We had a preview of the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold when we bumped into Penelope Gudej, LV’s International Watch Press Manager for Louis Vuitton, Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth and got a quick hands on.
Here is our impressions in italics and the Press Release information. Photographs with the Deployant watermark are original photographs taken by us.
New with hands-on: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Ref: DBBD01A1 will retail at CHF 49,000 with VAT.
Hands-on Commentary
This new release is the follow-up to the Souscription series of the Extra Flat by Daniel Roth launched in January this year. The watch remains the same, with the case and dial proportions respecting the original watch released in 1990. The dial now sports a two tone grey guilloché ligne (pinstripe guilloché) with the chapter ring carrying the roman hour markers in 5N rose gold. The dial remains to be constructed from a solid white gold base.
The case is in 5N rose gold, and carries the same design as the 2025 Souscription, which itself has undergone a modest redesign of the lugs to offer softer curves and a downward angle for a more comfortable fit. And it certainly feels nice on my wrist, but also looks amazing on Penelope’s much more petite and feminine wrist.
The Calibre DR002, which was new with the 2025 Souscription watch, remains unchanged for this general release. And looks magnificent under the sapphire case back. As with the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Flat Souscription had a closed case back.
Release details
THE BRAND REVIVAL CONTINUES WITH THE EXTRA PLAT ROSE GOLD
Echoing the beginning of the brand in the 1990s and on the heels of the most recent launch, the new DANIEL ROTH Extra Plat Rose Gold builds on Mr. Roth’s legacy of tradition and High Watchmaking. As with the Extra Plat Souscription, the Extra Plat Rose Gold is powered by the new calibre DR002, developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.
The idea of an ultra-thin dress watch was a favourite of Mr. Roth. While the Master Watchmaker already had the silhouette of the original model in mind in the 1980s, the first Extra Plat Automatic watch would not see the light of day until 1990, a year after the launch of the Tourbillon C187.
While honouring the original design, the rose gold 5N case retains the iconic double-ellipse silhouette with a centred gadroon for a balanced profile. Its redesigned lugs feature softer curves and a downward angle to ensure a more comfortable fit.
THE WATCH
Aligning with the tradition of the DANIEL ROTH signature double-ellipse case, the Extra Plat Rose Gold case has been magnified with a reduced thickness of 7.7mm, further enhancing its exquisite profile. Maintaining the design principles inaugurated with the Tourbillon Rose Gold, the Extra Plat is made in rose gold 5N and features an open caseback. It showcases a two-tone dial, with a base crafted from solid white gold and a rose gold 5N chapter ring for the hours and minutes.
The dial is elegantly decorated with handcrafted “guillochage en ligne,” or pinstripes guilloché. This warm and modern tone of the 5N alloy enhances the watch’s refined elegance, seamlessly bridging traditional craftsmanship with contemporary sophistication.
“Rose gold is a luminous and captivating precious metal, offering a contemporary allure while remaining deeply rooted in classical watchmaking” says Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of DANIEL ROTH.
The Extra Plat Rose Gold shares the exact dimensions as the Extra Plat Souscription, with a case width of 35.5mm and a length of 38.6mm. Additionally, the open caseback allows the exceptional finishings of the calibre DR002 to be admired.
The case is assembled according to traditional horological methods. Each lug is made as a separate piece, then carefully hand-soldered to the case, one by one. The hands on the dial are finished in black-coated stainless steel, complementing the black Roman numerals and individual watch number.
THE CALIBRE DR002
Designed to pay tribute to Mr. Roth and the tradition of Swiss Haute Horlogerie, the DR002 movement was created by Master Watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. While retaining the distinctive visual style of the DR001 Tourbillon calibre, the DR002 has explicitly been developed from the ground up for the Extra Plat Collection and will serve as a base movement for future complications.
EXCEPTIONAL FINISHINGS IN EVERY COMPONENT
The form movement mirrors the double-ellipse shape of the case, unveiling a unique design that does not compromise on the craftsmanship. The calibre DR002 features classic influences with large wheels to take the entire available space and the flowing lines of its bridges with hand-polished bevels.
AN ALL-NEW CALIBRE
“We have always adhered to traditional watchmaking principles, ensuring every detail is meticulously crafted. The calibre DR002 is a testament to this commitment and embodies the essence of Haute Horlogerie,” says Michel Navas.
Determined to stay true to Mr. Roth’s approach, “With a deep respect for Daniel’s vision, we designed the calibre DR002 with the goal of maintaining exceptional quality while integrating modern advancements,” adds Enrico Barbasini.
While the movement exudes classic elegance, its technical sophistication is equally remarkable. For instance, the 4 Hz balance wheel is free-sprung with four arms, each featuring a variable inertia weight for fine regulation—ensuring exceptional and stable timekeeping over extended periods. The large single mainspring also offers an impressive 65-hour power reserve, providing a practical three-day or weekend running time.
Great care was taken to ensure the DR002’s aesthetic appeal and enhance its tactile experience. For example, the winding bar click, handcrafted as a single piece, not only adds to the visual beauty of the movement but also contributes to the satisfying, precise feel when winding the movement. The captivating beauty of the calibre DR002 is highlighted by the open caseback, showcasing its refined decoration and traditional construction .
More than a watch, the DANIEL ROTH Extra Plat Rose Gold is a tribute to traditional Swiss High Watchmaking.
DANIEL ROTH Extra Plat Rose Gold TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Reference: DBBD01A1
CASE Case material: Rose Gold 5N * Case dimensions: 38.6 x 35.5mm * Case thickness: 7.70mm * Flat anti-reflection sapphire crystal * Sapphire crystal caseback
WATER RESISTANCE 30m
LUGS WIDTH 20mm
DIAL Rose Gold 5N chapter ring and White Gold base with pinstripes guilloché pattern * Black font * Hands: Stainless steel with black coating
STRAP MATERIAL Calfskin leather
DR002 CALIBRE Manufacture manual winding developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini * Power reserve-frequency: 65h – 4Hz * Dimensions: 31 x 28mm * Thickness: 3.1mm * Components – Jewels: 143 – 21
