an example of that.
The 36mm timepiece, which was introduced in 1997, features a rather interesting take with a jump hour display and a retrograde minutes hand. The unusual cushion-shaped case and flared lugs, coupled with a ribbed sunburst guilloché dial, also adds to the appeal of this special watch.
There is just something alluring about these old timepieces from Vacheron Constantin. While the Saltarello might just be a limited edition run of 500 pieces, there is certainly no doubt that this timepiece has a significant place in the history books of the Geneva-based manufacturer.
IWC Pilot Mark XII/XV
Picture above is courtesy of Deployant Friend Eddie Sng.
The IWC Pilot Mark series was reintroduced in 1993 – with the Mark XII. This was on the back of the legendary Mark XI, which was a pilot’s watch that was designed specifically for the British Royal Air Force.
The Mark XV, which succeeded the Mark XII in 1999, also shares similar aesthetics – but the key difference is that the Mark XII features a movement that was powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 889/2, while the succeeding model was fitted with a modified version of the ETA-2892 movement instead. While collectors tend to have a preference for the Mark XII due to the special JLC movement that was fitted, there is also a growing number of collectors who are gravitating towards the Mark XV as the ETA-based movement is easier to maintain (and touted to be more reliable vis-à-vis the JLC movement).
What we particularly like about these older Mark series of watches is its design and aesthetics. The case size of 36mm and 38mm for the Mark XII and Mark XV is excellent especially for collectors with smaller wrists, and the dial elements also appear to be more balanced too (as compared to the newer models). There is just something about these older IWCs, and we do believe this is an excellent option (especially the Mark XV) for collectors who are looking for a reasonably priced luxury timepiece.
Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie
We round up the article with a masterpiece from the legend, Philippe Dufour. Cue the sublime and magnificent Grande Sonnerie.
While it can be said that any timepieces from Philippe Dufour can be easily categorised as a “grail watch”, the Grande Sonnerie is on a whole new level altogether. It is rumoured that Philippe Dufour had produced only eight or nine examples of the Grande Sonnerie, since its introduction in 1992. Besides its stunning looks and incredible finishing, the Grande Sonnerie is also horologically significant for one reason – it is the first wristwatch to incorporate the grande et petite sonnerie complication, housed in a 39mm case.
This particular version – as seen in the picture above – is a piece unique that features a white gold case and sapphire crystal dial. The latter allows for the owner to view the stunning striking mechanism from the dial side, as well as to enjoy the exquisite finishing that Philippe Dufour had employed. The Grande Sonnerie is perhaps the pinnacle of haute horlogerie, and we think many collectors share the same sentiment too.
Concluding Thoughts
We have a wide selection of watches today, from the humble IWC Mark XII/XV, to the extraordinary Grande Sonnerie from Philippe Dufour. Each of them has a common denominator: they are all excellent timepieces in their own right.
It is difficult to choose our favourite timepieces from today’s selection. Nonetheless, we would also like to highlight that buying such watches may not be necessarily inaccessible (relatively speaking), as icons such as the superb IWC Mark XV can be purchased at a reasonable price point (below S$5,000). Of course, the same cannot be applied indiscriminately across the watch universe.
Finally, we hope that you have enjoyed our article this week. Do let us know your thoughts on our selection, as well as the watches that should be considered in this list. Till the next piece, ciao!
